Fantastic Fall 2016 Apparel

August 10, 2016, 4:11 pm

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It’s pretty hard to get me excited about new gear, but a few best-in-class products just became available. They are the cream of the crop. The best in the world. If you have lots of money for the best winter gear, consider these.

Down Parkas 
The down parka is my favorite type of clothing. When it’s frigid and you’re exhausted, a great one can make the difference between a sufferfest and a relatively pleasant time. Unfortunately, building great ones requires sophisticated design (a box-baffled parka is likely the most complex piece of clothing we wear), access to the best materials, and laborious construction. Cottage industry companies like Feathered Friends, Western Mountaineering, Valandre, PhD Deigns, etc. don’t have the resources to craft the finest. The two best down parkas are now:

Patagonia Grade VII
This improves the already phenomenal Encapsil Parka. It’s warmer (longer and with more down), more weather resistant (welded seams on the shoulders and chest), has better features (two interior stash pockets, two chest pockets, and a superb hood with a high collar). I’m confident this is the best all-purpose down parka on the planet. 25 oz. $899.

Arcteryx Firebee AR
Hydrophobia has long permeated Arcteryx's apparel line. They recently released the most weather resistant down parka on the planet. It has a seam-taped 30D Gore Thermium shell with a hung down-filled liner. This is the only good synthetic parka substitute available today (the Crux eVent parkas have terrible hoods and other features). Though it's not likely to come close to providing the same warmth as the Grade VII, it will be a lot better for expeditions that cross multiple climates, such as ski mountaineering trips across a variety of elevations. Will the increased durability compared to synthetic parkas make the $950 investment worthwhile?  Quite possibly. The Patagonia DAS, the best value synthetic parka, costs $300 and likely lasts for two seasons of hard use. With its tougher fabrics and super durable down, the Firebee might offer greater performance and long-term value—if you’re a mountain guide, do lots of winter expeditions, or just want the most stormproof down parka. 24 oz.

Active Insulation
Detailed reviews for these jackets are coming soon via BackpackingLight.com.

Patagonia Nano Air Light
This is the best active insulation jacket for ultralight winter travel and alpine climbing. It’s less warm, far more breathable and more durable than the original Nano Air Hoody. If I were to have one active insulation jacket, I’d choose this one. Patagonia also released Nano Air Light pants, which might be revolutionary. Seriously, Colin Haley, a Patagonia climbing ambassador, wore only the Nano Air Light pants and the DAS pants for his epic Infinite Spur solo. In cold environs, it appears they're all we need, which could save a lot of weight.

Using the Nano Air Light (orange) on a mountaineering traverse in late June, Chugach mountains, Alaska

Arcteryx Proton LT Hoody
The new best all-purpose active insulation piece and the first to use a continuous filament insulation, which Arcteryx spent many years developing. Compared to the Nano Air Light it’s more durable, slightly warmer, slightly heavier, and has handwarmer pockets. The extra durability, both in the face fabric and insulation, is especially good for alpine rock climbers and people who are going to use it around town.

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Best Wool Baselayer Shirt: Patagonia Merino Air Review

August 14, 2016, 5:42 pm

≫ Next: The Best Ultralight Four-Season Sleeping Bag: Feathered Friends Spoonbill Review

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Overview

The Patagonia Merino Air is the best wool baselayer on the market. I’ve owned competing models from Ibex, Rab, Arcteryx, and Patagonia, and the Merino Air is warmer for its weight, more breathable, dries faster, looks better, and feels a lot more comfortable after you’ve been wearing it for a month! Overall, the Merino Air Hoody is my favorite cold weather baselayer.

If you want the best value baselayer, polyester is cheaper, doesn’t absorb water, and is more durable. The Patagonia Capilene Thermal Hoody is the gold standard here. If I were to have one long sleeve baselayer, I’d choose durability and versatility over comfort, and opt for the Thermal Hoody, which I’ve used various versions of for many years.

PROS:Most comfortable baselayer ever, highly breathable and warm, longer length tucks into pants well, looks like a finely crafted sweater.

CONS: Expensive, not as durable or as warm when wet as polyester, hood eventually stretches such that it won’t cover your face.

BEST APPLICATIONS: Cold weather anything, international travel, road trips, smelling less bad, feeling cleaner.

KEY STATS

$149, available only from Patagonia

7.2 oz. in men’s medium

High-loft, seamless construction

51% sustainably-sourced wool, 49% 100%-recycled polyester

Max in the Merino Air Hoody, Brooks Range, Alaska

What’s the best baselayer t-shirt?

I’ve found it’s not worth buying lightweight wool baselayers because they wear out too fast. I’m not sure what the best lightweight polyester baselayer is because I’ve never felt a need to experiment. My Silkweight Capilene t-shirt and longsleeve are going strong after 13 years. Though I’m tempted by Arcteryx, I’ll likely replace them with the same when they wear out.

If you’re interested in the most comfortable longsleeve baselayer, read on for more info about the Merino Air.

TESTING AND ANALYSIS

I own and highly recommend the hooded version.

Comfort

I wore the Patagonia Merino Air for 36 consecutive days hiking and paddling last summer and on a two-week climbing and skiing expedition this spring. After extended periods like these, it feels much less grungy and gross than any other shirt I’ve tried. This anti-stink, anti-nasty is really nice. I feel cleaner.

Patagonia builds the shirt using a 3D knitting machine that leave no seams! It’s the only ‘engineered’ shirt I’ve ever used. This not only looks better, it feels more comfortable--both by reducing pressure points and generally. The Merino Air stretches such that it feels ‘one with your body.’ Much to Sarah’s disliking, I praised the shirt far too frequently for the first week of our 36-day trip. She loves it, too, and plans to get one when her Rab Meco wears out.

The Merino Air material is twice or more times thicker than the average wool baselayer, which makes it a lot warmer when worn under layers that trap the air, such as a shell. At the same time, there’s a lot of space between the individual threads so heat and moisture vapor can escape. This increases the temperature range you can use it in. However, it’s too warm to bring as your only shirt for most three-season trips. I usually bring a t-shit and, depending on the climate, the Merino Air or the Capilene Thermal Hoody.

Debating whether or not to paddle this 100 miles and try to fly home with it--while wearing the Merino Air baselayer

Durability

After about three-weeks of use, I noticed the hood was no longer returning to its original balaclava shape. This is disappointing, but the nature of wool makes it unrealistic for Patagonia to build the hood balaclava style. The vast majority of time, even in cold winter, I want to wear a hood up and have my mouth uncovered. Now, the bottom of the hood rests under my chin, like most hooded baselayers.

After at least 60 days with a backpack on, including a good number of days with a 40+ lb pack, I’ve noticed some wear in the shoulders. They’ve become a bit thinner. I guess they’re perhaps half way worn out. This puts the Merino Air in the upper end of wool baselayer durability. The lightweight models I’ve used wear out very fast--they get completely shredded.

The Merino Air is phenomal for winter.

Warmth

It’s roughly as warm as a thin sweater. With a light breeze, though, I’ve worn it in the 60’s while humping a heavy pack uphill.

Patagonia says the wool for each shirt is treated using an “innovative air-jet process” that creates yarn of higher loft and insulation value. Then they use computerized knitting machine to combine the wool and recycled polyester.

Floating back to Talkeetna, Alaska after skiing.

The Merino Air's breathability is great for high-output activities.

Style

The shirt looks fantastic, like a finely crafted sweater. I’ve worn it on a few long road trips and it looks good around town.  This would be my top choice for a shirt for international travel--I’d get it in black without a hood. The handsome aesthetics are a cherry on top of the premium performance.

Sustainability

Patagonia has invested in sustainable grasslands in southern Chile and Argentina, where sheep provide wool for their baselayers. This is a unique benefit to buying from Patagonia--grazing is done with the least possible impact and the animals are treated well. Polyester makes up the other 49% of the Merino Air and this comes from recycled products. Also, since it’s knit in one go, there’s much less waste than normal chop-and-sew garments. Thus, I suspect their wool baselayers have the lowest environmental impact in the industry.  

Sarah added new insulation to my 14-year-old Carhart jacket! (And I'm wearing the Merino Air.)  Lincoln, Nebraska.

Weekend cabin trip with the Merino Air Hoody.

Trying to ski with way too much gear, while wearing the Merino Air.

Value

How much do you value comfort and anti-stink?

In 2006, I did a three-month National Outdoor Leadership School expedition in Patagonia. After one month, we smelled terrible. By day 90, our clothing (polyester baselayers) smelled and felt disgusting. How I wish we were all wearing Merino Air tops and bottom!

This is the Ferrari of baselayers. It exceeded my expectations. If you have the cash for the best, I think it will exceed your expectations. For the best value, opt for the Capilene Thermal or, for the truly best value, grab something from the thrift store.

Where to Buy It

Like many of their highest performance products, Patagonia only sells the Merino Air on their website.

After a long day of hiking.

The Best Ultralight Four-Season Sleeping Bag: Feathered Friends Spoonbill Review

August 15, 2016, 5:19 pm

≫ Next: Gear List for a Denali Mountaineering Expedition

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I have tested at least 60 different sleeping bags, including six Feathered Friends bags, watched the Spoonbill in production at Feathered Friends’ Seattle factory, and feel it’s their best product. If you’re serious about saving weight for colder weather backcountry trips, the Spoonbill is an essential purchase. Next to another person, and with the right clothing, the bag can be used in the coldest winter conditions. Compared to bringing two warm winter bags, it can save four pounds! Since 2012, my Spoonbill has been used on trips of all types by ten people. The best test was in 2014 when Zeb and I used it at 17,700 ft on the third night of climbing Denali’s Cassin Ridge. I’ve also used it on Mt. Huntington’s Harvard Route, a climb-ski-packraft trip out of the Alaska Range, and on a lot of shorter hiking and skiing trips in Alaska and the lower 48. This is one of my alltime favorite pieces of outdoor gear.

WHAT’S THE BEST TWO-PERSON BAG FOR YOUR NEEDS?

I’m fortunate to own the three best two-person bags on the market.

Car camping: Feathered Friends Penguin and groundsheet, no hoods, size long. 64.5 oz.

Summer: ZPacks Twin Quilt, extra long. 36.2 oz

Colder weather: Feathered Friends Spoonbill UL, size regular. 41 oz.

FEATHERED FRIENDS SPOONBILL REVIEW

PROS: Super light, incredibly warm and compact.

CONS: Top hood adjustment can be uncomfortable when pulled tight, burly zippers add unnecessarily weight.

BEST APPLICATIONS: Colder weather backpacking, climbing, skiing, hut trips, etc.

KEY STATS:

Available in two fabric options (see Versions at the bottom)

$750-$840

41 oz. - 45 oz.

Credit: Feathered Friends

Motivation for this review

This review is an update to the one I wrote in 2013 for outdoorgearlab, which hasn’t been revised in three years. I’m adding my long-term experience below. If you find this review useful, and click through to make a purchase, I’ll receive a small portion of the sale. Since it will likely take you a while to save up for the bag, or decide to get it, would you swing back here and click through to Feathered Friends site? That would help me fund future trips and the many hours spent writing thoughtful reviews. Thank you :)

What’s sleeping in a bag with another person like?

I’ve spent about 60 nights with five different people in four different double bags. If you’re snuggling with your sweetie, it’s much more comfortable than being in your own bags. If you’re with another sweaty dude, it’s not as nice, but you’re both warmer and better off by saving weight. The good thing about the Spoonbill is it’s wide enough for two 170 ish lb. guys to lay on their backs with only their shoulders touching. More on comfort below.

History

The sleeping bag is one of heaviest items we carry and we often travel into the backcountry with other people. For a long time, both for backpacking and high altitude mountaineering, people would share a single bag, which crams your feet together and doesn’t cover both of your shoulders. Other companies make two-person quilts for warm weather. But when it gets cold, what’s the best way to seal the gap between two people’s shoulders and necks? Colin Haley, a Patagonia climbing Ambassador who grew up in Washington state, helped Feathered Friends with the original prototypes. Since it’s release, the Spoonbill hasn’t changed at all. They nailed it.

Zeb Engberg prepares to climb into the Feathered Friends Spoonbill, Cassin Ridge, Denali

TESTING AND ANALYSIS

Warmth

The Spoonbill works well for everything from casual backpacking to the world’s most serious alpine climbs. Mine has been used car camping in the Utah desert, winter hiking in New Hampshire, the climbs I mentioned earlier, and on a casual overnight hut trips in Alaska.

The key feature that differentiates the Spoonbill from other double bags (from ZPacks, Nunatak, Enlightened Equipment,and even the Feathered Friends Penguin) is the hood and and neck baffle design. Sealing your head, neck, and shoulders is what makes it suitable for cold weather use. Brent Zwiers, Feathered Friends’ former production manager who helped design the bag, told me the hardest part was figuring out how to arrange the hood closures such that when one person adjusts theirs, it doesn’t jostle or close the other person’s.

Two half-length zippers on the sides release heat on warmer nights. I guess it’s too warm for use above 50 degrees. Thus, it works great for summer use in higher elevations throughout the West.

The night at 17,700 ft. on Denali was the coldest I’ve used the Spoonbill. We were deeply exhausted from three days of climbing in bad conditions and despite wearing insulated pants and parkas, we were chilly. But can you ask for a better testament to the bag’s ability to work in very challenging, frigid conditions?

Though I’ve only done it a couple times, the warmest way to use the bag is to spoon with the other person and tuck the top edges of bag underneath your bodies. This eliminates dead air space--it’s toasty warm.

Sleeping Pad Straps

Like all ultralight sleeping bags, the Spoonbill doesn’t have insulation on the bottom. If it’s cold winter and you’re sleeping on snow, it’s important to have a warm sleeping pad. The Therm-a-Rest Neo Air Xtherm is the best available and the XLite works fine for occasional winter use. I’ve used the bag with and without sleeping pad attachments. Unless what I’m doing is very challenging for me, and every gram counts, I bring three ZPacks pad attachments to secure our pads. This creates a very comfortable mattress for two people and it keeps us warmer by sealing the gap between the bottom of our two pads (NeoAirs have a tapered shape).

In the Spoonbill at 17,700 ft on Denali's Cassin Ridge

Weight and Packed Size

The size Regular Spoonbill UL weighs 41 oz. on my scale. If it wasn’t already obvious, the bag has a FANTASTIC WARMTH TO WEIGHT RATIO!

An excellent one-person bag capable of being used in the same conditions, e.g. the Feathered Friends Widgeon -10, weighs 52 oz. Thus, compared to bringing two bags, the Spoonbill saves two people almost four pounds!

The Spoonbill packs down to the size of an expedition down parka. This saves a lot of space in your packs. It has allowed me and various adventure partners to use smaller packs, which are more comfortable and weigh less.

Feathered Friends uses burly #5 zippers for the Spoonbill. These are so tough they stand the test of time on tents, where they’re exposed to high stress, sand, and ice. There’s no need for them on a bag like this. I think they should switch to a lighter #3 zipper.

Would a two-person quilt be better for you?

Many two-person quilts weigh less than the Spoonbill, but none come close to being as warm. I own the 10-degree ZPacks Twin Quilt and have used it in, quite unsuccessfully,on one winter trip in Utah (temperatures in the low 20’s F). Since a lot of cold air comes in at the shoulders and neck, and there’s no hood, we both brought parkas and wore warm hooded mid-layers (like the old (warmer) version of the Patagonia R3 Hoody)). If we were in the Spoonbill, we would have saved close to two pounds by bringing lightweight down sweaters and a light fleece shirt. Another, perhaps more significant, problem with super light quilts is their fabric, which isn’t as water resistant as the Spoonbill’s. On that Utah trip the ZPacks Twin Quilt lost so much loft that by the fourth day we decided to bail--getting up at 4 AM for a 25-mile slog out :)--because the bag was soaking wet and wouldn’t keep us warm for another night. Thus, you can get by with a super light two-person quilt for a night or two in winter, but you’ll carry a lot more weight in clothing and, depending on your tent setup, the bag might lose loft quickly. The Spoonbill UL’s fabric has a light polyurethane coating on the inside that provides some water resistance. The super light fabric ZPacks uses, on the other hand, has no water resistant coating.

The Feathered Friends Spoonbill at The Nose bivy, Harvard Route, Mt. Huntington, Alaska.

Comfort

The Spoonbill gives two people plenty of space. This is essential when you have four boot liners, four water bottles, gloves, and cameras inside. I think the size and shape are excellent. I’d be tempted to make the footbox smaller, but it’d be too small for the nights when you need to put boot liners inside.

Both people have hood and neck baffle closures. For maximum warmth, snap the closure above the zipper and then on the neck baffle. These snap closures are great--much better than the velcro that Western Mountaineering uses on their bags.

The only thing I’d change is the design of the top hood cord. This should be moved farther back on the hood such that down cushions you face when it’s pulled tight. This is minor drawback, but I’d like it if Feathered Friends addressed it.

Versatility

If I were to have one two-person bag, I’d choose the Spoonbill. I think it’s performance in colder temperatures make the 5 oz. weight penalty, compared to the ZPacks Twin Quilt, worthwhile. If a night is too warm for the bag, we stick our feet out or use it as a quilt. Though I’m privileged to own a fleet of sleeping bags and don’t use the Spoonbill in in the summer, I’ve seen a lot of people use who use it as their go-to backpacking bag.

The Spoonbill is great for trips to backcountry huts and cabins. This one is in the Chugach mountains outside of Anchorage.

Playing games in the cabin with the Spoonbill behind.

Durability

Why does Feathered Friends have a cult following? Because they build great products with above-average durability.Their parkas, for example, have some of the toughest fabrics on the market (with massively tough reinforcements to boot). The Spoonbill is made to be light, but they could save even more weight with less durable fabrics and lighter and shorter zippers. I’m confident the bag has above average durability for an ultralight bag. After lots of use, mine developed a tear in the hood, which I easily patched with a piece of Tyvek tape.

Value

A two-person sleeping bag is one of the most cost effective ways to save weight. Some people spend hundreds of dollars upgrading a new stove or a new jacket, only to save a few ounces. The Spoonbill saves pounds!! I think it’s a fantastic value.

Versions

Spoonbill Nano $750

This is Feathered Friends’ budget but still excellent fabric option. It uses a 20 denier by 20 denier 1.1 oz/yd nylon.I’ve used this fabric in three Feathered Friends sleeping bags and one jacket. Feathered Friends uses 900-fill down in this version.

Spoonbill UL  $840  saves 4 oz.

This uses an ultra premium 10 denier x 10 Pertex Endurance fabric and very pricey 950+ fill down. Is it worth spending $90 to save the weight of two energy bars?

Where to Buy It

Feathered Friends products are not carried by major online retailers. (This reduces the middleman and keeps prices a lot lower.) Get the Spoonbill straight from the source--their website.

Gear List for a Denali Mountaineering Expedition

August 16, 2016, 2:13 pm

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I recently wrote a 'synthetic insulated jacket state of the market report' for backpackinglight.com in which I chatted with a variety of backcountry pros including Patagonia ambassador Colin Haley. This project and several recently released apparel items motivated me to create a detailed gear list for Denali. I consider this to be the most up to date list of the best gear you can buy. Let me know if you have any questions or think another item might be better in a category.

If I were to do Cassin Ridge again, I'd take:

Pulling sleds on the Kahiltna glacier with Denali in the distance.

Clothing

Baselayer: Patagonia Merino Air top and bottoms or (for a better value) their Capilene Thermal Hoody and bottoms

Insulation: Patagonia Nano Air Light top and bottoms. Colin Haley used these on his recent Infinite Spur solo and the top is the best active insulation jacket I've use. If you're going in May, bring another warm mid-layer. I'd choose the Arcteryx Nuclei FL.

Shell Pants:Arcteryx Alpha SV Bib You could get by with pants with a lighter fabric, but these are the best winter climbing and skiing pants I've ever used. I love them, especially the durability, the ventilation, and the chest pockets. The next best option looks to be the newly released Patagonia Galvanized Pant, which is an updated and much improved version of their (discontinued) Knifeblade pant.

Shell Jacket: Patagonia M10 Anorak or, if you want decade-long durability, Arcteryx Alpha FL

Insulated Pants: Patagonia DAS. Other companies make cheaper options, but Patagonia still uses the best and most water resistant fabric, while still keeping the pants lightweight.

Down Parka: Patagonia’s recently released Patagonia Grade VII is the best in the world. I also have the Patagonia Fitz Roy (half the price), have seen photos of others using that on Denali, and think it's the best value option. If you have a shorter torso, you might try the Feathered Friends Volant, which is warmer, more weather resistant, and more durable than the Fitz Roy, but its has no interior stash pockets.

Boots: La Sportiva Spantik. They're the time-tested winner for Denali and many routes in the Himalaya.

Gaiters: None need. Add elastic cord to the bottom of your pants.

Gloves:Arcteryx Beta. Leather absorbs too much water and freezes solid. This is the best I know of. It's also nice to bring a pair of lightweight fleece liner gloves for the lower glacier. Any basic model will do. The Arcteryx Venta looks excellent, is light, and has touchscreen compatible fingertips.

Mittens: Outdoor Research Alti-Mitt. I’ve only used these on Denali. For everything else, I bring the above mittens.

Balaclava: My favorite is the Patagonia Capilene Thermal Balaclava. I also own the Outdoor Research Sonic, which is warmer (is has a Gore Windstopper membrane) but fogs up my goggles when I use the nose and mouth piece in very cold weather.

Sunglasses: The Julbo Trek with the Zebra lens have become my favorite because they’re photochromic and have big vents on the side that let moisture out before it freezes on the lens. These have been my only sunglasses for three years and they’re still going strong.

Poles: Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork. They do everything well. I’ve glued my cork grips a couple of time and replaced the tips after four years. If you do a lot of backcountry skiing, you’ll also want a solid shaft pole for increased durability--the Black Crows Furtis Pole might be the best.

Snowshoes: Skis are way better, but if you have to, go with the MSR Lightning Ascent.

I owned a pair in 2011 and 2012, toured the Cascade Designs factory where they’re built, and used them on Denali. They’re also the gearlab Editor’s Choice winner.

Big Backpack: I own three Hyperlite Mountain Gear packs, but could do everything with their 4400 Porter Pack, which is the most versatile larger pack on the market. It's much more comfortable for carrying heavy loads than CiloGear packs (I've used every Cilo Worksack, in all fabrics, up to the 60L). The downside is it doesn't climb technical routes well (it’s a big rectangular box) and the waistbelt can't come off. Nonetheless, for carrying heavier loads, it’s much more comfortable. I attach the Porter Stuff-It Pocket when backpacking. The Porter’s lack of dedicated ice tool attachment straps is made up for by the daisy chains--insert the pick into the bottom, facing out. On long approaches or bad bushwhacks I put ice tools inside the pack, which is only possible with the 4400 size. The 3400 size is better for climbing and most trips, but not large enough for expeditions, multi-sport trips, and hauling big loads up to a basecamp. Thus, I recommend the 4400 size.

Medium Pack: My favorite ‘overnight’ pack is the CiloGear 30:30 Worksack. I co-own the woven dyneema version with Chris Simrell, outdoorgearlab’s former alpine and mountaineering pack tester. This is large enough to haul decent loads and you can strip it down to work well on fast and light day trips. This is much better than the Arcteryx Alpha FL 45L (Chris and I toured Arcteryx and met with the Alpha FL’s designer, and used the pack on Mt. Huntington’s Harvard Route among other places) because it’s more versatile and more durable. The Alpha FL 45 has some nice features, like the taped seams and dry bag top closure, but overall the 30:30 is a lot better. Zeb used the non-woven dyneema Cilo 45L on Cassin, but the 30:30 is big enough. Use the framesheet and pad on the West Buttress and remove them for the technical climbing.

Duffel: A low profile duffel is much less likely to flip over in a sled than standard, taller duffels. Consequently, the supremely expensive (and probably the most durable duffel ever) Hyperlite Mountain Gear Expedition Duffel is the best option. I also own the North Face Basecamp, Arcteryx Carrier, and Patagonia Black Hole. If you aren't going to drop the cash on the Hyperlite, I suggest the Black Hole 120 L because the pockets and shape are best for general use.

We brought warm fleece jackets, but innovations in active insulation make those jackets warmer for their weight and more weather resistant. Shown here: 11,000 ft.

Camp

Basecamp Tent: All the guide services use the Mountain Hardwear Trango. However, the Hilleberg Nammatj 2 is the most versatile four-season tent. It's not as comfortable as a tent with two vestibules, but it's many pounds lighter and is the go-to for the biggest long-distance ski mountaineering trips in Alaska. After testing ~30 four-season tents, including most Hilleberg models, I chose to keep one--the Nammatj 2. I love it.

Cook Tent: Hyperlite Mountain Gear UltaMid 4 or, though nowhere near as good, the Black Diamond Mega Light is much cheaper.

Bivy Tent:Mountain Hardwear Direkt 2. I’ve used the two closest competitors (from Black Diamond and Crux), and the Direkt 2 is best. In 2017, MSR will release their Advance Pro 2, which looks faster to setup, likely has better poles, and--despite lacking ground level tieouts on the walls, might be better overall.

Basecamp Sleeping Bag: Feathered Friends Widgeon EX -10. Super toasty with excellent fabrics. You can save a bit of weight with a Western Mountaineering bag cut with their microfiber fabric, which isn’t waterproof. However, Conventional wisdom and decades of cold weather use suggest it's worth getting a more water resistant fabric.

On Route Sleeping Bag: Feathered Friends Spoonbill. I've used it since it was first released and there's nothing else like on the planet. A must for going fast and light in the winter.

Sleeping Pad:Therm-a-Rest Xtherm. Even today, nothing else provides this much comfort and warmth for so little weight. The bottom fabric is really tough so you can use it directly on the snow and ice.

Sleeping Pad Straps: If you use a double sleeping bag, the ZPacks pad straps make a world of difference. I think they're worth carrying.

Basecamp Stove: I've used the MSR XGK EX for all winter basecamp trips since 2011. It's the time-tested best expedition stove. Some people save a little bit of weight with the MSR Whisperlite.

On Route Stove: The MSR Reactor is absolutely incredible. Bring a tough tupperware or metal bowl to pour hot water into to keep the canister warm when melting snow.

Pot: Primus ETA 3.0 Liter. This has a heat exchanger, which saves fuel, and the nonstick is allows it to work for baking and as a fry pan. Pancakes are possible, too, just make them slightly smaller.

Shovel:Arva Snow Plume. This is really light and surprisingly durable. I've never done a comprehensive hands-on comparison of shovels, but my research in 2014 showed this was the best lightweight model. Now, I've used it over 50 days and have been very happy with it. The scoop’s corners are bent slightly from hitting ice, but it works fine.

Snow Saw: Bring one if you're sleeping at 17 camp. I'm not familiar with the best models. You don't need one on Cassin.

Digging out camp after a four-foot dump. 14,000 ft.

Electronics

iPhone: I switched back to the smaller size, the SE, because I spend many more hours carrying it than staring at its screen. I save trip information to Evernote, plan routes in Google Earth and send them to Gaia GPS so I have maps and navigation info with me. I usually bring maps, too, but rarely use them. The battery last between two days to a week, depending on visibility and how much I use the camera.

Portable Battery: Ankler seems to have a corner on the best value battery market. For general use and most trips, their Power Core Mini is Amazon’s #1 best seller. For an expedition battery, get their PowerCore+ 20100 if you might get a new laptop in the next few years (the USB-C connection will soon become universal on laptops). If not, the Astro 2nd Gen E5 has excellent power to weight and capacity ratios and is cheaper

Camera: The Sony RX100 continues to be the best pocketable camera--so say all the photo experts. I used the second generation until I dropped it in a river. Then I eplaced it with the fourth generation, which is so impressive.

GPS: Get Gaia GPS for your phone and upload your routes and waypoints from google earth.

Eating dinner at 17,700 on Cassin Ridge

Climbing

Ice Tools: Lots of hard ice and mixed climbers use the Petzl Nomics. But those are only good for hard climbing. I use the Petzl Quarks, which are lighter and more versatile--I take the grips off for easier plunging on ski mountaineering trips and general use. The hammer and adze are is essential for alpine climbs--for pounding pins, scraping off rotten ice, digging bollards, and even digging out frozen tent parachutes (fabric stakes).

Ice Axe: The only other axe I own is the Camp Corsa. The Suluk 46 carbon fiber axe is better for hiking across snowfields, but fear of its limited durability has prevented me from getting one. I find the aluminum shaft on the Corsa to be nice when transitioning between steep snow and rock scrambling because it hangs from my wrist and bangs against the rock--I fear carbon fiber would break. The aluminum shaft is also critical for boot belays.

Crampons: Again, the best value gear is versatile and durable. For very hard mixed and ice climbing, monopoints are essential. But I only own and have done a lot of moderately hard climbing in the Black Diamond Sabretooths.The extra support from the two flat frontpoints is a huge advantage on steep snow and low angle ice. I’ve had my Sabretooth crampons since 2010. They’ve worn down a lot from mixed climbing, but still have some life left. I’ll buy these again.

Crampon Case: The best ultralight crampon case, by far, is Tyvek. Swing by your local post office and grab two Priority Mail envelopes for free. I double up and alternate them. These last for a few months. I don’t bother to reinforce the ends with tape or cardboard, but you could.

Rope: I’d take a 50M Sterling Evolution Ice Thong for Cassin. We had an older rope that created a lot of friction in the snow, which made it a lot harder. The other ropes I own are the Sterling Fusion Nano IV for ‘up and over’ routes and rock climbing, and the good-value-workhorse Sterling Evolution Velocity 70M for cragging.

Protection: Four Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight cams to size 1, dyneema slings (the brand doesn’t appear to matter much, Camp Nano 22 carabiners, and five Petzl Laser Speed Light ice screws, including one 21cm screw.

Helmet: Petzl Sirocco

Harness: Arcteryx FL 365 with Petzl ice clippers.

Tethers: I’ve tried the ultralight models from Blue Ice, but the elastic broke twice and I switched to the Black Diamond Spinner. Petzl is coming out with something similar in 2017 that might be better.

Denali Summit Ridge

First Ascent of Peak 7700

October 24, 2016, 1:14 pm

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The recently-uncovered truth about crossing a freezing cold glacial river is: it’s best done with your pants off. 

We can learn a lot from highly experienced Alaska mountaineers, and I’m confident this is the single most important tip for better technique in the mountains. So pay attention.

 

A well-executed pants-off crossing requires:

 

1.Confidence. Trust yourself and your ability to successfully make the crossing without pants. If you fall and bumper-butt downstream, it will be terrible, but try not to think about it.

2.Speed. Like in the alpine, the faster the better. Remove your pants as quickly as possible. Similarly, upon reaching the opposite bank, put your pants on as quickly as possible.

3.Composure. If, and more likely when, the frigid water splashes your genitalia, breathe deeply, observe the sensations, but do not show any outward sign of discomfort. For example, don’t yell, “OH ICE BALLS, THAT’S COLD!”

 

After Ice Fest on the Matanuska glacier (in mid-September), Cory and I set aside two days for ascending a peak to the east. He chose an objective and sent me a topo the week before. As we left his truck, I asked him if anyone had been to the top before. He said, “Nope. Steve Gruhn didn’t think so.” (Steve is Alaska’s mountain trivia master. Don’t bother with Google; he has memorized everything there, too.)

 

When we reached the river a few hundred yards below the toe of the glacier, Cory told me he was taking his pants off. I had never taken my pants off for a river crossing before, but I followed Cory’s leadership and chose to do the same.

 

While I fumbled with my shoelaces, Cory already had his pants off and began trudging across. Whether the just-turned-to-liquid-water propelled him like a jet boat or he was simply skilled at placing his feet in the crevices between boulders he couldn’t see, he arrived at the other side in notable time. Though he soaked his boxers, never did I see him grimace and shout, “OH ICE BALLS, THAT’S COLD!”

 

My first pants-off river crossing, just below the Matanuska glacier.

Our bodies warmed walking over some hills, across a beaver pond, and up the valley. Unfortunately, Glacier Creek pinched off the gravel bar and forced us to either enter thick brush or cross the frigid water. Cory muttered something about how the river had changed—he didn’t remember needing to cross again—as he whipped off his shoes and pants, and crossed with his boxers strapped to his pack.

Like when staring up at the intimidating crux pitch on a long, committing route, I passed the sharp end to Cory and chose to keep my pants on. 

 

Again and again, five more times, he stripped off his socks and shoes, slid off his pants, refastened his socks and shoes, and crossed with confidence and composure. Meanwhile, I ambled across the frigid waters, stood still for a minute to drain my shoes, and BOOM he was marching onwards beside me! These transitions were so fast I wondered—and still wonder but haven’t mustered the courage—better to just let him read this here—if he once had a career as a pants-off artist.

 

Almost as surprising as Cory’s pantics was the presence of gigantic tire tracks that meandered up the valley. I studied their width (at least two feet), the distance between them (far more than any vehicle I’ve ridden in), the tread pattern (no doubt industrial), and the remarkable turning radius. The turning radius baffled me most. How could something so huge turn so tightly and also ford the river every 500 feet? And did the operator(s) have their pants on?

We spent a comfortable night in a tent at 2000 feet elevation and departed ‪around 7:00 AM the next morning. Soon, we stumbled upon the mysterious vehicle, of which type I hadn’t seen since my youth exploring Maine’s North Woods. A skidder. Though designed for pulling trees off steep hillsides, this skidder appeared to be here for carrying moose out of the valley. Would they put the beast in a bag and hoist it or would they clamp onto it with the massive “grapple?!”

Cory Hinds and the mysterious tire tracks.

This is what a skidder looks like.

The actual hiking of Peak 7700 was straightforward and, I imagine, about as pleasant as it gets for a first ascent in 2016. Enjoying views from both sides, we followed a ridge into the snow, post-holing more than expected, and stopping to eat snacks and to chat. Our paces slowed considerably around 7000 feet, when we felt the altitude. Then we were at the summit. It was sunny and there was no wind! Via a snowy gully and beautiful side-hilling to the north, we were back in camp ‪around 7:00 PM.

 

Mountains usually get better—bigger, taller, steeper, more covered in snow and ice—closer to the center of a range. In addition to the opportunity to practice pants-off glacier river crossings, the lovely part about Peak 7700 is it provides stunning, big mountain views while only nine miles from the road as the crow flies, and the hike is entirely non-technical. Why on earth didn’t anyone go up this before?!

View from the summit of Peak 7700. Matanuska glacier at left. Lots of ice on top of the peaks in the distance.

Route map

Patagonia’s Environmental Efforts and Best Products

November 23, 2016, 2:46 am

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This Friday, Patagonia will donate 100% of sales to environmental groups. This post attempts to answer two questions: 

1) Do the organizations Patagonia supports benefit the environment? 
2) What are Patagonia’s best products?

The answers to these questions could be dozens of pages long, but I’ll be very brief.

Crossing an unfrozen river last Sunday in a 500 million acre state park adjacent to Anchorage (an excellent conservation effort) while thankful for warm Patagonia gear. Photo: Katie Strong

Do the organizations Patagonia supports benefit the environment?

Mostly, yes.

I’ve worked for two grassroots environmental organizations that Patagonia funds (Alaskans First Campaign and Trout Unlimited Alaska) and I’ve volunteered with a third (Sugar Pine Foundation). However, the experience that makes me qualified to answer (part of) this question is my final project in Brad Cardinale’s Conservation Biology graduate course at University of Michigan’s School of Natural Resources and Environment. I spent so much time researching Patagonia grant recipients to see if they were donating to organizations that practiced effective conservation that I barely studied for and failed the final exam. But I got an A+ on the project! The key takeaway from this research is Patagonia would benefit from restructuring their grant program such that decision-making occurs at their corporate office by environmental professionals, not by untrained clerks at their retail stores. They build employee satisfaction and boost local marketing by spreading out the bulk of environmental dollars to their stores, where staff vote on small donations to local organizations. It would be better, for the environment, if Patagonia thought about the big picture and directed their money to landscape-scale conservation projects and organizations (more effective than saving small parcels of land, specific species in small areas, or doing small restoration projects, all of which are primarily done by small local groups). This is not to say that all local conservation organizations are bad. The problem is that many do not have a big picture, global systems understanding of environmental issues, and money is inevitably spent on projects that appear meaningful but are in fact minimally effective.

Another problem with Patagonia's grant program is most conservation recipients are only awarded a small sum of money. In 2013, the data I looked at, the median award was only $6500. That’s only enough to hire two $12 per hour interns for the summer. 

The two organizations I’ve worked with have been funded by the Ventura office, with large donations, and are nothing short of fantastic conservation efforts. One was preventing a Delaware-based company from mining through a salmon stream and exporting massive quantities of low quality (especially polluting) coal exclusively to China. Another was helping to prevent the largest open pit copper mine from destroying the headwaters of the world’s most productive, long-term sustainable salmon fishery (Bristol Bay, which provides about two-thirds of the Lower 48’s sockeye salmon supply…a couple billion pounds of fish each year). Patagonia still supports both of these efforts, which are ongoing and may take many more years to resolve. 

In sum, when it comes to conservation grant recipients, Patagonia should put more money into fewer projects with greater conservation value.

Conservation is one aspect of their grants program; they also focus on climate change, renewable energy, and social causes, which I haven't spent time researching. 

In total, Patagonia has donated $7.1 million to environmental causes through the grants program--a respectable amount that has had a significant impact primarily in the U.S.

Beyond the grants program, Patagonia is arguably the industry leader in reducing the social and environmental impact of its products. I’m confident that no other outdoor gear company does anywhere near as much good for the environment as Patagonia.

Environmental improvement is a nice benefit to buying from Patagonia, but it should not be the primary reason to support them. We should buy the products that best fit our needs.

Hanging out in the desert in the Patagonia's Lightweight Merino shirt, which like many merino wool shirts, is far too fragile for long-term use. Mine lasted less than a year. Now, I've abandoned this type of shirt in favor of the Patagonia Lightweight Capilene Crew, which is almost as comfortable and lasts three to five times longer.

What are Patagonia’s best products?

From touring their design studios and chatting with many of their ambassadors and designers over the years (I’m expecting an update from one soon about the engineering feats in the Grade VII parka), to testing dozens of their products head-to-head with the competition, I have a good handle on how Patagonia’s hiking and climbing gear compare to the broader market. I’m clueless about their fly fishing and surfing gear. 

Here are the currently available products I own from Patagonia:

Jeans

I buy my jeans from Patagonia because they’re made with organic cotton and Patagonia will repair them for free. I’ll send them in to repair the knees first, then the butt, and by the time the pockets wear out I call it good and send them back for recycling.

Shirts

Many of my casual button-up shirts are from Patagonia. The quality in some is absolutely fantastic. The styles change annually, however, and with casual clothing, style is the main driver of purchasing decisions--that's up to you!

Houdini jacket

A wind shell for just about everything. Incredibly versatile fabric with what I think is the most versatile wind shell design. Mine is six years old, stained, torn, repaired, loved to death, and still going strong.

Houdini pants

Wind pants. My favorite backpacking pants. Also excellent for trail running. Patagonia has repaired mine twice such that a single pair has lasted three years and a couple thousand miles of walking and far more bushwhacking than I initially thought they’d handle. 

Capilene Thermal Hoody

Best value high-performance cold weather baselayer. Period.  

Capilene Thermal Bottoms

Ditto for your legs.

Lightweight Capilene Crew
This is my most used shirt. It's cheap and much tougher than lightweight merino models, which I've stopped buying because of their poor long-term value.

Merino Air Hoody

Luxury wool baselayer for expeditions or around town. I only use mine for extended multi-day trips in cold weather. (It’s more cost effective to put the wear and tear on the Capilene Thermal Hoody.) My mom owns two and uses them exclusively around town and for traveling—she LOVES the comfort and aesthetics.

90 miles and lots of vicious brush in the Escalante River (we walked from Highway 12 to Coyote Gulch) put an end to Sarah's well loved Houdini pants. Even though she asked for a repair, Patagonia replaced them free of charge.

Nano Air Light Hoody

Highest performance cold weather midlayer for hiking and climbing. I don’t recommend the original Nano Air because the Arcteryx Proton LT Hoody is more durable and performs equally well if not better.

Nano Air Light Pants

Ditto for your legs. A bit of a luxury purchase; best for active use in very cold weather or saving weight on a trip that’s very challenging for you.

DAS Parka

The best overall synthetic insulated parka. If or when BPL publishes the 13 reviews I wrote for them, you’ll see why in detail.

DAS Pants (not currently listed on their site; likely sold out)

Best insulated pants for multi-day winter trips in uncertain weather. No one else can match this combination of weather resistance and low weight. For example, Black Diamond uses cheap fabrics and a lower warmth to weight insulation and Arcteryx goes too heavy with ultra-tough and pricey Gore Windstopper that will last many times longer than the insulation inside, i.e. a lighter fabric would be better.

M10 Anorak

Best ultralight, durable rain shell. Patagonia reduced weight and cost, compared to Gore-Tex products, by using their own H2No waterproof breathable membrane. I’ve been very impressed by the redesign.

Fitz Roy Parka

The best all-purpose down parka. It’s impressively sophisticated compared to the $450 competition. Go with the Feathered Friends’ Hooded Helios if you have a short torso and you’ll save $100. Go with Montbell’s Frost Line if saving money is your highest priority.

Grade VII Parka

The single best down parka on the planet. That’s my preliminary conclusion from testing almost all the best in the world (others are en route).

Daily Boxer Briefs

I’ve had various version of these for years and love them. The Arcteryx Phase SL material might be better, but I haven’t tried them because these work well for me and they're cheaper.

Black Hole 120 Liter Duffel

I got this for free in 2013 and have patched about 20 holes in the bottom. I don’t recommend it because it’s so fragile compared to other expedition duffels. The best long-term value option I know of is an American-made duffel with much better fabrics that are also made in America: the Cilo Gear Large Duffel. Hyperlite Mountain Gear, if you have cash for the best, makes a duffel that’s lighter and tough, and $525.

This is one of my favorite Patagonia casual shirts. It's soft, cozy, and is made with organic cotton.

Here’s what I don’t own but recommend:

Down Sweater High-Loft Hoody

Excellent value, aesthetics, and quality. This should win the ‘best down jacket’ award for the general populous—everyone that doesn’t prioritize weight savings over all else.

R1 Hoody

Lightweight fleece. I wore this non-stop for a few years before switching to the Capilene Thermal Hoody, which I prefer. If you want something warmer and a bit heavier, this is a great value. Another way to think about this is: it’s a budget (less warm but more durable) version of the Nano Air Light.

Dual Aspect Hoody

Lightweight durable fleece. The R1 fabric laminated to a softshell. If you’re hard on your gear and don’t need the highest warmth to weight ratio, this is a great jacket. No one else makes anything like it.

Garmin Announces inReach SE+ and Explorer+ Satellite Messenger Devices

January 4, 2017, 4:00 am

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Garmin just announced the inReach SE+ and inReach Explorer+, their first

devices with inReach satellite communication technology, which was acquired through the

purchase of DeLorme in early 2016. 

The Garmin inReach SE+ and Explorer+ are GPS navigation devices with satellite messaging functionality. Though likely much improved over the current version, these are still a far cry from my ideal satellite messaging device.

Backstory

DeLorme is Peter's last name. He lives in Freeport, Maine, my hometown. His ex-wife was my preschool teacher, my friends did gardening and odd jobs for them. In high school, we'd play late night whiffle ball in the parking lot outside DeLorme's headquarters, while watching Eartha, the world's largest scale globe, spin at precisely the right rate. 

The company got started with gazetteers, unsuccessfully dabbled with GPS devices, and eventually developed the best satellite messaging gizmo. 

Unfortunately, the best satellite messaging gizmo is still far from what I'd call a great device. The current inReach is clunky and fickle. It feels like you're holding a plastic box from the 90's. Even the sounds associated with messaging are old school. 

I'm complaining because I carry the inReach with me on every multi-day trip and the vast majority of day trips--there's rarely cell service after crossing a ridge from the road--and I'm acutely aware of the disparity between the design of my phone and inReach.

Thus, earlier this year, I was thrilled when I heard Garmin bought DeLorme, which they did for the sole purpose of scaling up inReach. 

New Models

The current DeLorme models are satellite messaging devices. In contrast, the Garmin models coming out this spring are traditional GPS navigation devices with messaging capabilities. 

In summary:

General

• No changes to subscription plan pricing
• It's unclear if the battery capacity changes. Garmin says the new models can get up to 100 hours in tracking mode and up to 30 days in power saving mode
• The inReach Explorer+ adds preloaded TOPO maps, compass, barometric altimeter, and accelerometer. (Preloaded inReach TOPO maps are not compatible with other Garmin devices; other Garmin maps are not compatible with this device.)

Pros

• I'm guessing they have better satellite reception
• Much improved mapping and navigation capabilities, including a larger screen
• The greatest improvement, I'm hoping, will be increased durability. (Some of the current versions have been known to break and thus, on long group expeditions, some folks bring two.) 

Cons

• The current DeLorme inReach SE is available online for $250. The SE+ will retail for $399 and the Explorer+ $499
• 0.7 oz heavier
• They appear much larger in volume

Should I upgrade?

Unless you want something that can also serve as a backup GPS navigation device if you drop your phone, the current inReach SE is the best value purchase.

I understand that GPS navigation capabilities are appealing to those who may not yet have Gaia GPS on their phone. Armed with the amazing mapping capabilities of Gaia, however, I'd rather carry an extra phone for backup mapping (the iPhone SE weighs four ounces) than pay an extra $150 and carry several extra ounces for a messaging device with basic mapping and navigation capabilities I will most likely never use.

I feel the best application for the inReach+ is solo travel in technical off trail terrain (lots of fouth+ class) with prolonged periods of very low visibility. Here, you'll most certainly need a GPS to navigate and can be in big trouble if it fails. The only time I've been in such a situation was last summer when attempting the Baranof Island traverse. There, during three days of ridge traversing in incredibly dense fog and rain, with several first ascents and only an hour-ish of good visibility total, I regularly got off route when using Gaia every 5-30 minutes! I would have felt much more comfortable if I knew inReach+ was in my pack, but since I didn't drop the phone, it wasn't necessary. In the future, if I go back and try that traverse again, I won't be alone and we'll bring two phones. 

...All of this is to say that there are very few circumstances when you truly need two GPS devices per person. In most solo hiking scenarios, a map and compass is the best primary or backup (you choose) navigation tool.

Which one to get?

Assuming we'll be able to buy state or regional maps for the new devices, I don't think it's worth the extra $100 for the inReach Explorer+ when you can send route and waypoint files to the SE+ and those will work fine in the very rare event that you drop your phone off a cliff or into the river. If you're going to use the inRreach+ as your primary GPS device, it's worth getting the Explorer model for the compass, altimeter, accelerometer, etc., which make navigation faster.

My ideal inReach

I'm very excited Garmin is improving inReach and I expect them to expand the line to include devices that prioritize messaging over navigation. Here are the specs for my ideal satellite messaging device:

• As light as possible - 3 ounces! 
• The battery is the largest and heaviest part. I only use inReach to send and receive messages once a day, when I camp. I would be happy with a battery that's 50% smaller than the current inReach.
• Less than an inch thick - easier for putting into Aloksack bags, which I use to keep the device in better condition
• Rectangular for easy packing - no poky antenna
• Touchscreen for typing if you lose your phone
• Two buttons: power and SOS
• Waterproof
• Ultra-durable construction: recessed screen

Get to work, Garmin!

If you'd like to see Garmin create an excellent messaging device for backcountry users, please tell them what you want in your ideal inReach. Send a note to Maddie.Estrada@garmin.com asking her to pass your feedback onto the design team.

Winter in Anchorage

March 21, 2017, 11:43 pm

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Anchorage is for lovers of winter. It comes early to the peaks outside town—snow capping the 7,000 footers in late August. September brings ice and mixed climbing to the peaks and everyone bolts studded tires to their vehicles starting the 15th. Folks head up to the local, smooth glaciers in October for skiing. With November comes ice skating on local rivers, lakes, sloughs, and wetlands. The Nordic skating community here is remarkable: they take their long-bladed skates to link-up lakes and creeks at seven miles per hour.

September 29 at 7,700 ft.

Climate change is warming Alaska at more than twice the rate in the States. The average winter temperature across the Alaska has increased by six degrees since pre-industrial times.

Five hours of direct sun in December make one appreciate the many hours of twilight on either side and make good use of the 100 some miles of groomed cross-country ski trails in town, many of which are lit. December is also a great month for staying indoors: reading, cooking, sleeping, dinner parties, getting cozy.

Many people make some type of escape to a warmer, sunnier land, which is made easier by Alaska Airlines. Almost every resident is a member of their Club 49 (two free checked bags to and from the States) and has their air miles credit card, and the airline runs weekly deals to warm places for $300 roundtrip. Stepping off a plane onto ice-free streets is a glorious feeling!

Skiing across the west branch of the Eklutna glacier, which supplies drinking water for Anchorage.

Dave, happy to be here.

Icicle glacier, 20 miles from Anchorage, beneath Mt. Yukla's 4,000 ft north face.

Two Decembers ago I did a Darkest Days Traverse, a solo ridge romp around the winter solstice that ended prematurely after one stormy night spent in a bivy sack in a poorly constructed snow cave. I learned that it’s more fun to utilize the alpine hut system during the darkest days, and won’t be doing anymore December solo bivy sack missions.

Lots folks have headlamps with external battery packs for keeping them warm inside jackets.

Sometime this December the sun poked over the peaks and hit my office building at 11:11 AM.

The light is remarkable during the darkest days. It’s the equivalent of sunrise and sunset, all day long. So peaceful. So quiet. So gorgeous. Get outside for a ski or a walk, and then get cozy.

January flies by, with lots of cozy, and increasing excitement surrounding the lengthening days.

Greg Briagel, Huts Chairman for the Mountaineering Club of Alaska, tells me usage in their huts (seven simple, no heat, free-for-members ($25/year), perched in high alpine locations) is greatest between February and early May. This year early February I did a 6-day hut trip with plenty of light for sufficiently big headlamp-free days.

Insignificant peak

Skiing at Turnagain Pass

March is unequivocally the best month. It’s the driest, you can go backcountry skiing after work, and there are 12 hours of direct sun. This year we’ve had a stellar high-pressure system: every single day has been sunny!!

March is also the month when energy geeks rejoice, for all of the solar PV arrays are overproducing due to albedo from the snow and the cold temperatures (PV panels are more efficient in colder temperatures).

Experienced skiers call Anchorage the best city in the world. Nowhere else can you be you an hour away from both maritime and inland snowpacks. The maritime area gets 17 feet of snow and almost the same amount of rain each year! I’ve only sampled the skiing and the terrain and vistas have been jaw-dropping.

The April sun breaks up all the ice, often six inches or more, in the neighborhood streets. This year, the sun will set after 9:00 PM on April 7. Studded tires are required to come off by April 15. And that’s a wrap.

An ice and mixed route with Anchorage and Denali in the distance.

Biking on Eklutna lake.

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First Look Review: Patagonia 850 Down Sleeping Bags

March 27, 2017, 12:34 am

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Patagonia sent their three down sleeping bags for test and I’ve spent too many hours comparing them to the competition. I also had a 2.25-hour conversation with Casey Shaw, lead designer for Patagonia’s sleeping bags and the phenomenally impressive Grade VII Parka. Here’s my preliminary verdict for each bag, summarized below and with varying levels of detail father down.

Preliminary Verdict 

19 Degree: Best all-purpose sleeping bag on the market!!

30 Degree: I rarely recommend a mummy bag in this temperature range and the Patagonia 30 Degree is not as warm for its weight as the competition. But it looks snazzy!

Hybrid: Best in class for winter alpinism when you might need to sleep sitting on a ledge

Patagonia sleeping bags, left to right: 19 Degree (32.9 oz), 30 Degree (26.5 oz.), and Hybrid (17.3 oz.)

PERFORMANCE COMPARISON

850 Down Hybrid Sleeping Bag

• 17.3 ounces
• $299, available only from Patagonia
• Best for alpinists who sleep sitting on tiny ledges

VERDICT

I’ve used this bag four nights, each between 10 and 20 degrees, paired with three different parkas, and believe it’s the best one person sleeping bag for hardcore alpinism. The bag is ideal for alpine routes (rock, ice, and snow) that require a toasty warm parka and have a high probability of you sleeping sitting upright. For everything else, a top quilt is warmer for its weight and therefore better.

BACKSTORY + PERFORMANCE

Yvonn Chouinard loves elephant foot sleeping bags and wanted Patagonia to make one. Ambassadors and designers had mixed feelings about this style of bag, but the project went forward with enthusiasm when Duncan Ferguson, a veteran climber, suggested adding a windproof fabric to the top. This is the key feature that distinguishes it from the competition. 

Specifically, the uninsulated Houdini fabric on top of the bag, a 1.2 oz ,15-denier with a high tear strength,  serves several purposes:

• Increases warmth by trapping hot air and reducing convective heat loss
• Prevents blowing snow from getting on your parka and inside the pockets, where your hands most likely are
• Protects your delicate parka from sharp, abrasive rocks
• Increases comfort by allowing you to tuck your head into the hood and feel as if you are inside a normal sleeping bag

Of the 70 ish sleeping bags I’ve used, the Hybrid was the first to place a more durable fabric on the interior. This addresses the greater abrasion and higher probability of tearing the fabric from wearing boots inside the sleeping bag. (it might not fail, for example, if you snag a lace hook when inserting or removing your boots.)

COMPETITION

The Hybrid bag has two main competitors:

Brooks Range Elephant Foot – the insulated area is slightly warmer, but the bag is heavier and costs $150 more. I don’t recommend it.

Feathered Friends Vireo– $9 more, one ounce less, 25 degrees of insulation in the lower half and 45 up top. I’ve used the Vireo with insulated pants and a parka down to -15 F. I love that the insulation and fabric extend to the shoulders because it’s much more comfortable than a true elephant foot like the Brooks Range model. I’ve found the Vireo to be better than the Patagonia Hybrid for warmer weather alpine climbing because it has insulation on top and can be used with a light down jacket.

I believe both the Vireo and Patagonia Hybrid are only worth purchasing if you’re a hardcore climber and may sleep sitting up on a ledge without room for two people, a circumstance that’s rare.

I’ve found the best way to save a lot of weight is to use a two-person sleeping bag. The 41 oz. Feathered Friends Spoonbill works well for two people in very cold temperatures and the ZPacks Twin Quilt, available in 10, 20, 30, and 40-degree options, is great for everything else.

19 Degree Sleeping Bag

•  32.9 ounces
•  Best all-purpose sleeping bag in the world
•  $499, available only from Patagonia       

VERDICT

Based on sleeping in it one night, comparing the specifications to over 20 competing bags, testing around 70 sleeping bags for outdoorgerlab.com, and talking extensively with its designer, I feel confident this is the best all-purpose sleeping bag on the market. Go Patagonia! 

The 19 Degree is not as warm for its weight as a super puffy, slim-cut mummy bag, but it’s considerably more comfortable. That’s the tradeoff with all-purpose bags: opt either for a thermally efficient cut that’s great for use below freezing or a more comfortable cut for a better sleep above in above freezing temperatures, which when we used the bag most!

Thus, if you want a sleeping bag that’s excellent for car camping, basecamps, and also performs well for backpacking, climbing, and other weight-saving wild adventures, I believe the 19 Degree is the new pinnacle product. I’m impressed.

The 19 Degree bag has three zippers so you can vent, use our hands with your head and shoulders covered, tie into a climbing anchor, or sit up cross-legged. This is one of many ways the bag increases comfort compared to slim-cut, side zippered mummy bags.

COMFORT

The 19 Degree bag’s design strikes an excellent balance between warmth, weight, and comfort, with an emphasis is on comfort.  The center zip makes it easier to use your arms while inside the bag, for eating and cooking, for example.

I find the hood to be slightly more comfortable than those of Western Mountaineering and Feathered Friends’ design. Western Mountaineering hoods are notorious for smushing the drawcord against your forehead when pulled tight. (It's not a big deal, but I'm surprised they haven't fixed it.) When cinched tight, the 19 Degree's hood does a good job at drawing the bag tight around the base of your neck, which helps to seal in warm air. 

The foot box is far superior to the traditional tunnel design used by most companies: it’s spacious enough for a water bottle and electronics and allows your feet to be unrestricted when perpendicular to the ground. Truly great work with the foot box!

The 19 Degree foot box flipped inside out. I've found Patagonia foot boxes are far more comfortable than traditional "tunnel" designs.

If you like to sleep naked or with your dog, you’ll appreciate that, like the Hybrid bag, the Houdini fabric is also used on the interior of the 19 Degree. Patagonia could have saved an ounce or two by using a lighter fabric, but they went with the Houdini because its textured yarn is more comfortable against the skin. Casey said, “I like to sleep naked.”

I climbed from this bag into a Katabatic Gear quilt, a Feathered Friends mummy, and a Western Mountaineering mummy to compare the interior fabrics against bare skin. I agree the 19 Degree feels softer. I suspect it will also feel less sticky if you get too hot and sweaty. Another potential benefit: Casey says the Houdini’s textured yarn reduces the cold chill that’s common when climbing into a cold bag with a smooth, tightly woven fabric. (Friction from sliding into the bag heats air at the surface of the fabric and traps it in the texture.)

The other, less significant, advantage of using the Houdini fabric for the interior is durability. Applications for this include cozying up with your dog or wearing a climbing harness and boots. 

The 19 Degree bag is very spacious from the knees all the way to the shoulders. The cut is too big to be optimally thermally efficient for skinny people, but it provides extra comfort and should fit folks with bigger builds well. The other obvious advantage to a larger cut is there's space for puffy jackets and pants.

 

Western Mountaineering Versalite, left, and Patagonia 19 Degree, right. Both bags weigh almost the same amount, but the Versalite 10 degrees warmer, costs $75 more, and is not as comfortable (generally and especially in the hood) as the 19 Degree.

An excellent, ergonomic hood.

Vertical Baffles

A variety of sleeping bags use vertical baffles, which stabilize down better than continuous horizontal baffles and, according to Casey, who did the math, save a small amount of weight. Some companies like Marmot, Brooks Range Big Agnes use Isotec Flow construction, which consists of two pieces of overlapping mesh that separate the inside of the chamber. This design makes it faster to fill the sleeping bag. (Insert the tube, pump 10g down into one chamber, pull the tube out to the next chamber, fill, and repeat.) Insotect Flow is not a proper baffle, however. Down might shift from one chamber to another. Patagonia uses proper baffles, see the ugly seam at the lower third of the bag, which will keep down in place for the life of the bag.

WEIGHT

The 19 Degree is one of many premium sleeping bags that weigh around 32 oz. and have around 20 oz. of the best down fill. The main drawback to the 19 Degree bag compared to the other premium mummy bags is its slightly lower warmth to weight ratio. Adding extra volume, the tougher and more comfortable interior fabric, and the generous foot box reduces the warmth compared to slim-cut mummy bags that weigh the same amount. For example, the Western Mountaineering Versalite, and even more so, Feathered Friends Lark UL 10, aren’t as comfortable and don’t have the stunning detailing of the 19 Degree, but they’re considerably warmer. An ever more successful example is my Katabatic Gear Grenadier, which weighs almost the same amount as the 19 Degree insize long and keeps me warm down to around 10 degrees while wearing only light baselayers and a down hood—it’s my go-to winter sleeping bag. Unfortunately, both of those bags are less comfortable than the 19 Degree. The Grenadier, for example, a few minutes of fiddling with straps to attach the bag to your pad, it’s very narrow in the feet and legs, and when it’s well below freezing I find that I need to adjust the cords each time I shift from my back to my side to prevent drafts. There’s no doubt about it: wider mummy bags are more comfortable. But there is a threshold where the comfort benefit of increasing width do not exceed costs of increased weight and reduced thermal efficiency. I believe this threshold lies somewhere around the Patagonia 19 Degree bag. An example of a bag that crosses the threshold is the Nemo Nocturne, which has lots of room in the lower legs and weighs six ounces more than the 19 Degree.

Comparing single-sided loft of the Patagonia 19 Degree, left, to the Katabatic Gear Grenadier quilt at right. The Grenadier has a 5 degree rating and weighs two ounces less than the Patagonia 19.

WARMTH

If you want to own all-purpose bag that performs well in winter without wearing a jacket, this is not the best option. (The Feathered Friends Lark UL 10 would be my top choice.)

Sleeping bag dorks will notice Patagonia chose not to include a full draft collar at the neck. Instead, there’s an extra-large baffle that helps to seal out cold air without require snapping and cinching. I support this decision because a full collar is only necessary when temperatures are below freezing. Again, wear a jacket or get a warmer bag for frequent use below freezing.

The super stuffed neck baffle. Though it doesn't snap together and cinch, like 10-degree bags from other companies, it's a no-fuss way to seal in hot air.

 FIRST IMPRESSION CONCLUSION

If saving weight is your top priority, get a quilt. (Katabatic Gear offers the best performance and Enlightened Equipment the best value.) If you want an all-purpose bag for everything, I believe the Patagonia 19 degree sets the new standard.

These are my first impression of the bag. It’s going off in the mail to my mother tomorrow to use for a 9-day trip in Utah and I’ll put it to use throughout the summer in Alaska. Look to BackpackingLight for a full review later this year.

30 Degree Sleeping Bag

• 26.5 ounces
• If saving weight is the goal, you’re better off with a quilt or box-baffled, hoodless mummy
• $399, available only from Patagonia      

Overall, the 30 Degree doesn't perform as well as its competitors. Patagonia should have taken additional measures to increase the warmth to weight ratio, such as by using a lighter interior fabric. Though I'm sure many people will buy it, I believe Patagonia should have built a lightweight quilt instead of this bag--that would have been a significant contribution to the ultralight community and many of Patagonia's weight savings customers would have been much happier. I will not be testing this bag in-depth, but I'll share a few thoughts here:

The Patagonia 30 Degree sleeping bag is cut slimmer than the 19 Degree, has a half-length zipper, and sewn-through baffles. Even with these "minimalist" features, the bag is not as warm for its weight as many of its competitors.

The sewn-through construction is not as warm a box baffled bag; the EN Lower Limit rating is 30 degrees, which usually translates to comfort outdoors down to around 40 degrees, even less for some folks who sleep cold. As with similar models from other companies, such as the Feathered Friends Merlin UL 30 and Western Mountaineering SummerLite, the Patagonia 30 Degree is not warm enough to serve as an all-purpose bag. Consequently, I don’t recommend this type of sleeping bag. If you're going to have one bag, it's worth spending more and carrying the extra weight of a warmer bag. But could it be worth buying for folks who want to save weight in warmer weather? If you’re adamantly opposed to a quilt, yes. (The Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 20 weighs 1.5 ounces less than the Patagonia 30, has box baffles, has a higher warmth to weight ratio, and for these reasons is my favorite lightweight mummy bag.) Otherwise, a quilt is warmer for its weight, more versatile due to the adjustable girth, and costs the same amount or less. Look to Katabatic Gear.

I’ll leave the 30 Degree discussion on a positive note:  As you saw in the first photo, this may be the most aesthetically pleasing sleeping bag out there. The baby blue color is gorgeous; unlike flat, box-baffled bags the puffy vertical baffles and half-length center zip have a striking appearance; and the contrast between the bright orange interior is wonderful. If only all sleeping bags looked this good!

The Carhartt Jacket, Restored

May 11, 2017, 11:02 pm

≫ Next: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Ultralight Backpack Review: Windrider, Porter, Southwest & Ice Pack

≪ Previous: First Look Review: Patagonia 850 Down Sleeping Bags

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I wanted to write this up a year and a half ago. Better late than never:

Attachment is an important part of global sustainability

The consensus among systems thinking and climate change experts is: our problem lies not primarily with population, but with consumption. We need to radically reduce our environmental impacts. For example, the latest IPCC report calls for an 80% reduction in US carbon emissions, from a 1990 baseline, by 2050.

Emotional attachment to our material possessions is a critical ingredient to global sustainability because it reduces consumption. The more emotionally attached we are to our possessions, the less likely we are to replace them before they wear out.

Here, I show how my attachment to a much-used possession, my 2002 Maine state champions ski team jacket, led to its repair, which thereby increased its function, my enjoyment, and attachment, and reduced my environmental impact compared to buying new.

The restored Carhartt jacket, mid-April 2017, Kenai river, Alaska. Among other things, this jacket is great for holding wet dogs.

Backstory
I got this jacket in 2002 when I was a freshman in high school. Our ski teams also won the state the championship two of the three other years I was there, but I gave those more expensive jackets to friends because I didn't like them. Attachment is stronger when something works well.

I used this jacket for countless days when I owned a landscaping business through 2008: hauling brush, felling trees, mowing lawns, planting, pruning, mulching, edging, weeding, etc. And then for another eight years of less intense use around town and household chores. In 2015, the high-loft synthetic insulation was pulverized and had virtually no insulation value. The zipper was also torn at the base and the fabric around the wrist cuffs had a few holes and was rapidly weakening in other areas.

Restoration
Sarah added new insulation to the jacket as a 2015 Christmas present. I ordered the following materials from ripstopbytheroll.com:

• 5 oz Climashield Apex high-loft synthetic insulation for the torso
• 3.6 oz Climashield Apex high-loft synthetic insulation for the arms and the hood
• 1.0 oz breathable, calendared ripstop nylon fabric for the interior

I mostly use the jacket around town for errands and outdoor chores. With the restoration, I wanted it to be warm enough to stand around outside for twenty minutes when it's below freezing, but not be too bulky or restrict the mobility of my arms. The jacket's hood is on the small size and I rarely wear it, so I chose to also use a moderate insulation there as well. I wanted a reasonably durable fabric that felt nice against the skin and was more fun to look at than the original boring black fabric. 

Carhartt sent a new zipper for free. It's a massive metal #10 YKK that looks and feels indestructible. The grinding sound resulting from opening and closing it makes me feel strong like a champion woodsman and the vibrations from the interlocking teeth radiate throughout my fingers and hands, making me feel capable of the most impressive feats of toughness. It's an enormously overdone zipper, but I heartily enjoying using it.

Sarah removed the old liner, used it as a model to create a pattern, built a liner with insulation and fabric, and attached it to the jacket!

Here's the original liner fabric, which was unpleasant against the skin and had an abrasive thread with extensive quilting. The nearly worthless insulation is on the right.

Sarah finishing the new liner in late December 2015. She used the old interior to create a pattern and hung the completed liner from the canvas exterior.

Completed liner ready to be installed. Note the impressive loft!

Results

I LOVE the restored jacket. As much today as when it was finished nearly a year and a half ago. It's perhaps twice as warm as the original (almost as warm as a Patagonia DAS parka), more comfortable than the original, and it looks better, too. I’m proud of my ski team’s success. It's nice to wear an older jacket around town, rather than fancy new technical apparel like most folks nowadays. And someone special used her skills to make this project possible. Another decade or more, here we come!

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Ultralight Backpack Review: Windrider, Porter, Southwest & Ice Pack

September 6, 2017, 7:12 pm

≫ Next: Baranof Island Ridge Traverse

≪ Previous: The Carhartt Jacket, Restored

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Over the last six years, I’ve used almost every Hyperlite Mountain Gear backpack, every size, and every fabric option. Through also testing approximately 20 other competing hiking and climbing packs, I’ve found that the best all-purpose ultralight backpack available today is the:

Hyperlite Moutain Gear Porter with Stuff Pocket  31-42 ounces, $300-$420

This is a mega review for Hyperlite's Porter, Windrider, Southwest, and Ice Pack. All of these models are available in four sizes (2400, 3400, 4400, and 5400 cubic inches) and three fabrics (50-denier Dyneema Composite Fabric/Polyester Hybrid, 150-denier Hybrid, and nearly-indestructible woven Dyneema). 

This review aims to help you find the best ultralight pack for your needs. It may not be a Hyperlite pack. If it is, I hope you close this page feeling 100% confident you’re choosing the model that’s best for your needs. 

My two favorite Hyperlite Mountain Gear backpacks: Southwest (left) and Porter.

Can you spot the Hyperlite 3400 Southwest pack?  Here Sarah uses her skills and lightweight gear to move more efficiently and comfortably than novice backpackers. Root Glacier, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. 2017.

Here are key Hyperlite-relevant results from my experience testing all types of backpacks:

1.    Except for alpinism, crazy light trips, and crazy heavy trips, I've found that Hyperlite backpacks strike an ideal balance between weight, comfort, features, versatility, and durability.

2.    A great pack will be as comfortable and as light as possible. The best value pack will also be versatile and durable. This is why Hyperlite packs excel. They perform at a very high level for a variety of activities and last a long time. 

3.    My favorite models are the Porter and the Southwest.

4.    To maximize versatility, I recommend either the 3400 or 4400 cubic inch size.

5.    I recommend the 150-denier Dyneema/Polyester hybrid fabric for long-term durability.

I love Hyperlite packs because they are light enough for very challenging trips, tough enough for long-term use, and versatile for a wide range of applications. Including weekend trips with friends, dogs, beer and a roaring fire. Overall, I have found them to be fantastic backpacks.

First, a disclosure

I prefer durable and versatile products because they are a better value and have less of an impact on the environment.

The only Hyperlite pack I have not used is the Daybreak. My experience with Hyperlite products comes partly from when I helped to test them for OutdoorGearLab, between 2010-2014. I reviewed Hyperlite's ultralight shelters and contributed to pack testing. This is the only review I've written on Hyperlite packs.

Hyperlite did not send any packs for this review. I got them all for free in exchange for photos, blog posts, and feedback on their products. Many people would testify to the fact that I’m not biased toward Hyperlite products. I feel that some have yet to mature. I use their packs because they work very well for a lot of activities. I have parted ways with the ones that didn't perform well or weren't a good fit for my needs.

Though it wasn't necessary, I carried Seldom (40 lb) across the partially frozen Escalante River in January. We both had a great time! Air temperatures were in the upper 20's Fahrenheit. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Porter pack. 2016.

What’s the Best Ultralight Backpack?

I believe the best ultralight backpack is a Hyperlite Windrider, Southwest, Porter, or Ice Pack for everything EXCEPT:

Crazy Light Hiking. If your load weighs less than 25 lb. and can fit into a small pack, I’ve found that frameless packs like the ZPacks Nero, Mountain Laurel Designs Burn, and Katabatic Gear Knick can perform better than Hyperlite 2400-4400 models because they weigh only 11-18 oz. However, they are neither versatile nor durable and you need to have excellent ultralight skills and all of the best light gear in order to use them. In other words, you also need an all-purpose backpack. See the Weight section below for my take on this type of pack.

Alpinism. If you’re climbing a route that is mostly rock climbing or hard ice climbing, you’re better off with a CiloGear pack. If you have done your research you’ll see some good reviews for the Arcteryx Alpha FL. This is a great pack, but it’s not as good as the CiloGear 30L or 30:30. In summer 2013, Chris Simrell and I toured Arcteryx’s North Vancouver factory and design studios and met with the Alpha FL pack designer. We also climbed Mt. Huntington’s Harvard route with Alpha FL 45L. CiloGear packs are the best for climbing because they have a variety of features that pull the load very close to your body. They are also more durable and more versatile than any other climbing pack. The main drawback to Cilo packs is they are not as comfortable for hiking as Hyperlite packs. Chris and I co-own the woven-Dyneema 30:30 Worksack ($575), which is the largest pack I recommend from CiloGear. (I’ve also used the 45L and 60L.) The Ice Pack, like any Hyperlite pack, is excellent for types of climbing that are mostly walking (mountaineering) and skiing. For example, the standard routes on Denali and Everest. See below for a detailed discussion of the Ice Pack.

Crazy Heavy Loads.  I don't like to carry more than 50 lb. in Hyperlite’s 4400 cubic inch packs. That limit is lower, perhaps 40 lb., for the 3400 size. Ambassador Luc Mehl, who normally uses a 4400 size pack, told me, “I'd start seriously considering my pack options that have beefier frames somewhere around 65 lb. I'm more of a shoulder than a hip carrier so I might get away with more weight in HMG than other folks are comfortable with.”

  

Lowest Cost. Hyperlite packs cost a lot because they use premium US-made fabrics and labor in the US is expensive. Consider Hyperlite if you’re after the highest performance product.

Chris and I used the 2400 Southwest and 3400 Porter for our first hike-packraft traverse of Washington's Olympic Peninsula. 2013.

Three Packs for Everything

A person needs up to three packs for everything. If I had three packs for everything, I’d choose:

1.    CiloGear 30L Worksack— incredibly versatile, durable, and comfortable

2.    Hyperlite 4400 Porter + Stuff Pocket — brilliant for all things hiking, skiing, packrafting, and mountaineering

3.    Seek Outside Unaweep 6300 — carrying more than 50 lb. for the majority of the trip

Now, I’ll discuss how each Hyperlite pack performs, relative to the competition, in key areas: versatility, comfort, durability, and weight.

Performance Evaluation

Versatility

Capacity

The main thing that influences versatility is a pack’s capacity. We all use backpacks for a variety of purposes and our interests and activities change over time. Don’t make the mistake of getting one that’s too small.

I don’t think it’s worth buying the 2400 size because: (1) If you want to go really lightweight, get a frameless pack like the CiloGear 30L Worksack (most versatile and durable) or, the ZPacks Nero, MLD Burn, or Katabatic Gear Knick (best for hiking); (2) The only difference between the 2400 and 3400 is the height of the pack. The extra capacity adds about four ounces. Given that you’ll own the pack for many years and use it for a variety of purposes, I think the weight-versatility tradeoff is absolutely worth it. For this reason, I no longer own any Hyperlite packs in the 2400 size.

Here’s what I think each size is best for:

2400 cubic inches

Summer backpacking. This size can work for 7-14 day three-season trips if you have all of the best ultralight gear (a flat tarp, two-person down quilt, etc.), or if your partners(s) have larger packs to carry the bulky things. It can also be used for short winter trips if you have the most compact gear. The photo below shows me with the 2400 Ice Pack in 2011 on a three-day ski-to-climb trip where I carried the minuscule Feathered Friends Vireo sleeping bag and no group cooking or camping gear. The other photo is of Chris on our first Olympic Peninsula hike-packraft traverse in 2012. He was able to use a 2400 because I had a 3400 and carried our two-person packraft.

Chris leading the charge up the final pass on Mt. Olympus with the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Southwest pack. Olympic Peninsula, Washington. 2013.

3400 cubic inches

This size is ideal for backpacking, lightweight packrafting, and lightweight winter trips. It’s great for people who have already invested in a compact shelter, sleeping bag, and know how to leave the unnecessary things behind.

I’ve used the 3400 for a bunch of trips where we carried a two-person packraft and related gear. I used it on Denali’s West Buttress to haul 65 lb. loads and pull a sled by looping some cord or webbing through the Ice Pack’s hip belt slot. I then switched, for Cassin Ridge, to the ZPacks Zero (8 oz.) that was better for low-abrasion high-altitude climbing. Zeb used a NWD CiloGear 45L Worksack both for the load hauling and the route. I was only able to use the Zero because I carried the compact heavy things, such as three 16 oz fuel canisters and our tent, and he carried the bulky items.

Roman Dial used the 3400 Windrider for a weeklong cold-weather packrafting trip in the Arctic this summer. There wasn’t much brush so he strapped the boat on top of his pack. Using this size pack is very rare for whitewater packrafting in general and especially in Alaska.

Sarah used her size small 3400 Windrider for our 525-mile North With You trip, but that only worked because we had an ultralight packraft, very little other gear (no drysuits, for example), and I had a size large 4400 Windrider to carry the boat.

To summarize, in order to make the 3400 work for packrafting and most other multi-sport trips you need to take both very light gear and very little gear.

We tried to do a 150-mile "ridge traverse" of Capitol Reef National Park, but we got butts kicked. This is incredible country. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest pack. 2016.

4400 cubic inches

This size is ideal for multi-sport trips, lengthy unsupported trips, and for winter trips. The diameter is larger than the 3400, all 4400 models are built with a burlier 150-denier polyester face fabric, and they have a slightly more robust frame sheet for carrying heavier loads.

As I mentioned above, if I were to have one Hyperlite pack, I’d choose the 4400 Porter with a Stuff Pocket. This is also the pack of choice for super gear guru Ryan Jordan, founder of BackpackingLight. He began his description of the Porter by saying,

"Some ultralight backpackers have developed an unquenchable fetish for packs that are measured in ounces, seemingly with no regard at all to what the pack has offered with respect to durability, comfort, or aesthetic design."

Haley Johnston, a prodigious Alaska backpacker and packrafting guide, uses the 4400 Porter as her go-to pack and has pushed its limits on several expeditions. She let me share two photos of an unsupported two-week trip in the Arctic Refuge and a 25-day unsupported trip in Canada's Northwest Territories. She says,

"I can also personally attest to the fact that 80# is too much to wear that pack comfortably. But it didn't explode or fail in any way at that weight either."

Haley Johnston's 4400 Porter pack loaded with two weeks of food and packrafting gear. Note how she used the Alpacka Bow Bag for external storage! Arctic Refuge, Alaska. Photo: Haley Johnston.

Haley Johnston carrying 80 lb of food, dog food, and packrafting gear with the 4400 Porter. Northwest Territories, Canada. Photo: Malcom Herstand.

5400 cubic inches

Sometimes, with packrafting gear and/or bulky winter gear, the 4400 isn’t big enough!

The 4400 was just barely big enough for North With You. It was not big enough for a 2016 climbing-skiing-packrafting trip in the Alaska Range, where I had to attach too many things to the outside. See the photo below. Another example is when I attempted a ski mountaineering traverse of Mt. Logan (19,551 ft.) via its East Ridge (13,000 ft., easy ice and rock climbing). We had eight days of food, ten days of fuel (six ounces of white gas per person per day), -25 degree sleeping bags, and clothing for extreme cold—so much stuff that had to strap a 10-liter stuff sack to the top of my 4400 Ice Pack for the first two days up the ridge.

Hyperlite has been testing a 5400 cubic inch pack for a year and a half and will build one to order if you're interested. I have not used this pack, but I've talked to two Ambassadors and Mike about it. The 5400 was inspired by Alaska packrafting, where you carry a lot of bulky gear for paddling cold rivers in cold weather, and it’s best if the gear goes inside your pack. The 5400 could also be great for winter trips with huge down sleeping bags and parkas. Its frame is slightly more robust than the 4400, but both packs have the same weight limit. You should have enough experience to know that you need the 5400 size and won't fill it with more than about 60 lb.

Climbing Mt. Logan's East Ridge with an overloaded Hyperlite Mountain Gear 4400 Ice Pack. 2017.

Trying to ski down Moose's Tooth with about 70 pounds of gear. Hyperlite Moutain Gear 4400 Ice Pack. Alaska Range. 2016.

Features

After capacity, the next greatest attribute that affects a pack’s versatility is its features. All Hyperlite packs have the same body. In order to maximize or minimize versatility, you can choose which features (pockets, straps, etc.) best suit your needs. Here’s my take on the various models:

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Porter Features

The Porter is my favorite Hyperlite pack. In addition to being the most versatile, its features are the most refined. This pack is getting close to perfect.

The Porter has three side straps that work well for compression purposes and also for attaching skis, poles, moose antlers, wands, snow pickets, Clean Mountain Cans, ropes, etc. The straps are made with a durable material that can handle abrasion and resist sharp edges. (The side straps on the Windrider and Southwest are thin grosgrain—for hiking only—and aren’t positioned well for attaching lots of things to the pack.)

Four daisy chains run the length of the body and can be used for lashing things to the pack and/or the pack to other things (packraft, truck, yak, etc.). Hyperlite sells the four ounce Porter Stuff Pocket, which attaches to the front daisies. If you opt for the Porter, I recommend getting the Stuff Pocket. It’s really nice to have quick access to a rain shell, food, water, etc. On rare occasions, I’ll take the pocket off to save weight.

The Porter’s main disadvantage for backpacking is its lack of side pockets. You can’t pull water, maps, bear spray, etc. from a pocket while on the move. The hip belt pockets mitigate this to some extent. I put food, sunscreen, lip balm, and my phone in those pockets and stop every 45 to 60 minutes to drink water, which is either inside the pack or in the Stuff Pocket. For the last few years, I’ve been using a ZPacks shoulder pouch that stores my camera or more food. When I carry bear spray with the Porter I tie some thin cord around the neck of the canister and clip it to the bottom of my shoulder strap with a small carabiner. The canister hangs down to my side, doesn’t bang around much, and is easy to access if needed.

If you don’t envision a need for strapping much to the outside of your pack, you’re probably better off with the Southwest. The Southwest is also slightly lighter than the Porter, (less than an ounce or up to five ounces if you add the Porter Stuff Pocket), but I encourage you to prioritize versatility more than weight savings when choosing between these models.

Though it may already be obvious, let me explicitly say that the Porter is the best pack for backcountry skiing and any type of multi-day ski trip. The three side straps are great for attaching skis. The Porter is the pack of choice for summer and winter Alaska Wilderness Classic races. 

For an extra $100 Hyperlite can build your Porter pack with a woven Dyneema bottom, side panels, and ski holsters. This could be a good choice if you do a lot of steep skiing and don’t use an avalanche airbag pack.

Dan Sandberg enjoying the view of the valley we descended. The Porter pack's three side straps are great for skis and the optional Stuff Pocket keeps essentials handy. Alaska Range. 2017.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Porter (right) and CiloGear W/NWD 30:30 approaching Mt. Katahdin, Maine. 2013. Nothing beats the versatility of CiloGear's strap system. But you can attach almost anything to the Porter, too!

What I’d change on the Porter

I want the Porter pack's three side straps to be about six inches longer so I can attach bulky items like a packraft or a closed cell sleeping pad. If you expect to need to strap a lot of things to the pack, it can be worth bringing webbing adjustment straps. Sea to Summit makes an excellent lightweight model (less than 2 oz. and $10) with a durable metal locking mechanism.

One thing that I cut off my Hyperlite packs is the elastic strap that “cushions” the sternum strap. I find that I can pull the shoulder straps tighter when this a removed, and that helps to keep the load in closer to my body for climbing and technical hiking. 

  

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Southwest Features

Pockets

The only difference between the Southwest and Windrider is the pocket material. Both packs have two external side pockets and one external front pocket. The Southwest uses a 210-denier nylon reinforced with Dyneema “gridstop” and a waterproof polyurethane coating. This is a common fabric for backpacks because it’s durable and not too expensive. I’ve found it to be an excellent choice for external pockets because it’s significantly tougher than the pack body fabric (both the 50-denier and 150-denier). The only drawback to this fabric is the PU coating will wear off over a long period of time. Fabrics with a PET laminate, such as X-PAC are more durably waterproof. But this doesn’t matter because the Southwest’s pockets are external—their contents will get wet in the rain and therefore the fabric doesn’t need to be waterproof.

Pocket Design

Brandon Lampley, in his January 2016 OutdoorGearLab review, criticized how Hyperlite side pockets fail to allow both compression and access to the contents. He recommended the pack have two holes to allow the strap to pass through the inside of the pocket or the outside so you can compress the pack while also snagging a water bottle while walking. Other manufacturers like Granite Gear and Osprey do this. I agree it would be a nice change.

Another potential improvement is to make the side pockets easier to access while walking. Their high opening makes it relatively hard to put things back inside while wearing the pack. The advantage of having them in this position, a couple inches above the pack's bottom, is durability. They don't hit the ground each time you set the pack down. My favorite side pockets are the colossal ones on the Seek Outside Unaweep 6300. These are very wide, deep, and have an adjustable elastic cord that allows you to have them loose or cinched tight--and you can adjust the cord while walking. The Unaweep's design is more complex than Hyperlite's and likely also more expensive to build. Durability versus effortless side pocket access—it's a tough tradeoff.

Pocket Durability

If you use it long and hard, the Southwest’s pocket fabric will eventually develop small tears on the front side, where bush and rocks tend to smash it. This abrasion is to be expected and is easy to repair in the field. In their current elevated position, I don’t think Hyperlite should switch to a more durable fabric. See the Warranty and Repair section below for my preferred field repair method.

Trying to stay warm while hiking in the Arctic. Note the high position of the side pockets. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 4400 Southwest. 2015.

Sarah and I walked 90 miles down the Escalante River watershed, crossing the river hundreds? of times and thrashing through thick brush. It was kind of brutal. But worth it. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest. 2015.

How I modified my 4400 Southwest pack 

I make a handful of small modifications to the Southwest. The same would apply to the Windrider if I used it. These are:

·      Permanently close the hydration port. Hyperlite added a hydration port on the side of the pack. I don’t use hydration bladders because they are heavy, break easy, and are a pain to refill. I close the hydration port by cutting the velcro off and gluing the overlap shut with Seam Grip. This is a permanent, waterproof fix.

·       I cut the ice axe loop off my 4400 Southwest. This may not be a good choice for you. Here’s my rationale if you’re interested: This feature is intended for traditional mountaineering axes for crossing steep snowfields. In order to attach a tool, you need to add your own closure system (3mm elastic cord or static cord and a cordlock) to the webbing loop on the top strap closure. Get these at your local gear store for less than $5 or from ripstopbytheroll.com. When you have an ice tool attached here it prevents you from fully filling the front pocket. That’s annoying, but not a big deal. It would be more functional if the ice tool loop were off to the side so the tool’s shaft fell in the gap between the side and front pockets. I choose to remove the ice tool loop because it does not increase the pack’s function for me, with my 4400 Southwest. I store my mountain axe inside my pack with a plastic tip and adze protector until I need it. If I cross the snowfield and expect to need the tool again soon, I’ll stash it between my shoulder and the shoulder strap with the pick facing backward. After scrambling across the rock or scree to the next snowfield, I’ll pull the ice tool out from behind my shoulder. I’ll then put the tool back inside my pack when I no longer need it. I much prefer keeping the axe inside my pack because it doesn’t get caught in the brush, doesn’t bang around, and I know I won’t lose it. Even two technical ice tools fit well inside a 4400 pack. I don’t recommend cutting the ice axe loop off the 2400 or 3400 size packs.

·      I also cut off the four plastic square pieces that surround the front pocket. I believe these are intended to prolong the life of the grosgrain loops when you lash things through the plastic hardware (less friction on the loop). Though they barely weigh anything, I never found a use for them during my first four years with Southwest packs so I cut it off when I got my 4400 Southwest in 2015.

The above modifications are trivial in the big picture. They make me happy because my pack is more aesthetically pleasing and more functional for me.

A closer look at the Southwest/Windrider ice tool attachment system. Glacier National Park. 2012.

Carrying a technical ice tool with the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest. Alaska. 2016.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Windrider Features

I prefer the Southwest over the Windrider because the Windrider’s mesh offers only one advantage: minuscule time savings. You can see exactly where your items are, which saves a few seconds when reaching for them. This benefit is offset by the mesh’s significant limitations:

·      The pocket contents can get covered with dirt, mud, sand, snow, etc., when the pack falls over or when you set it down on its side.

·      The Southwest’s solid pocket fabric protects the pockets’ contents from abrasion. For example, if you have an ultralight $450 rain jacket, you can put it a pocket and walk through dense brush without worrying it will get torn up. This is a big advantage.

·      Large holes in the mesh can catch on the brush, which is annoying at best and tearing at worst.

·      A solid fabric is far easier to repair in the field.

·      The mesh offers no significant weight savings.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Ice Pack Features

I’ve used this pack in three sizes and three fabrics and find it to be ideal for long approaches or general mountaineering when you want to attach ice tools to the front of the exterior. As I mentioned above, a pack designed specifically for on-route climbing carries better and has superior features than the Ice Pack. For example, the Ice Pack is not tough enough for serious alpine rock routes unless you get the $450 Dyneema version. It has a three-buckle closure system, which is great for hiking but climbing often requires getting inside the pack at each pitch for food, water, a belay parka, etc. A drawcord closure is superior for speed. Again, I view the Ice Pack as one with which to approach technical climbs or for alpine ice climbing and general mountaineering. 

Approaching Mt. Katahdin, Maine in 2011 was the first time I used a Hyperlite Mountain Gear backpack. 2400 Ice Pack. 2011.

Climbing Mt. Katahdin's Ciley-Barber route with the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Ice Pack. 2011.

Crampon Attachment

The Ice Pack's crampon attachment is built super tough for people who do a ton of ice climbing. No other company uses such a burly bungee. I removed this on my 4400 because I prefer to keep my crampons inside my pack, which makes the pack more comfortable to carry and I know they won't fall off. USPS Tyvek envelopes are light, tough, and free at any post office--I double up.

Ice Tool Attachment

The Ice Packs’ ice axe attachment system works great. I wrap the strap 360 degrees around the head of an adze-less technical tool before clipping it secure. Other companies like Arcteryx use metal pieces that thread through the head of the tool, which only works with some types of tools. Overall, I have a very slight preference for CiloGear’s tool attachment design, but this is trivial in the big picture.

Removable Hip Belt

The Ice Pack is Hyperlite’s only pack with a removable hip belt. This is a great feature because you can hike or ski in with a heavy load and either put the hip belt in the pack for the route or leave it at basecamp. The other benefit is you can thread cord or webbing through the hip belt slot in order to pull a sled. This is slightly more comfortable than the traditional sled rigging method (above the hip belt on the shoulder straps).

Hip Belt Pockets

Every model except the Ice Pack comes standard with hip belt pockets. They save a lot of time and energy compared to stopping to reach into your pack. If you opt for the Ice Pack, I recommend spending another $10 for the belt with pockets. Again, this is an approach or mountaineering pack, not a hard technical climbing pack; you’re likely going to use the pockets far more than the hip belt gear loop. Also, sometimes I clip cams and ice screws to the bottom of my shoulder strap, and it works well.

Areas for Improvement

1.    The Ice Pack does not carry skis perfectly. I find that they tilt forward because the top side strap isn't as high as it could be--moving it up four ish inches would help skis the skis in a more vertical position. If you plan to carry skis a lot, the Porter pack may be a better choice.

2.    Similar to the Porter, I’ve found that the Ice Pack’s side straps would be more versatile if they were longer. There’s not enough strap to attach a full-length closed cell sleeping pad or bulky climbing boots. This is also not a big deal. Bring a couple accessory straps if you expect to go crazy attaching things to the pack.

Bottom Line

The Ice Pack is best if you want to attach skis to the sides of the pack and ice tools to the front during a long approach or for mountaineering. You can easily attach ice tools to the side of the Porter through the daisy chains. Thus, I feel the only reason to choose the Ice Pack over the Porter is if you require the tools go on the outside front of your pack.

Zeb Engberg and I hauled loads to the 14,200 ft camp on Denali's West Buttress with the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Ice Pack and CiloGear 45L NWD pack. He stripped that pack of its framesheet and hip belt for Cassin Ridge and I used a ZPacks Zero pack. 2014. I found a moose antler after climbing a peak in the Chugach mountains and carried it back for a dog chew toy. My ice tool and crampons are inside my 4400 Dyneema Ice Pack and I removed the exterior crampon attachment. Comfort

I find Hyperlite packs to be comfortable for walking and skiing, depending on the model, up to around 40 lb. It’s less comfortable above 40 lb., but I usually don’t mind this because I’m either not carrying the weight for long or the weight savings compared to switching to a heavier pack is worth the discomfort. Perhaps I’ll eat seven pounds of food over a few days, perhaps I’ll hike up to a basecamp and do day trips from there, or I’m shuttling a heavy load for one day.

It’s often desirable to have a pack that can carry heavy loads, even if it’s not the most comfortable. No other two-pound pack carries big loads as well as Hyperlite. 

I'm guessing that most other ultralight packs would disintegrate under the loads that Hyperlite packs handle. I carried 70 lb in a 4400. Haley carried 80 lb in a 4400. Luc carried 85 lb in a 4400!!

If I’m carrying more than 50 lb. for more than half the trip, I’ll use the Seek Outside Unaweep 6300.

What’s the frame made of?

The Windrider, Southwest, Porter, and Ice Pack all have two burly removable aluminum stays inside the main compartment. These are tough and quick to remove. A padded foam framesheet lies between the stays and your back.

I only remove the aluminum stays when I roll up my pack and insert it into a packraft’s Cargo Fly dry bag. I’ve done a lot of packrafting with two-person boats and we usually remove all four stays, tape them together (depending on how long we’ll be boating), and put them in one pack. This allows the other pack to roll up smaller.

What I’d change

Though this pack is incredibly comfortable for its weight, there are two small things I’d change:

·      Load lifter straps and hip belt straps on the 4400. When scrambling around on fourth class terrain or even exposed third class terrain I find that the load can quickly shift from one side to the other—making it challenging to stay balanced. Load lifter and a "pull forward strap" on the hip belt would bring the load in closer to my body.

·      The other thing I’d change is the material on the inside of the shoulder straps and hip belt. The “mesh” is prone to clogging with sand, snow, and small debris like pine needles. It also prevents me from using the pack without a shirt (chaffing) and is more abrasive on my delicate merino wool baselayers. I'd prefer a solid fabric here.

Glorious canyon exploring. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest. Utah. 2014.

Durability

Durability is another huge reason to choose Hyperlite over other ultralight packs. In my opinion, the most significant attribute that makes them much tougher than other ultralight packs is the bottom, which uses two layers of either 150-denier DCF/Hybrid or woven Dyneema fabric.

I’ll describe how the materials and design contribute to durability.

Design

Simplicity has a huge influence on durability. Take a look at the photo below, which shows the 3400 Southwest next to two ultralight competitors. Consider every pocket, strap, zipper, and piece of plastic hardware. Which do you think is least prone to failure?

Simplicity has a large influence on durability. Compare the ZPacks Arc Blast 55, Gossamer Gear Gorilla, and Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest.

I don’t want to go down a rabbit hole analyzing each component of the above packs so I’ll share two brief examples that show how I think Hyperlite models are more durable.

1.    The carbon fiber and mesh frame on the ZPacks ArcBlast is an innovative way to provide support and ventilation at minimal weight, but I doubt it will hold up to long-term use. The Arc Blast uses one layer of 50-denier DCF/Hybrid fabric on the bottom. All of the plastic components are smaller, lighter, and not as tough as those used on Hyperlite packs. For example, I was wearing a fully-loaded ZPacks Zero while jumping across a crevasse and the buckle on the shoulder strap broke when I landed. Regardless of what I’m doing, I don’t want my pack to break! 

2.    Look at the zipper on the Gossamer Gear Gorilla’s hip belt pocket. There’s no metal zipper pull. Many manufacturers have found that rigid zipper pulls increase the life of the zipper by better-transferring force in the direction of pull. That’s why Hilleberg has large, wide custom-made pulls on all of their tent doors. Zippers are often the weakest part of any product. If you need to use zippers, use a tough one and don’t skip the metal pull tab. (Hyperlite uses #5 YKK coil zips with large metal pull tabs on its hip belt pockets.) Another example is the bottom of the Gorilla, which has one layer of 100-denier nylon. 

I've found that Hyperlite backpacks' simple design and strategic reinforcements make them more durable than anything else in their weight class.

Matt Wilhelm and I enjoyed fine granite on the Evolution Traverse, a nine 13,000 ft peak link-up. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Southwest. California. 2012.

Fabrics

The Porter, Windrider, Southwest, and Ice Pack use a non-woven Dyneema Composite Fabric (formerly Cuben Fiber) that’s laminated to a woven face fabric. Think of it as a non-breathable two-layer rain jacket: a face fabric provides abrasion and tear resistance and the liner, or interior coating, provides water resistance. Dyneema fibers are incredibly strong for their weight, flexible, and unlike nylon and polyester, they don’t absorb water or stretch. Hyperlite builds packs with 50-denier and 150-denier polyester face fabrics that are glued to the DCF interior. These same materials are widely used by other cottage manufacturers and have likely traveled millions of miles across the globe.

50-denier DCF/Poly Hybrid Fabric

This is used on all 2400 and 3400 models unless you opt for the black color, which uses the 150-denier fabric. According to Hyperlite’s website, a pack built with this fabric weighs two ounces less and costs $20 less than one built from the 150-denier fabric. I recommend the 50-denier fabric only if you’ll primarily be hiking on trail, in low abrasion environments, and don’t plan to overload the pack. By choosing this fabric, you are making a significant sacrifice in long-term durability.

My experience with this fabric includes:

• Using a 2400 Ice Pack and 2400 Southwest for three years
• Using a 3400 Porter for five years
• Using the same fabric on the ZPacks Zero and ZPacks Nero
• Spending several months in the backcountry with folks who have 3400 Southwest

I’ve found that the 50-denier abrades or tears with any significant encounter with rocks. An extreme example is when I did California’s Evolution Traverse in 2012 with Matt Wilhelm, who used a 2400 Windrider. The bottom was brutalized and there were a few tears in the side after our three-day trip. (Hyperlite has since made the bottom of all of their packs much more durable, using two layers of 150-denier fabric.)

My early 2012 50-denier Porter pack has six patches and I repaired the main side seams, which were coming apart. I love this pack!! But it would not be alive today if I didn't have the privilege of having so many other packs. The 150-denier fabric is better for me.

Sarah quickly hops from one "stable area" to another, trying not to sink into her knees, while crossing a bog in Arctic Alaska. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest. 2015.

Hitchhiking in rural Utah after a hiking-packrafting trip. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest and 4400 Porter. 2014.

150-denier DCF/Poly Hybrid
This is used in all 4400 size packs. If you want a 3400 size with this fabric, choose the black color.

I recommend this fabric because it’s only two ounces and $20 more than the 50-denier, and the extra durability is a big advantage for the long-haul.

To further encourage you to choose this option I’ll share that Eric Parsons, owner of Revelate Designs, which makes the best bikepacking gear, recently bought a 3400 Southwest. He's an outdoor gear pro and chose the black model with the 150-denier fabric.

Woven Dyneema

The absolute best backpack fabrics in the world are made with woven Dyneema. The vast majority of people will never wear out a pack made from this material. If you want one, Hyperlite can build a custom Dyneema pack for $450-$600. 

I have used for four different types of woven Dyneema since 2011:

1.    A super heavy duty version that Hyperlite used from approximately 2013 through 2016. I have a 4400 Ice Pack built with this fabric.

2.    The version they use now. I have Dyneema Duffel and used a Summit pack made from this fabric.

3.     A woven Dyneema fabric CiloGear developed and began using in 2011. I have a 30L WorkSack made with this.

4.    Same as #3 but with an X pattern built into the non-woven component to increase stiffness. Chris Simrell and I co-own a CiloGear 30:30 Worksack with this fabric on the bottom and front. CiloGear claims the extra stiffness allows the internal compression strap to pull the load closer to your body.

CiloGear has recently worked with DSM Dyneema to reformulate both of their woven-Dyneema fabrics. I have not used these because my Cilo packs are still almost unscathed!

The main differences between the standard woven Dyneema and the one CiloGear customized are durability and price. Both materials may use the same face fabric, but Cilo’s is three times more expensive because the non-woven component arranges Dyneema fibers at 0, 90, 45, and -45 degrees. (DSM Dyneema's normal version arranges the fibers at 0 and 90 degrees.) This change increases the weight of the liner by three times. Cilo claims their modification makes it less likely for holes to propagate and the fabric is less likely to delaminate.

Is a Woven Dyneema pack right for you?

“If your life consists of five expeditions per year, you’re a working mountain guide, or you’re mountain crazy, a Dyneema pack is best for you."

                                                        -Graham Williams, owner of CiloGear

“If you are particularly hard on your gear, or anticipate doing a lot of canyoning or big-wall hauling where abrasion is an issue, you might find the added durability of Dyneema fabric to be worth the added weight and expense.”
                                                                -Brad Meiklejohn, Hyperlite Ambassador

Mike St. Pierre says canyoneering folk use their backpack as part of a "friction system" as they descend highly abrasive slot canyons. In other words, they grind the pack into the rock as they rappel or chimney downward.

I'm thankful I own a 4400 Dyneema Ice Pack with ski holsters because it should last for the rest of my life. But I have seriously questioned if I need a fabric this durable on a big pack. Would the 150-denier last for the rest of my life? Also, it weighs 48 ounces after I cut the crampon attachment off. That's 10 ounces more than the 4400 Porter. But I use the pack a lot and it's unscathed after at least two weeks of carrying skis all day.

Almost to the top of a pass and getting psyched for the descent to the Tokosita River. Woven Dyneema 4400 Ice Pack with ski holsters. Alaska Range. 2016.

We attached two pairs of skis to a Woven Dyneema 4400 Ice Pack and strapped that to the Alpacka Gnu. This works well for Class II paddling. 2016.

Delamination
The inside of any DCF pack is not as tough as the outside. If you're really tough on the inside (sharp and abrasive objects), you may wear into the fabric and cause the Dyneema fibers to come apart in "strings." If this happens, put a strip of Tyvek tape over the area and treat the pack with care and respect.

Durability Compared to Climbing Packs

If you compare Hyperlite packs to those built specifically for alpine climbing, which is comparing apples to watermelons, Hyperlite packs are not as durable. The main limiting factor here is their flat bottom. The seams around the bottom front abrade with regular contact with rocks. The best climbing packs have a scooped bottom, one piece of fabric that extends at least six inches up the front, which eliminates that point of failure. Hyperlite uses a flat bottom so you the pack can stand up on its own, which increases efficiency for packing. See the photo below.

Hyperlite uses two layers of fabric on the bottom and bottom side of their packs. There are two main reasons for this: (1) Two layers add some padding between rigid items in your pack and the offending object—it’s less likely to tear the outer fabric; (2) Since Hyperlite wants to use only Dyneema fabrics, it’s cheaper than using a single woven Dyneema fabric, which would be longer lasting. (CiloGear uses a single tough fabric on the bottom of all of their packs. The same is also true with Arcteryx climbing packs.) Personally, I prefer packs and duffels, everything really, with one super tough fabric because it’s easier to repair. For example, I’ve glued a bunch of holes in the bottom of Hyperlite bags, but it’d be easier if I could access the bottom fabric’s interior to put some Tyvek tape on, which would make for a cleaner-looking and more effective repair. Hyperlite is not alone is their decision to use two layers. For example, Patagonia’s redesigned Ascensionist pack, the Katabatic Gear Eos, Hyperlite’s duffel, Patagonia’s Black Hole Duffel, etc. all sandwich foam between two layers of fabric. This is a minor detail that's only relevant if you’re deciding between the Ice Pack and another climbing pack.

We made it through the alders and camped promptly on an old stream channel. I learned that Dan's shoulders are too wide for us to share this double sleeping bag when it's below freezing. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 4400 Ice pack and 3400 Porter (not shown). Alaska Range. 2017.

Making miles in Glacier National Park. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 2400 Southwest. 2012.

Weight

All of the Hyperlite packs mentioned here are “ultralight.” But there are even lighter packs available!!

Here are some questions to help you determine if it’s worth sacrificing versatility and durability for additional weight savings in your backpack purchase:

1.    Are you looking for a pack for the most physically demanding endeavor you’ve ever attempted?

2.    Do you already have all of the following: an ultralight shelter, down quilt, ultralight stove, and ultralight clothing?

3.    Do you have expert ultralight skills? (You can pitch a flat tarp perfectly in a variety of ways, you are almost always very efficient with your route finding and navigation, you have Wilderness First Responder training that allows you to address first aid concerns with less gear, you and your gear operate in a seamless efficiency where little time is wasted, etc.)

4.    Are you or will you train extensively such that you’re in prime physical condition for your trip?

5.    Is your objective mostly on trail or do you have enough experience with ultralight packs (or can ask someone who does) to know that the pack will not break during your trip?

6.    Are you OK if the pack has a short lifespan?

These questions try to demonstrate that fitness and skill matter far more than if your pack weighs 21 ounces or 32 ounces, and that it’s necessary to upgrade all other gear before you can have the optimally ultralight backpack.

If you responded yes to all of the questions above, a pack that’s even lighter than the Hyperlite Southwest/Porter/Windrider/Ice Pack could be worthwhile.

Consider a sub one-pound frameless pack e.g. ZPacks Nero, MLD Burn, Katabatic Knick, etc. for fast and light trips. If you have the skills and gear, those models can work well for 7-10 day three-season trips if you are truly going ultralight. Here’s an example: John Wros and I comfortably carried the following in the Burn and Nero: five days of food with 4000 calories per person per day, cold weather clothing (30’s, raining, we walked 40 miles in snow), a 60-meter rope, ice tools, harnesses, stoppers, slings, and strap-on crampons.

I only use a crazy light pack like this approximately once a year. That's because it can only do one thing well.

Getting muddy on the San Juan river! Starting at Mexican Hat and hiking back up Grand Gulch to your car is a great loop. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest and 3400 Porter. 2014.

Warranty and Repair

Hyperlite has an excellent warranty and repair policy. If it’s broken, send it in and they’ll fix it for free or for a reasonable charge.

How I repair my Hyperlite Packs in the Backcountry

The most common repair with any backpack is a small tear. These are easy to fix in the field by cleaning the inside of the fabric—an alcohol wipe is ideal but not necessary—and sticking on some tape. Tyvek tape is great.

How I Permanently Repair my Hyperlite Packs

1.    Clean both sides of the tear and the surrounding 2” with denatured alcohol and a cloth. Let it dry completely.

2.    On the inside of the pack, cover the tear with Tyvek tape or a similar tape.

3.    On the outside of the pack, cover the tear and at least 0.5” around it with Seam Grip. Let dry for 12 hours.

That’s the simplified method. Check out CiloGear’s pack repair video for a lengthy explanation.

Conclusion

If you want a pack that’s light enough for extreme trips, tough enough for long-term use, and versatile for use across a range of applications, I’ve found the Hyperlite Mountain Gear Porter and Southwest are the best available. Dave Chenault, an expert backpack critic, summarized things well when he said, “If I didn’t make my own packs, I’d buy HMG.”

Where to Get It

If you're lucky, Hyperlite packs are sold at your local specialty outdoor store. If not, take a peek at Hyperlite's website. Again, I think their best packs are the:

Hyperlite Moutain Gear Southwest  29-35 ounces, $300-$375

Hyperlite Moutain Gear Porter  31-42 ounces, $300-$420, my favorite all-purpose pack

Glorious ridge walking. Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Southwest Alaska. 2015.

Also, you might be interested in these reviews:

Hyperlite Mountain Gear UltaMid

Feathered Friends Spoonbill

Baranof Island Ridge Traverse

October 29, 2017, 2:54 pm

≫ Next: Fall in Utah

≪ Previous: Hyperlite Mountain Gear Ultralight Backpack Review: Windrider, Porter, Southwest & Ice Pack

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Baranof Island is almost entirely mountains. They rise from the outer coast of Southeast Alaska, steep, rocky, clad with rainforest, and capped by glaciers. Most are rarely visited and many non-technical peaks are unclimbed. In the spring, from almost any point on the interior ridge, you can see dozens of waterfalls pouring thousands of feet into lush valleys, which are home to pristine salmon streams. Grizzly bears are the island’s most frequent backcountry traveler and live here in one of highest densities on the planet.

Our objective was to travel Baranof lengthwise via ridgelines in one trip. I tried last summer. Thanks to support from the American Alpine Club's McNeil-Knott Award, John and I tried this year!

Starting on a rocky beach on the island’s northern-most point, near whales, seals, and salmon, we journeyed south for 60 miles with 36,600 ft. of elevation gain in four and a half days. Though we saw less than half the island’s length, this is the longest known distance a human has been overland in one trip. We carried harnesses, a 60-meter rope, strap-on crampons, ice axes, stoppers, slings, and an 11-ounce can of pepper spray in case we accidentally irritated any other travelers.

We hiked up and down, up and down, up and down. Rainforest. Salmon stream. Tundra. Snow. Rock. Repeat.

It was glorious!

And physically and mentally exhausting.

Besides route planning, the greatest logistical challenge is guessing when precipitation will least affect travel on Baranof. A display in the Stika airport says it rains 60% of the time. But rain isn’t the primary obstacle to mountain travel. It’s what some locals call the cloud dragon, a very dense yet gentle mist monster that slowly soaks everything to its core. Even your sleeping bag underneath a tarp! The dragon also makes it very difficult to see the route of least resistance—more often than not, I’ve found that a phone’s GPS app is the most useful thing to look at.

Come August, rain falls nearly non-stop until it turns to snow.

According to a longtime local mountaineer, this was the snowiest year in the last twenty. We went to Baranof in early and June and found that skis would have been great for most of the ridge. Fortunately, except for a brief bit of whiteout, the cloud dragon remained at bay.

John and I slept in our rain jackets inside synthetic insulated quilt sleeping bags. I put my head inside my backpack.

We walked in the snow for four days wearing trail running shoes with our feet in plastic bags that previously contained M&M’s, Triscuits, and other calories. The plastic bags decrease friction between your socks and shoes—removing the bags is our recommended technique for rock scrambling.

John’s feet are vulnerable to the cold because he has had frostbite and related surgeries. By day four, he was developing trench foot.

Do we continue for another week and risk John’s feet? He was willing to do so. Do I go on alone? It was more dangerous, physically harder, and would require a lot of mental stamina. Do we head down, out of the snow, and back to our homes in the Anchorage area?

Of all the trips I had planned for 2017, this was the one I was most excited about. I was attached to completing the traverse and I cried as I told John I thought we should both bail.

So we walked downhill. Post-holing up to our waists in snowdrifts, slithering through alder and salmonberry, leaping from one slippery log to another, and skirting the edge of a majestic lake surrounded on three sides by granite cliffs and myriad waterfalls.

Baranof, we want to come back!

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This trip was made possible by support from the American Alpine Club. We would also like to thank Nunatak, Mountain Laurel Designs, MSR, ZPacks, Suluk 46, Gaia GPS, Skout Backcountry,Tongass Troll, and Trail Butter for their generous donations.

We both slept in our rain jackets and I put my head inside my backpack. The latter blocked the wind and rain, and was much warmer--perhaps even better than an insulated hood. The things we do to travel quickly through wild places. They make a full-size bed and heated house feel so nice.

Fall in Utah

November 17, 2014, 11:05 am

≫ Next: Place: motivation for moving to Alaska

≪ Previous: Baranof Island Ridge Traverse

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Utah offers many lifetimes of outdoor exploration. This year I’ve been fortunate to explore the southeastern part of the state reasonably well. The map below shows my March trip (purple line) and where I’ve been this fall: San Juan River to Grand Gulch (110 mile red loop), Green River to the Maze to Horseshoe Canyon (130 mile blue and orange loop), and Coyote Gulch (13 mile red loop). The desert landscape is absolutely mesmerizing. Huge arches, natural bridges, muddy rivers, crystal clear creeks, slot canyons, pictographs, Anasazi ruins, desert towers, splitter cracks, cacti, and cryptobiotic soil make exploration engaging. Off trail travel is complicated by cliffs. On trail travel is made more challenging by the lack of water and by walking in deep, beach-like sand. These photos capture a few moments.

Where I've been (on multi-day trips) in Southeastern Utah this year.

The dirty San Juan.

Reading Gary Snyder while waiting over an hour for a car to drive down the road. When it did, we got a ride.

Seldom, Emma, Sarah, and Zeb scamper down a slab on the way to Coyote Gulch.

Jacob Hamlin Arch in Coyote Gulch.

Green River.

Tressa with her paddling game face.

The Dollhouse, Canyonlands, National Park.

Pictographs in Horseshoe Canyon.

Why yes, we'll walk toward the rainbow.

Tressa and I also climbed several desert towers including Castleton Tower, which is in the distance.

Place: motivation for moving to Alaska

March 12, 2015, 11:10 pm

≫ Next: New Job: Climate Change Adaptation for Alaska Native Villages

≪ Previous: Fall in Utah

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After far too much debate about either moving to a place that supports a high income and a prestigious career or a place in close proximity to nature and the activities I love most, I chose the latter. I chose Anchorage, Alaska.

Sarah and I drove here from Utah, via Nebraska and California, on a 6,238-mile road trip. The five-minute video below captures some of the drive's moment's and scenery. 

John McPhee wrote, “Anchorage has the best out-of-town any town has ever had.” This is what I came for; sufficient people and infrastructure with never-be-bored outdoor activities. Based on my experience in the past two months, I’m confident I made an excellent choice.

There's a moose that frequents my street. In the past two months it has a pooped in the front yard twice and the driveway once.

Here are some photos from places within 30 miles of town:

New Job: Climate Change Adaptation for Alaska Native Villages

March 22, 2018, 10:12 pm

≫ Next: Rescued From Mt. Logan’s East Ridge!

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I started a great new job last September. The purpose is to assist the Alaska communities most impacted by climate change with their adaptation efforts. VICE News came up and filmed a piece for HBO about one community. It's an excellent summary of the issue and challenges. Eight engaging minutes. And you can catch a brief glimpse of me in the back of the meeting scene.

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Rescued From Mt. Logan’s East Ridge!

April 29, 2018, 11:19 pm

≫ Next: Long-Term Review: Patagonia 850 Down Sleeping Bags

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A year ago, two friends and I were rescued from 16,000 ft on Mt. Logan’s east ridge while attempting to traverse over the mountain, the largest in the world. Eric had high altitude pulmonary edema and high altitude cerebral edema. This is the story of an ambitious-for-us trip, the mistakes we made, and lessons we learned. 

Mistake + reflection = progress.

I have had a year to reflect.

This is a long write-up. It will take about 20 minutes to read. For a tl;dr version, glance at the photos and skip to conclusion section at the bottom.

East Ridge of Mt Logan as seen from a helicopter. We were rescued from the point where the east ridge meets the summit plateau. The route gains 13,000 ft.

Objective

Mount Logan is the second tallest mountain in North America, the largest mountain in the world by volume, and is surrounded by the world's largest non-polar icefield. A great way to get a sense of this place is to fly from the Lower 48 to Anchorage in a window seat on a cloudless day. By the time the pilot announces the names and elevations of Logan (19,551 ft) and St. Elias (18,009 ft), you'll have flown over 80 miles of glaciers and countless unnamed, unclimbed peaks. Then you'll continue over another 150 miles of glaciers and countless un-named, unclimbed peaks.

On April 6, 2017, Dan, Eric, and I set off with the intent of skiing Mt Vancouver (15,787 ft) then traversing Logan via its East Ridge (Grade VI, 13,000 ft, easy rock climbing, AI2-3, steep snow), and skiing and packrafting to McCarthy, Alaska. In total, the trip would have been around 200 miles.

On April 19, we were rescued from roughly 16,000 ft on Logan by two helicopters. Eric developed high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE). He had a hole in his only sleeping pad and the bottom half of his sleeping bag was wet from a water bottle that leaked the day before. The rescue was supported by approximately 20 Parks Canada employees.

Mt Logan and Vancouver, our objectives, are surrounded by the world's largest non-polar icefield.

Mt. Logan is the largest mountain in the world by volume and has the largest base circumference. The red line shows the route up the East Ridge (at right), across the summit plateau, and down the Kings Trench route. Approximately 13 miles of travel are above 14,000 ft.

Cast of Characters

Eric (left) and Dan walking around Haines Junction before flying into the icefield.

Dan and I are friends from high school. We were on the Nordic and alpine ski teams together. After that, I took a 10-year break from skiing, while Dan continued to pursue all types of skiing. Now, he’s the assistant director of a college outdoor program in Bozeman, Montana.

This trip was low on Dan's list of things to do on his first visit to Alaska. Skiing steep lines in the Chugach was most appealing to him. He agreed to do the Logan traverse only because we'd bring skis. Specifically, we'd carry our skis up 13,000 ft before strapping them on to descend, likely roped together, a maze of crevasses.

Prior to this trip, Dan had been up a 20,000 ft peak in Bolivia—a non-technical, two-day walk up.

Eric and I went to Hampshire College. He has broad, strong shoulders, an infectious smile, and ten times more grit than most people could dream of. Seven years ago, he fell asleep while driving home after paddling a Class V river and broke his leg and feet in a variety of places. His left leg was bolted together at an angle such that his ski veers off to the left each time he strides forward.

Eric has guided many 50-day backpacking and canoeing trips in Southeast Alaska. He did two easier climbing trips to the Alaska Range in 2016, including one with me.
He had a strong desire to reach the summit of Logan. I believe he wanted to prove something to himself and to others. One reason I suggest this is two weeks before we left for this trip Eric started working at a climbing guide service. He may have felt a lot of external pressure to be successful on Logan.

Eric had been up California’s high point and therefore didn’t have any experience with high altitude.

Me
I was really excited about this trip because I wanted to see the place—the largest mountain in the world and a massive icefield—and was keen for an adventure where we moved every day, rather than typical expedition climbing where you wait around for a long time in camp before climbing. Also, I wanted to try something challenging. The four previous big mountain trips I had done were successful. This was an ambitious trip for us, but I felt confident we could do it if we had a weather window.

After the trip, my mom told me:

“Just as you left we gathered for uncle Dennis’ 70th birthday celebration. I talked a lot about your trip, and aunt Jeannie commented that I seemed worried about you. It’s true. I had a bad feeling about this trip for months, but I didn't want to share it with you, so I cooked, and when Dennis blew out his birthday candles I made a wish for your trip!”

Avalanche

I flew in first to our east ridge cache. Tom, the pilot, said, “Alright mate, for the next two hours you’ll be the only person on the world’s largest non-polar icefield.” The nearest person was 65 miles away.

As I was digging the cache, a gigantic avalanche tumbled off Logan’s east ridge, sending a powder cloud 3,000 ft up the ridge across the valley, and then barreling out the main valley toward me. This was the largest avalanche I have seen in my life. It was a potent reminder that I was back in the big mountains. See the photos below.

Avalanche off the East Ridge. The powder cloud in the back right (several miles away) climbed roghly 3000 ft up the adjacent peak before traveling down the valley.

The avalanche powder cloud traveled roughly three miles to the base of the East Ridge.

Mt Vancouver: Asthma Attack or Altitude?
When we reached around 9,000 ft on Mt. Vancouver, on the second day of our trip, Eric began wheezing. Loud, raspy gasps of air. He was in respiratory distress. We skied extremely slow and stopped every few minutes so he could catch his breath. I was mystified and frustrated. This was the first full day of what was supposed be our acclimatization mountain. I knew that if this was happening now, at 9000 ft, it was highly unlikely that Eric would be able to make it up a 19,500 ft peak. Eric took a bunch of puffs of his inhaler, but it didn’t help his wheezing.

Was the problem related to altitude? We went from 2,800 ft. to 9,500 ft. in 24 hours, a reasonable increase.

Though I recall him using an inhaler once on the trip we did together in 2016, I forgot Eric had asthma. He told Dan and I that it had never been a serious issue before. Would it have been reasonable to say no, we shouldn't do a highly committing high altitude trip because we don't know how your body will respond?

In camp that night he said it was an old inhaler. He didn't have the time and money to see a doctor to get a new prescription.

I thought: OMG, you have asthma, this will be the most physically challenging effort of your life, and you brought an ineffective, years-old inhaler!!!!

I used the InReach to message my mother, an alternative health care doctor, to see if she could offer advice.

My mom spread the word to my dad and step-mother, Elsie, who is a medical doctor. Elsie messaged wrote the following:

“Symptoms of life-threatening high altitude pulmonary edema and exercise-induced asthma much the same. The safest course for Eric is lower altitude and rest. Looking forward to your pictures when you return. New baby in the family: Imogen Heidi Freeman-Young.”

My mom sent a note, too:

“Eric and ALL of you need to know the risks you face if you continue. High altitude rescue is difficult. If Albuterol is not helping Eric likely has HAPE.”

In the morning, Eric didn't feel well enough to continue up Vancouver. He proposed that Dan and I do a day trip. Not knowing the cause of Eric’s health problem and fearful of the 3,000 ft of avalanche terrain below us, we decided to descend immediately.

Conditions were PERFECT. Deep, stable powder that fell with no wind. the weather forecast was bluebird with no wind.

Dan, who has worked as an avalanche instructor, said, "This simply does not happen on big mountains." If we had continued up, the 10,000 ft descent may have been the best of our lives. Also, only one party is known to have skied Vancouver before.

Back down on the Hubbard glacier, artery to the Pacific Ocean, delivery driver of storms that bring several feet of snow per hour to the surrounding peaks, we skied 20 miles back to our east ridge gear cache. We traveled unroped at our own pace. Eric arrived in camp almost an hour after Dan and me. Whatever happened on Vancouver, it made him weaker.

Looking up 10,000 ft on Mt Vancouver. We traveled up the slopes in the center and center-right of the image.

Approximately 8,500 ft on Mt Vancouver, when Eric was wheezing and our pace slowed to a n intermittent crawl.

After deciding not to continue up, we skied down Vancouver with heavy packs.

DO YOU THINK THIS WAS ASTHMA OR ALTITUDE?

I’ll summarize the what we knew at this point in the trip:

• Eric said, “My body is slow to adapt.”
• Eric said, “I’ve never had a serious issue with asthma before.”
• 2800 ft. to 10,000 ft. in 24 hours=
• Eric’s pace slowed around 8,000 ft.
• Wheezing & “crawling pace” around 9,500 ft.
• No response to old inhaler
• Exhausted in morning, not able to continue up
• Slower pace skiing to East Ridge cache
• A cough at East Ridge cache

Answer: Asthma Attack

A month after we got back from the trip, I took a Wilderness First Responder course with one of the best instructors in the world. (She spent a decade guiding on Denali, worked with the then-best frostbite doctor in the world, and has 30 years of wilderness travel and risk management experience in Alaska.) She and I discussed the Logan trip in detail and believed Eric had an asthma problem on Vancouver.

High Altitude Cerebral Edema and High Altitude Pulmonary Edema 101

Here are the key differences between HACE and HAPE:

HACE

• Brain swelling
• Mild: Acute Mountain Sickness, headache, nausea, fatigue
• Moderate: severe headache, disoriented, sluggish, sensitivity to light, vomit
• Severe: brain failure, death
• Treatment: descend

HAPE

• Fluid in lungs
• Symptoms: cough, shortness of breath at rest, difficulty walking
• Treatment: Dexamethasone injection, descend

Do we go up!?

We rested for two full days back at our east ridge cache. The weather was perfect: bluebird with no wind.

Eric was plum exhausted, recovering from some type of illness or infection. He was coughing regularly. I asked him about his health and felt that he didn’t respond openly or honestly.

“How are you feeling?”
“I’m fine.”
“What does that mean?”
“Everything is good.”
“If a doctor asked you how you were feeling, from 1-100, what would you say?”
“I don’t know. I can’t tell. Honestly, I rarely feel 100%”

Meanwhile, without telling us, my mom tried to coordinate the rapid purchase and delivery of a new inhaler for Eric. She talked to Sarah, our in-town contact, Eric’s brother Aaron who lives in Chicago and was giving us daily weather forecasts, and Sian at the air taxi. No one was planning to fly into East ridge for several weeks. Otherwise, my mom would have overnighted an inhaler to Haines Junction and had it flown in.

“As you likely know, Wendy is very concerned about Eric and believes he should be flown out.” - Sarah

“From a satellite’s view, North America’s coastal rainforests appear as a delicate fringe adorning the western rim of the continent… Among these forests’ entire length, a succession of mountain ranges forms a natural bulwark between the Pacific Ocean and the rest of the continent, and it is here that the storms which trundle continually across the North Pacific are stopped in their tracks. Rainclouds, appearing as airborne water bladders, burst open when they collide with the cooler air of the coastal mountains and the results can be astonishing.” -Sarah

I was a ball of stress—nervous about whether it was reasonable to carry on with our plan to go up and over the largest mountain on the planet via a committing route with a friend who wasn’t healthy. I tried not to show my stress or concern to Dan or Eric.

My mom sent a message, which I chose not to share with Eric and Dan.

"NOW is the time to lead Max- you have + experience/ let your heart and intuition guide u.”

I thought about proposing that we tour around Logan with a mobile basecamp, skiing lines that caught our attention. But how could we bail when the forecast was perfect!?


With one night at 10,000 ft, we were not acclimatized. If we had stuck with our plan, we would have spent a couple days above 14,000 ft on Vancouver and been able to travel faster and lighter on Logan.

I took my shirt off and lounged on my sleeping pad outside the tent, soaking in all of the sun that bounced off the surrounding peaks. I tried to ignore my gut feeling, which said not to go up.

Resting for two days at our East Ridge cache. I was stressed and anxious about continuing, but pretended everything was OK.

Launch

We launched in a heavy alpine style with eight days of food and ten days of fuel. 

To our knowledge, no one else has carried skis up Logan’s east ridge. It’s a silly idea! Ski boots are neither as warm nor comfortable as climbing boots. Our skis, bindings, and poles weighed more than eight additional pounds per person. We also brought a 28 oz ski repair kit that included glue, wire, and a Leatherman with drill bits. Why? Becuase we wanted to do a ski traverse.

Approaching the East Ridge

Eric and I disagreed on the best schedule for our ascent. I argued we should go up three ish thousand feet the first day, while he advocated we camp immediately upon gaining the east ridge.

When we gained the ridge, we estimated it would take a couple of hours to dig a tent platform into the steep snow, so we continued upwards for few hours until we found a flat-ish site a few feet wider than our tent. I could tell he was angry that we had pushed on this far.

Our stove had been performing poorly and refused to fire up when we started dinner. Eric, who is excellent at stove repair, spent an hour swapping parts, peppering the apparatus with curse words. He got it running again!


I stayed outside the tent, bundled up in several thousand dollars insulation and melted snow for dinner, cooked dinner, and filled our bottles with melted snow. I checked for messages found one from my dad:

“Max. Be careful not to take a chance on risking Eric’s life”

And another message from my uncle, Dennis:

“Jesus Max. Be careful and good luck as you head up and across that mighty ridge.”

I was extremely nervous about continuing. I knew it was a bad idea, but I bottled my feelings until the morning when we talked as a group.

We were concerned about descending. As we continued upwards, getting down would become more challenging and dangerous. We brought only the bare minimum climbing gear—no snow pickets, no belay devices, no extra cord for making anchors, just one locking carabiner per person, some slings, a few ice screws, and a 60m 6mm rope.

We were also concerned about the performance of our stove. If the stove stopped working, we’d need to descend immediately.
I expressed my concern about Eric’s health. He said that it was hard for him to keep up with Dan and me on skis, and the best he felt the entire trip was when we were mixed climbing yesterday. He was really excited to finally be climbing technical pitches.

What Eric didn’t share until after our rescue, when we were at the Parks Canada office about to enter a rescue debrief meeting, was that he was feeling exhausted that day. If we had known this, we should have descended.

The weather forecast continued to be perfect, giving us plenty of time to bail if needed. We chose to continue. Dan said, “there’s no reason not to.” (He later said that he underestimated the East Ridge.)

I watched as Dan broke trail up a steep 30-foot slope without pausing. As Eric followed, he stopped to rest six times. I counted. That evening in the tent I quietly mentioned to Dan that I was worried about Eric’s pace and our ability to make it over the mountain. I incorrectly assumed Eric was asleep.

In the morning, Eric was the first person out of the tent and was ready to go, sitting on his pack, at least twenty minutes before Dan and me. He had flaked the rope out and tied into the trailing end. This was the unspoken end to his leading. From here on Dan and I would break trail.

The weather continued to be perfect as we gained elevation. It was as if the mountains held the Pacific storms at bay and whispered, “Gentlemen, here we are. Try your best.”

We continued up.

Carrying all of that food, frigid weather gear, and ski gear was really challenging for me. My pack was unwieldy, my skis would jam into rocks when climbing those sections, and putting on and taking off the pack required a lot of effort. Many areas of the ridge were too narrow or too steep to take the pack off.

Important News

At the end of his daily forecast, Eric’s brother shared some important news to keep us informed of global happenings. Here are some of the updates he 

April 6
Scientist says human body contains less Kcal than a mammoth

April 8
Octopuses can edit their own genes

April 10
New supreme court justice sworn in and giraffe born in online video

April 11
Marijuana deemed kosher for passover. Alabama governor resigns for sex.”

April 14
Scorpion falls from overhead bin and stings United passenger mid-flight (whoops).”

April 15
Star Wars Last Jedi came out today :)

On this day, I wrote to my parents, 

“Eric is doing much better. He’s slower than Dan and I due to altitude, but there aren’t any signs of lung problems.”

“Hey Eric - hope all is going well on your trip. Love Dad.”

“Thanks Dad! We are well at 10500 ft. Hope you’re well. Love E.”

April 16
This is the day Eric got sick.

“Engineers find shoelaces come untied bc of cascade of forces sort of like an avalanche.”

We were near 15,200 ft, only a hundred feet below a potential camp location, when Eric’s pace dropped to a crawl. He untied from the rope and insisted we keep going to camp. When he arrived, I asked Eric and Dan how they felt. Eric said, “I feel worthless.” Dan said, “I feel like a million bucks!”

I was so impressed and envious that the altitude had almost no effect on Dan.
Feeling weaker and with a bit of a headache, I was somewhere in between them.
The wind was whipping around the ridge, making everything colder and more difficult. I anchored my pack to the snow with two ice tools while we pitched the tent and made dinner, which took almost three hours.

Reflecting on this moment later, Eric recalled trying to dig a T-trench to bury a ski pole, which served to anchor the tent. It was taking him a long time so Dan came over and took the ice tool out of his hand, and finished the job. At the time, Eric didn’t think anything of this. In retrospect, forty-eight hours after our rescue, he realized it was one of many things that demonstrated his poor mental and physical condition.

I climbed into the tent after Eric, who didn’t have enough energy to flip his sleeping pad right-side up. We discussed staying put the following day so he could rest.

I sent a message to Sarah, “Not sure if Eric will be able to move tomorrow. We are nervous about getting up and over with enough fuel (several days left).”
April 17

“Katherine Switzer, 1st woman to run Boston Marathon in 1967, runs again today @ 70yo.”

Except to pee once, Eric didn’t leave his sleeping bag this day. He said he had never felt worse in his life—a 10 out of 10 headache. He covered his eyes with his Buff and hat, and lay in his sleeping bag eating nothing but a few bagel chips all day.

My mom sent a message:

Consider HACE. High Altitude Cerebral Edema early sx Bad HA, exhaustion, confused. Then dizzy, photophobia, fast heartbeat, alt mental state. If + down or evac.

April 18

“Clear today, tmrw, next day. 15mph NE wind.” Wind picking up tmrw (20) and day after (30). Scientists discover a giant (3+ ft!) clam.”
Eric was feeling much better when he woke up, likely thanks to Diamox, a high altitude drug. I advocated that we continue upwards to get onto the edge of the summit plateau. Dan and I agreed it was the best plan, if Eric could do it, because a helicopter would be able to land.

We left camp around noon, scrambled through a bunch of giant ice blocks, and climbed up the final steep snow slope. This was the scariest moment of my life to date. I was leading up the 60-degree styrofoam snow ridge without any protection. We had traversed over such that there was a 9,000-foot drop beneath us. Eric had just emerged from 36 hours in his sleeping bag. He was weak and his brain was not working well.

I counted 10 steps before stopping so we could all rest. I kicked my feet sideways into the hard snow to take the weight off my calves and looked down between my legs to see Eric resting with his face buried in his arms. I did the same. I thought, ”Please, please be strong. We can do this. We can get up this final steep section”
We repeated this sequence—10 steps, rest, pray, 10 steps, rest, pray—for several hundred feet. It felt like an eternity.

The slope became gentle as we reached the summit plateau. Eric decided to unclip from the rope so he could walk at a crawl. Dan was almost unaffected by altitude and offered to carry Eric’s entire pack, which would not have been possible without repacking. Eric said no.

We crawled another twenty minutes until a giant flat area appeared. I was immensely relieved that we had reached the plateau! The technical climbing was over. We could make it over the rest of the mountain by walking and skiing. And a helicopter could land here!!

I was feeling the altitude—sluggish and a bit drunk. Eric was really out of it. It took him almost a half hour to go poo. He walked a little ways away and then stared out into the distance, at Vancouver, St. Elias, the sprawling icefield. After some time, Dan saw that Eric was making no effort to go poo, so he waved at him. Eric waved back and continued to look confused.

Dan and I discussed our situation: Eric could not move fast enough to make it over the mountain in our remaining two-day weather window. We didn’t know his health status, but he was clearly far from his normal energetic and sharp self.

Mt Vancouver from Logan's East Ridge.

Do we call for a rescue?

The snow on the summit plateau was ice-hard sastrugi. We chipped away at it for hours and cut a few blocks with the snow saw to pitch the tent. Eric’s brain was not working well and his physical capacity was perhaps 10% of normal. It took him an hour and a half to move a dozen snow blocks in front of the tent. Even though we said he didn’t need to move them—we could do it later—he insisted on finishing the task. Then, when he climbed into the tent, he discovered he didn’t adequately clear ice from the threads on his water bottle. It leaked. The lower third of his sleeping bag was soaked and frozen. Also, something sharp punctured the bottom of his inflatable sleeping pad. (This model has a very tough bottom. You have to be careless to pop it.)

The three of us discussed our options. Winds were forecast to increase significantly and a storm might come in a few days. We had two days of food for three people and perhaps four days of fuel. Getting over to the Kings Trench (the descent route) was about fifteen miles, with a high point of 18,600 ft if we continued with our original route. Alternatively, we could traverse around the east side of the mountain to avoid gaining altitude in the near-term, but would later need to go over an 18,000 ft pass. Eric was not physically capable of either of these options.

We could either descend or try to get a rescue.

We guessed that descending would require belaying or lowering Eric down most of the 9,000 ft route. The main concern was poor snow quality. It was highly faceted and therefore terrible for building anchors of any type. Also, there was very little ice. We only placed two reliable ice screws on our way up! Ascending without adequate protection was scary enough. If we belayed or rappelled 75% of the descent, it would require at least 34 anchors, most of which we’d need to fashion with our skis. It would be quite dangerous and take a couple days.

Eric eventually said, “I would never call for a rescue.”

That statement sealed the deal. Eric's brain was not functioning normally and he was not taking risk into account. Therefore, was no longer part of group decision-making. 

At 19:22 I sent Sarah a series of messages.

“Dan and I would like you to arrange a rescue for Eric as soon as possible tomorrow.”

“We have three days of food, a finicky stove with one broken fuel pump (no backup). Eric’s sleeping pad is broken (trying to fix now, no backup). And Eric’s bag is wet from spilled water today. Dan and I will try to go over and down as soon as possible.”

“Please update my mom in the morning. Not sure if it’s best to share all of this (immense worry) or just wait until he is rescued.”

Sarah responded, 

“She wants to know everything. I’ll try to be discretionary. Will act on all of this now. Take care of yourselves.”

Dan and I assumed Parks Canada would also pluck us off the mountain. But, in case that didn’t happen, we intended to carry on as a party of two.

Dan on the edge of the summit plateau the morning of our rescue.

Parks Canada Launches a Rescue

Sarah called the Parks Canada headquarters in Jasper, Alberta to relay our messages. The employee there worked down a list of Kluane Park staff, calling cell phones until Scott answered. He reached out to other folks, notifying them to prepare for a rescue in the morning. A gentleman named Ian is the only helicopter pilot in Yukon that’s trained in high altitude rescue. Scott called him to request that he change his plans for the rescue.

4/19
A team of approximately fifteen Parks Canada rescue personnel met at 7 AM to plan the rescue. They discussed weather with the Park meteorologist, looked at our location in Google Earth, engaged a ground support team of four highly trained mountain guides from Banff, who hopped in plane and began the trip north to Whitehorse in case they needed to climb the route or assist with a technical rescue.

I got up early and spent over an hour answering Scott’s questions:

• exact location?
• slope angle?
• could you land a helicopter? 
• hazards above/below?
• stomp out a landing zone?
• width of ridge at that point?
• how much food and fuel do you have?
• where is your next cache?
• what is your current wind and visibility?
• Eric’s condition: respirations/minute, heart rate, level of consciousness, lungs producing phlegm, blood, ability to walk?

Sarah sent a note:

“Sending 2 machines. 2-3 hours out. Stomp down an area for landing before they arrive. They will drop a bag with a sat phone and radio for immediate comm. and will base their operation from a site on the ridge below you, a few min flight away. Bag drop will also contain food, stove, etc. First priority is Eric. Scott will talk with you later about you and Dan. Please confirm with me that Eric is capable of getting into a harness (walk 50 ft)”

I asked Eric how he was doing, and he said, “I’m fine.”

He seemed to be angry that a rescue was coming. For a long time, he stood near camp looking out at the icefield.

Eric on the morning we were rescued.

I was immensely relieved that everything was on track to work out and that no one was going to end up dead on the side of the mountain.

“Message from our mom is that she sends Eric her love! (althoughEric may be unhappy she that she knows about the evac.” - Aaron

“Depending on E’s health situation I can get to Whitehorse/etc within 24 hours.”  - Aaron

 “That’s not necessary. Eric isn’t able to continue safely but will likely feel good as soon as soon as he gets to a lower elevation. Will keep you posted.” -Max

“Hi Eric- understand you have altitude sickness and are on your way out. Let me know that goes. Best wishes and feel better. Love dad.”

“Please don’t worry. A ok here. I’ll send you a text when I’m back in civilization. Love Eric.”

“Your party of 2 will not be ascending up and over to the trench. Safest option is for your to descend. What is your ability to climb down with Dan?” -Scott

“We well acclimatized and strongly believe the easiest, safest, and fastest option is to exit via the trench. We COULD descend the east ridge, but feel that would be much harder and more dangerous.” -Max

It was a glorious day. Clear skies and no wind. The helicopter arrived mid-afternoon. After scoping out the landing area, Scott dropped a rescue bag with a radio. Eric left his pack with us and flew down to the base of the ridge.

The rescue operation set up a base beneath the east ridge. Scott called the lead Parks Canada physician, who spoke with Eric and confirmed his symptoms appeared to be HACE.

They came back up to grab me and Dan, and all of our gear.

Inside the helicopter before lifting off from the East Ridge.

When I climbed in, I accidentally unplugged Scott’s oxygen with my ski boot. He noticed immediately and turned around, grasping his oxygen mask, to say, “My oxygen. My oxygen.” I found the cord and plugged it back in.

He later explained that going from sea level to 16,000 ft without oxygen would turn a healthy, fit adult into a something that resembled a helpless, crawling baby.

We waited a little while to burn some fuel, to lose weight, before taking off. Then, up we went, and over the edge of the plateau! An experience I’ll never forget. See the video below.

Back at the operations base, we breathed thicker, warmer air and we shook hands with the three rescue staff and two pilots who had come to get us. Dan and I check in with Eric, who told us, “I wish we had descended.”

I forgive him because his brain was far from its normal condition.

The rescue team refueled both machines from a 50-gallon drum and we loaded heaps of duffel bags, skis, and our own gear inside. Then we lifted off again for a stunning flight across the icefield.

Eric and Dan on the flight back to Haines Junction

Eric declined medical treatment at the Haines Junction clinic.

We went to the local bar to get burgers and beers. We didn’t talk about what had happened. I tried to be happy and thankful that we were all alive and back to safety, but I felt Eric was angry. He watched the hockey game on TV and didn't say much. 

That night was a highlight of the trip. Eric slept in the front seat of the car while Dan and I laid our sleeping bags out under the stars. We talked for a long time about what happened.  Around midnight, the aurora came out. Bright green rays danced across the sky for hours!! We stayed up to at least 2 AM watching the sky, chatting from the comfort of our sleeping bags, and absorbing plenty of oxygen with each breath.

Sleeping out under the aurora near Haines Junction the night after our rescue.

In the morning, we debriefed the rescue with Parks Canada staff and drove 11.5 hours back to Anchorage. Midway, at a pee stop, Eric called us over with a wave of his hand and said, “Gentleman, I apologize for putting your lives at risk.” After a short pause, he said, “That’s it. As you were.”

I really appreciated the apology.

Eric’s brother bought him a flight to Chicago, where he stayed for a week. Then he had an appointment scheduled with a high altitude doctor in Seattle. Dan and I spent close to a week in Anchorage relaxing and then went on a low-risk skiing-packrafting expedition in the Alaska Range for two weeks.

Conclusion

Overall, this trip was an invaluable learning experience for me. One primary takeaway was that I should trust my gut feelings. I ignored a variety of concerns that, given the consequences associated with our objective, led to serious problems. Another is that being "big mountain smart" requires a lot of experience. Now, I've done five "big" mountain expeditions (over three months traveling on (not to) those mountains) I feel that I now I know what I don't know, which is a critical step in making good decisions. 

Here is a list of the things I feel we did well at and could have improved upon:

STRENGTHS

• Technical skills (climbing, skiing, snow science, gear; repair, winter camping, etc.) These were more than sufficient;
• Logistics (emergency communication plan, two acclimatization schedules, food, gear, etc.); 
• We had a high level of trust in each other.

AREAS FOR IMPROVEMENT

• More open and honest communication. This was our largest weakness;
• We had no plan B or C, which made anything but plan A seem like a failure and pushed it on that path;
• Even though Dan took a Wilderness First Responder recertification course immediately before our trip, and Eric was Wilderness First Responder certified, we had a poor understanding of HACE, HAPE, and altitude medications. I recommend doing lots of research about altitude health issues;
• Our physical performance suggested that Eric and I should have done considerably more training. Dan was in excellent shape from ski guiding all winter at elevation in Colorado. I was working 40+ hours per week in an office job. If doing a similarly dangerous and challenging trip like this in the future, I’d place a large emphasis on training. 
• We did not discuss our medical history. This was a huge mistake. In the future, I will not go on a similar trip with someone who has asthma and has not been to high altitude before;
• We didn’t discuss leadership roles. On this trip, we didn’t need a dedicated leader, but it would have been wise to determine who leads decision-making for certain subjects and situations;
• We didn’t have an adequate system to ensure everyone had their gear and food prepared by the time we met up in Anchorage;
• Dan underestimated the East Ridge. He later said that the ridge was much more difficult to protect and scary than he expected. We also had poor snow conditions;
• I could have been more compassionate;
• We did not have a medical consultant. Using my mother as the medical contact was very stressful for her. On all future expeditions or risky trips, I will have a medical professional serve as the consultant for any issues that arise on our trip;
• Communicating with lots of people was stressful and degraded the experience of being in a wild place. In the future, I may consider communicating only with my in-town contact person.

Long-Term Review: Patagonia 850 Down Sleeping Bags

March 27, 2017, 12:34 am

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I’ve spent over ten weeks on backcountry trips in Patagonia's three sleeping bags. I've also had several conversations with Casey Shaw, lead designer for Patagonia’s sleeping bags, to learn more about materials, baffle design, and their rationale for certain design choices. Here, I share mini-reviews for each bag. 

Bottom Line: 

19 Degree: Best all-purpose sleeping bag on the market if you value comfort more than weight savings.

30 Degree: I rarely recommend a mummy bag in this temperature range and the Patagonia 30 Degree is not as warm for its weight as the competition. Not recommended for anything. But it looks snazzy!

Hybrid: Best in class for winter alpinism when you might need to sleep sitting on a ledge without a tent. That's the only application I recommend it for.

Patagonia sleeping bags, left to right: 19 Degree (32.9 oz), 30 Degree (26.5 oz.), and Hybrid (17.3 oz.)

PERFORMANCE COMPARISON

19 Degree Sleeping Bag

•  32.9 ounces
•  If you value comfort, it's the best "all-purpose" sleeping bag in the world
•  $499, available from Patagonia    

VERDICT

Based on using this bag for nine weeks of backcountry travel, comparing it to over 20 competing bags, testing it side-by-side with its closest competitors, testing around 70 sleeping bags for outdoorgerlab.com, and talking extensively with its designer, my conclusion is:

The Patagonia 19 Degree is the best all-purpose sleeping bag on the market if you value comfort more than weight savings.

Sleeping in the Patagonia 19 Degree bag in Wrangell St. Elias National Park, Alaska.

The Patagonia 19 Degree bag's center zipper allows you to use your hands while your head is under the bag's hood.

The 19 Degree is not as warm for its weight as a super puffy, slim-cut mummy bag, but it’s considerably more comfortable. That’s the tradeoff with all-purpose bags: opt either for a thermally efficient cut that’s great for use below freezing or a more comfortable cut for a better sleep above in above freezing temperatures, which when we used the bag most!

Thus, if you want a sleeping bag that’s excellent for car camping, basecamps, and also performs reasonably well for backpacking, climbing, and other weight-saving wild adventures the 19 Degree is worth considering.

The 19 Degree bag has three zippers so you can vent, use our hands with your head and shoulders covered, tie into a climbing anchor, or sit up cross-legged. This is one of many ways the bag increases comfort compared to slim-cut, side zippered mummy bags.

COMFORT

The 19 Degree bag’s design strikes an excellent balance between warmth, weight, and comfort, with an emphasis is on comfort.  The center zip makes it easier to use your arms while inside the bag, for eating and cooking, for example.

I find the hood to be slightly more comfortable than those of Western Mountaineering and Feathered Friends’ design. Western Mountaineering hoods are notorious for smushing the drawcord against your forehead when pulled tight. (It's not a big deal, but I'm surprised they haven't fixed it.) When cinched tight, the 19 Degree's hood does a good job at drawing the bag tight around the base of your neck, which helps to seal in warm air. 

The foot box is far superior to the traditional tunnel design used by most companies: it’s spacious enough for a water bottle and electronics and allows your feet to be unrestricted when perpendicular to the ground. Truly great work with the foot box!

The 19 Degree foot box flipped inside out. I've found Patagonia foot boxes are far more comfortable than traditional "tunnel" designs.

If you like to sleep naked or with your dog, you’ll appreciate that, like the Hybrid bag, the Houdini fabric is also used on the interior of the 19 Degree. Patagonia could have saved an ounce or two by using a lighter fabric, but they went with the Houdini because its textured yarn is more comfortable against the skin. Casey said, “I like to sleep naked.”

I climbed from this bag into a Katabatic Gear quilt, a Feathered Friends mummy, and a Western Mountaineering mummy to compare the interior fabrics against bare skin. I agree the 19 Degree feels softer. I suspect it will also feel less sticky if you get too hot and sweaty. Another potential benefit: Casey says the Houdini’s textured yarn reduces the cold chill that’s common when climbing into a cold bag with a smooth, tightly woven fabric. (Friction from sliding into the bag heats air at the surface of the fabric and traps it in the texture.)

The other less significant advantage of using the Houdini fabric for the interior is durability. Applications for this include cozying up with your dog or wearing a climbing harness and boots. 

The 19 Degree bag is very spacious from the knees all the way to the shoulders. The cut is too big to be optimally thermally efficient for skinny people, but it provides extra comfort and should fit folks with bigger builds well. The other obvious advantage to a larger cut is there's space for puffy jackets and pants.

Western Mountaineering Versalite, left, and Patagonia 19 Degree, right. Both bags weigh almost the same amount, but the Versalite 10 degrees warmer, costs $75 more, and is not as comfortable (generally and especially in the hood) as the 19 Degree.

Vertical Baffles

A variety of sleeping bags use vertical baffles, which stabilize down better than continuous horizontal baffles and, according to Casey, who did the math, save a small amount of weight. Some companies like Marmot, Brooks Range Big Agnes use Isotec Flow construction, which consists of two pieces of overlapping mesh that separate the inside of the chamber. This design makes it faster to fill the sleeping bag. (Insert the tube, pump 10g down into one chamber, pull the tube out to the next chamber, fill, and repeat.) Insotect Flow is not a proper baffle, however. Down might shift from one chamber to another. Patagonia uses proper baffles, see the ugly seam at the lower third of the bag, which will keep down in place for the life of the bag.

WEIGHT

The 19 Degree is one of many premium sleeping bags that weigh around 32 oz. and have around 20 oz. of the best down fill. The main drawback to the 19 Degree bag compared to the other premium mummy bags is its slightly lower warmth to weight ratio. Adding extra volume, the tougher and more comfortable interior fabric, and the generous foot box reduces the warmth compared to slim-cut mummy bags that weigh the same amount. For example, the Western Mountaineering Versalite, and even more so, Feathered Friends Lark UL 10, aren’t as comfortable and don’t have the stunning detailing of the 19 Degree, but they’re considerably warmer. An ever more successful example is my Katabatic Gear Grenadier, which weighs almost the same amount as the 19 Degree insize long and keeps me warm down to around 10 degrees while wearing only light baselayers and a down hood—it’s my go-to winter sleeping bag. Unfortunately, both of those bags are less comfortable than the 19 Degree. The Grenadier, for example, a few minutes of fiddling with straps to attach the bag to your pad, it’s very narrow in the feet and legs, and when it’s well below freezing I find that I need to adjust the cords each time I shift from my back to my side to prevent drafts. There’s no doubt about it: wider mummy bags are more comfortable. But there is a threshold where the comfort benefit of increasing width do not exceed costs of increased weight and reduced thermal efficiency. I believe this threshold lies somewhere around the Patagonia 19 Degree bag. An example of a bag that crosses the threshold is the Nemo Nocturne, which has lots of room in the lower legs and weighs six ounces more than the 19 Degree.

Comparing single-sided loft of the Patagonia 19 Degree, left, to the Katabatic Gear Grenadier quilt at right. The Grenadier has a 5-degree rating and weighs two ounces less than the Patagonia 19.

WARMTH

If you want to own all-purpose bag that performs well in winter without wearing a jacket, this is not the best option. (The Feathered Friends Lark UL 10 would be my top choice.)

Sleeping bag dorks will notice Patagonia chose not to include a full draft collar at the neck. Instead, there’s an extra-large baffle that helps to seal out cold air without require snapping and cinching. I support this decision because a full collar is only necessary when temperatures are below freezing. Again, wear a jacket or get a warmer bag for frequent use below freezing.

The super stuffed neck baffle. Though it doesn't snap together and cinch, like 10-degree bags from other companies, it's a no-fuss way to seal in hot air.

CONCLUSION

If saving weight is your top priority, get a quilt. (Generally, Katabatic Gear offers the best performance and Enlightened Equipment the best value.) If you want an all-purpose bag for everything, and value comfort more than saving a few ounces, I believe the Patagonia 19 degree sets the new standard.

READ THE BACKPACKINGLIGHT.COM REVIEW
For more information about this bag, read the long, detailed review I wrote for BackpackingLight.com.

850 Down Hybrid Sleeping Bag

• 17.3 ounces
• $299, available from Patagonia
• Best for alpinists who sleep sitting on tiny ledges

VERDICT

I’ve used this bag four nights, each between 10 and 20 degrees, paired with four different parkas, and believe it’s the best one person sleeping bag for hardcore alpinism. The bag is ideal for alpine routes (rock, ice, and snow) that require a toasty warm parka and have a high probability of you sleeping sitting upright. For everything else, a top quilt is warmer for its weight and therefore better.

BACKSTORY + PERFORMANCE

Yvonn Chouinard loves elephant foot sleeping bags and wanted Patagonia to make one. Ambassadors and designers had mixed feelings about this style of bag, but the project went forward with enthusiasm when Duncan Ferguson, a veteran climber, suggested adding a windproof fabric to the top. This is the key feature that distinguishes it from the competition. 

Specifically, the uninsulated Houdini fabric on top of the bag, a 1.2 oz ,15-denier with a high tear strength,  serves several purposes:

• Increases warmth by trapping hot air and reducing convective heat loss
• Prevents blowing snow from getting on your parka and inside the pockets, where your hands most likely are
• Protects your delicate parka from sharp, abrasive rocks
• Increases comfort by allowing you to tuck your head into the hood and feel as if you are inside a normal sleeping bag

Of all the sleeping bags I’ve used, the Hybrid was the first to place a more durable fabric on the interior. This addresses the greater abrasion and higher probability of tearing the fabric from wearing boots inside the sleeping bag. (it might not fail, for example, if you snag a lace hook when inserting or removing your boots.)

COMPETITION

The Hybrid bag has two main competitors:

Brooks Range Elephant Foot – the insulated area is slightly warmer, but the bag is heavier and costs $150 more. I don’t recommend it.

Feathered Friends Vireo – $9 more, one ounce less, 25 degrees of insulation in the lower half and 45 up top. I’ve used the Vireo with insulated pants and a parka down to -15 F. I love that the insulation and fabric extend to the shoulders because it’s much more comfortable than a true elephant foot like the Brooks Range model. I’ve found the Vireo to be better than the Patagonia Hybrid for warmer weather alpine climbing because it has insulation on top and can be used with a light down jacket.

CONCLUSION

I believe the Vireo and Patagonia Hybrid are only worth purchasing if you’re a hardcore climber and may sleep sitting up on a ledge without room for two people, a circumstance that’s rare even for pro climbers.

I’ve found the best way to save a lot of weight is to use a two-person sleeping bag. The 41 oz. Feathered Friends Spoonbill works well for two people in very cold temperatures and the ZPacks Twin Quilt, available in 10, 20, 30, and 40-degree options, is great for everything else.

30 Degree Sleeping Bag

• 26.5 ounces
• If saving weight is the goal, you’re better off with a quilt or box-baffled, hoodless mummy
• $399, available only from Patagonia      

VERDICT
Overall, the 30 Degree doesn't perform as well as its competitors. Patagonia should have taken additional measures to increase the warmth to weight ratio, such as by using a lighter interior fabric. Though I'm sure many people will buy it, I believe Patagonia should have built a lightweight quilt instead of this bag--that would have been a significant contribution to the ultralight community and many of Patagonia's weight-saving customers would have been much happier. 

The Patagonia 30 Degree sleeping bag is cut slimmer than the 19 Degree, has a half-length zipper, and sewn-through baffles. Even with these "minimalist" features, the bag is not as warm for its weight as many of its competitors.

The sewn-through construction is not as warm a box baffled bag; the EN Lower Limit rating is 30 degrees, which usually translates to comfort outdoors down to around 40 degrees, even less for some folks who sleep cold. As with similar models from other companies, such as the Feathered Friends Merlin UL 30 and Western Mountaineering SummerLite, the Patagonia 30 Degree is not warm enough to serve as an all-purpose bag. Consequently, I don’t recommend this type of sleeping bag. If you're going to have one bag, it's worth spending more and carrying the extra weight of a warmer bag. But could it be worth buying for folks who want to save weight in warmer weather? If you’re adamantly opposed to a quilt, yes. (The Feathered Friends Hummingbird UL 20 weighs 1.5 ounces less than the Patagonia 30, has box baffles, has a higher warmth to weight ratio, and for these reasons is my favorite lightweight mummy bag.) Otherwise, a quilt is warmer for its weight, more versatile due to the adjustable girth, and costs the same amount or less. Look to Katabatic Gear.

I’ll leave the 30 Degree discussion on a positive note:  As you saw in the first photo, this may be the most aesthetically pleasing sleeping bag out there. The baby blue color is gorgeous; unlike flat, box-baffled bags the puffy vertical baffles and half-length center zip have a striking appearance; and the contrast between the bright orange interior is wonderful. If only all sleeping bags looked this good!

The Best Synthetic Insulated Jackets of 2018 Review

May 18, 2018, 2:27 am

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What's the best synthetic insulated jacket for you? The answer may lie in the Synthetic Insulated Jacket State of the Market Report and 16 associated reviews that were recently published by BackpackingLight.com. I worked on that project for two years. The reviews total around 30,000 words and are the best summary of synthetic insulated jackets on the internet. This post intends to serve as a "too long; didn't read" synthesis of that work. I summarize the main takeaways, describe my favorite models, and share a few things I've learned since the articles were published.

3 Primary Points of Advice

1. Try several jackets before making a decision. You will not be able to make an informed decision about what is best for you until you have tried a wide range of jackets. After you decide what type of jacket is best for you (e.g. windproof, active insulation, synthetic insulated parka), I recommend buying three of the top models in that category to test out. For example, if you want an active insulation jacket, consider the three I recommend below. Experimenting with a wide range of warmth and air permeability--models on the far ends of those spectrums--will give you a sense for what is best for your body, activities, and climate. Research is not enough; you must try the outlying models for yourself.

Try them at home with the tags on and return some, or all, if you aren't happy. Better yet, try them for a month outdoors, make a decision, and return the ones that didn't work well for you. Patagonia lists "Did not like design" on their return form.

2. Consider an active insulation jacket. These offer the best blend of comfort and weather protection for active use in colder weather. I rarely use anything but active insulation jackets. Air permeable insulated jackets are not as warm for their weight as windproof models, but they are far more versatile, more comfortable, and perform better in wet conditions because they dry faster. (Nothing is warm when it's wet!)

3. Synthetic insulated parkas are rarely worth purchasing. Combining an active insulation jacket with a windproof synthetic insulated jacket can achieve the same amount of warmth and also be more comfortable and more versatile. See the BPL State of the Market Report for a lengthy discussion on this topic including other reasons not to buy a synthetic insulated parka.

The Best Models Available Today

Patagonia Nano Air Light

I have used the Nano Air Light for at least six weeks of multi-day ski mountaineering and alpine climbing trips. If I were to have one synthetic insulated jacket for everything, I'd choose this one. Chugach State Park, Alaska.

If I were to have one synthetic insulated jacket, I'd choose the Patagonia Nano Air Light. It has an ideal amount of warmth for active use in cold weather or when worn under a waterproof jacket in cold rain. Add a low to zero air permeable fabric on top, such as a windshell or hardshell, and it's reasonably warm for stationary use. Add a windproof synthetic insulated jacket on top, such as the Nunatak Skaha described below, and you have a toasty warm winter layering setup.

The Nano Air Light is designed for alpinists. Consequently, the main drawback to this jacket is it doesn't have handwarmer pockets or a full-length zipper. Consider one of the two models below if those features are important to you.

Patagonia Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody

Enjoying the Patagonia Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody on a glorious day ski mountaineering in Chugach National Forest, Alaska.

The Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody has become my go-to for all activities for the last four months. It could be the most versatile insulated jacket in existence today. I like it for these reasons:

1. It is incredibly comfortable. The majority of the jacket (the back, sides, and underarms) are made of a knit material that is stretchy, soft against the skin, and twice as breathable as the Nano Air Light jacket described above. I find that this jacket moves with my body like no other.

2. An excellent amount of warmth and weather protection for active use. Many manufacturers use claims like "put it on, leave it on" when advertising active insulation jackets. In variable conditions, those claims rarely hold true. Enter the Hybrid Hoody! Excess heat escapes out the back and side panels, the high-loft insulation and moderately air permeable fabrics on the front insulate your torso and resist strong wind, you can fully unzip the jacket for ventilation and keep moving, or you can put the hood up to keep warm when the wind is hammering or the sun disappears. 

The only drawback to this jacket is snow sticks to the knit fabric more than it does to the active insulation fabric. For this reason, the standard Nano Air Light is a better choice for alpine climbing in snowy conditions, when you are likely to be pummeled with spindrift. Of course, you can always put a windshell or an Airshed over the top.

Patagonia Airshed Pullover

The Airshed uses an active insulation fabric and is my favorite shirt I've ever used.

The Patagonia Airshed jacket is not insulated, but it should be included in any discussion of active insulation jackets. The fabric is the same as that on the Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody. 

Initially, I was highly skeptical of this jacket. Now, however, it's my second favorite Patagonia product! (The Grade VII Parka is my #1 favorite.) I use the Airshed almost everytime I play outside--for climbing, skiing, running, hiking, etc. It is incredibly versatile, only weighs 3.7 oz in men's medium, and can be layered over or under other jackets. For example, I wear this as a baselayer and then put the Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody on top. If it's especially windy and I'm getting cold, I will move the Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody against my skin and put the Airshed on top to block more wind. With these two layers, I am comfortable in a very wide range of conditions, year round. For a budget active insulation jacket, wear the Airshed on top of a traditional fleece jacket for increased weather protection.

I simply can't say enough good things about this layer. Yes, it's $120. I balked at that price initially, but I now know how well it works. Also, FYI, I was told the fabric costs twice as much as the insulation used in Patagonia's active jackets and can be more expensive than three-layer waterproof fabrics. For my body, my activities, and my climate, the following saying applies to the Airshed: "You'll pay a lot, but you'll get more than you pay for."

Arcteryx Proton LT Hoody

I used the Proton LT Hoody more than any other jacket during the two-year BPL test period. Shown here in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.

All synthetic insulated jackets are relatively fragile compared to down insulated jackets. The Arc’teryx Proton LT Hoody tackles that issue with its longer-lasting continuous filament insulation and a legitimately tough shell fabric. This is the most durable synthetic insulated jacket on the market. I recommend the Proton LT Hoody for cold weather alpine rock climbing because its fabric will last a lot longer than others for high abrasion activities. I also recommend it if you want a warmer synthetic insulated jacket that can be used for lower exertion and/or stationary applications. The Proton LT Hoody is likely the best choice for most consumers who do not come close to their aerobic threshold. Also, its fit and finishing details (e.g. hood, zipper, cuffs, pockets, etc.) are superb. 

Nunatak Skaha Apex

Nunatak Skaha Apex on a ski mountaineering-packrafting expedition in Denali National Park.

I recommend the Nunatak Skaha Apex if you want the most amount of warmth for the lowest weight. It's the obvious choice for stationary use or low exertion activities in cold weather. I much prefer this to the new Patagonia Micro Puff because it's warmer for its weight and you can customize the fit and features to fit your body and your activities perfectly. Also, it's made in Utah and costs less than $300! See the BPL review for my suggestions on custom features.

Conclusion

I found the abovementioned models to be the best synthetic insulated jackets on the market. If you are interested, head over to BackpackingLight to read the long-form reviews.

My Cold Weather Laying System

The following is arguably the best lightweight cold weather laying system on the market:

1. Patagonia Airshed as the baselayer.

2. Patagonia Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody for insulation. Move the Airshed on top of this when you need extra protection from wind or blowing snow.

3. Patagonia Nano Air Light. Add this extra insulation when you're stopped or if it's really cold and you're moving slower. Move the Airshed on top of the Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody and Nano Air Light for extra warmth! I can do this with size mediums in all layers, but a size large Airshed would be more comfortable. Since I rarely use the Airshed on top of both active insulation jackets, I am happiest with a size medium Airshed.

4. Optional: Arcteryx Squamish Hoody. Occasionally, when the wind is nuking, it can be useful to have a windshell to put on top of those layers. The Squamish Hoody is my favorite because it has a large, adjustable hood, adjustable wrist cuffs, a chest pocket, an excellent full-length zipper, and a darn tough fabric. It is highly functional and durable. If you're counting grams for an ultralight mission and don't desire something as longlasting or comfortable, you can save 3.5 oz. by purchasing an ultralight/ultra fragile model from a company like ZPacks or Montbell.

5. For multi-day trips in cold conditions, add a down parka on top of those layers. 

My favorite cold weather laying system: Patagonia Airshed, Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody, Nano Air Light, and Fitz Roy Parka.

Dan Sandberg wearing the Patagonia Nano Air Light and Nano Air Hoody jackets underneath the Arcteryx Squamish Hoody. I took this photo at 16,000 ft. during an attempt to traverse Mt. Logan, Yukon, Canada. Dan later sold his Nano Air Hoody because it was too warm. He prefers the Nano Air Light because it is more versatile. But he hasn't used the Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody yet!

Days I Remember

June 5, 2018, 10:13 pm

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On Saturday, over 21 hours, we slithered through alder, climbed up rock, ice, and snow to a beautiful summit only 30 miles from my house and returned to camp the long way via glaciers and gorgeous valleys. 

We saw seven bears and too many sheep and goat to recall precisely. 

We moved through the night without headlamps, following hints of trails left by moose. 

We cooked dinner at 4 AM Sunday morning. That afternoon, we lounged in the sun drinking beer, watching the clouds. 

These are my favorite days. Feeling so alive, scared, tired, engaged. Moving the body in different, subtle ways that require close observation, skill, and intuition. Feeling human. Seeing wild places. 

These are days I love, days that teach me things that are hard to learn elsewhere, days I remember vividly many years later.

First Aid Kits for Ultralight Trips and Expeditions

October 23, 2018, 12:14 am

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What’s the best first aid kit for backpacking and ultralight wilderness trips? What’s the best first aid kit for remote overland expeditions? This article shares my explorations with those questions. My goal is to have the right tools to manage a low probability, high consequence event.

Basecamp for a rescue operation that lifted me and two others off the East Ridge of Mt. Logan (distant) in 2017.

METHODOLOGY

I had an opportunity to take a Wilderness First Responder course with Deb Ajango, who has guided Alaskan mountaineering and wilderness trips for decades and has worked as a nurse in trauma units. I value her opinion more than other wilderness medicine experts and doctors because she has legitimate experience in the field that informs “what works?” and “what do you really need in the worst-case scenario?” For example, she and her husband were attacked by a brown bear, which clawed half of her husband's face off—his eyeball was hanging out of its socket.  Deb now runs a risk management consulting firm that analyzes situations (e.g. someone dies), company operations, and she teaches wilderness medicine. During my course with her, we talked about what went wrong on my Mt. Logan trip and I asked her advice on a first aid kit for wilderness travel in Alaska. Over the last year, I developed the following two first aid kits. One works well for fast and light trips where I choose to bring less because there is less risk or less consequence. The other kit is for remote expeditions where, if something goes wrong and you can't address it, your only option is to be rescued. And sometimes a rescue is not possible. 

ULTRALIGHT KIT

1.     Take a Wilderness First Responder course, have an emergency communication plan, be physically fit enough for your objective, and become proficient at route planning. These things matter more than gear.

2.     Four 4”x4” gauze pads - for band-aids and addressing substantial wounds.

3.     Four feet of Leukotape, the best tape to prevent and address blisters. Make a traditional band-aid by sticking a small piece of tape to the inside of a larger strip of tape. To add absorbent properties to your band-aid, replace the inside tape with a section of gauze. Rather than carrying separate butterfly band-aids, you can make your own with Leokotape—and they stick better! This video shows how to cut the tape into a butterfly bandage.

4.     Ibuprofen - painkiller.

5.     Optional, depending on who you’re traveling with: Benedryl. For allergic reactions.

6.     Optional: An energy bar, gel, or candy bar. For low blood sugar or to combat bonking.

7.     Store everything above in a durable, waterproof Locksack Aloksak bag.

8.     Garmin InReach Explorer+ Satellite Messenger This is a 100% reliable communication device that works in the harshest conditions. It is more reliable than a satellite phone. I used it to successfully coordinate a high-altitude rescue that saved my friend’s life. Also, it has a large battery and comes preloaded with topo maps you can navigate if you lose everything else. 7.5 oz and $450 See it here.

9.     Swiss Army Classic knife.

EXPEDITION KIT

Add the following to the ultralight kit:

1.     10 feet of Leukotape.

2.     10% Povodone Iodine in one mini dropper bottle. For cleaning wounds so they don't become infected. You can dilute it to 1% with clean water. 

3.     Eight 4”x4” gauze pads.

4.     30 ft. of 2mm utility cord - to create splints, braces, and rig up a litter to carry someone.

5.     Tylenol - for blunt trauma to the torso where hemorrhage is possible.

6.  Serious pain killer. For example, 6-10 percocet. Alternatively, 600mg ibuprofen and 1000mg of tylenol can create a makeshift solution for moderate to severe pain.

7.     Immodium - take after 24 hours of diarrhea and/or vomiting.

8.     Cipro - antibiotic to address an infection.