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The Ultimate Alaska Backpacking Gear List - Part One: Clothing

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INTRODUCTION
Carrying everything on your back and traversing a wild landscape—linking watersheds, climbing mountain passes, following braided rivers—is an immensely soul-satisfying experience. It leaves a permanent imprint in the mind and the heart. In few places is this more powerful than here in Alaska, one of the only locations in the world where "real wilderness" still exists. 
This four-part series aims to curate the current best available tools for lightweight human-powered landscape crossings in Alaska. My recommendations are informed by a wide variety of types of wilderness travel (e.g. backpacking, packrafting, mountaineering, skiing, high altitude alpinism, etc.) and a strong eight-year track record with product testing. Patagonia’s Manager of Advanced Research and Development recently told me, “I must say that you have a grasp of the performance principals and materials that can influence performance that most gear reviewers or athletes do not possess.”

View from a campsite in Wrangell-St. Elias National, Park,  part of the world's largest protected land area.
View from a campsite in Wrangell-St. Elias National, Park,  part of the world's largest protected land area.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Part 1 - Clothing. See below. 
Part 2 - Equipment. Coming soon.
Part 3 - Accessories. Coming soon.
Part 4 - Summary spreadsheet plus things I rarely recommend. Coming soon.

WHAT MAKES SOMETHING AN ULTIMATE CHOICE?
The products described below offer the highest value for Alaska’s environment and climate, spring through fall, across the entire state. Most of the items mentioned here perform well in winter, too. I define value as performance, craftsmanship, and beauty. These are durable, multi-function, repairable tools. They retain their value over time and can easily be sold to others.

ULTIMATE CHOICES
LONG SLEEVE SHIRT - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Patagonia Airshed
This is the single piece of outdoor gear that I use most often, year-round! After the incredible Grade VII Parka, which is a sophisticated work of art, this is my favorite Patagonia product. It is incredibly comfortable for a wide range of activities and conditions. I use it every time I go into the mountains. Here’s how: In the winter, I wear the Airshed as a baselayer. The moderately air permeable fabric (67 cubic feet per minute) makes it astonishingly comfortable and versatile. The fabric is breathable enough for high output activities in cold weather and it blocks moderate winds and sheds snow like a windshell. It dries much faster than traditional synthetic and wool baselayers. Also, mosquitos cannot bite through the fabric. (I place it over my face when I’m using a shelter without bug protection and there are more bugs than I expect.) As for features: this shirt has a deep chest zipper that dumps heat and moisture vapor. It also has a chest pocket! I have been told that this fabric is more expensive than some three-layer waterproof breathable fabrics. If you were to try one product from the items I share here, I’d recommended this superb do-everything shirt. 3.7 oz in men’s medium and $119. See it on Patagonia’s website

Skiing the Eklutna traverse in the Western Chugach mountains wearing the Patagonia Airshed shirt, one of my favorite pieces of outdoor clothing ever.



Skiing the Eklutna traverse in the Western Chugach mountains wearing the Patagonia Airshed shirt, one of my favorite pieces of outdoor clothing ever.

BUG SHIRT - USE THE AIRSHED!
Many Alaskan backpackers carry dedicated bug shirts made of a tightly woven synthetic fabric. These are expensive—around $100—have sloppy cargo pockets, bulky snap closures, and even vents in the back. The Patagonia Airshed provides the same bug-proof properties while being lighter, more comfortable, and faster to dry. 

T-SHIRT - RECOMMENDED
I dislike wool t-shirts because they become saturated with sweat, don’t dry as fast as polyester, and are fragile. I have found that I’m more comfortable in a lightweight synthetic shirt. I’ve also found that synthetic materials are more durable. The only time I prefer a wool shirt is for winter expeditions where I am unlikely to get wet, won’t get too hot and sweaty, and won’t encounter anything abrasive. Consider something like the Patagonia Lightweight Capilene3.5 oz and $49.

Backpacking in Wrangell-St.Elias National Park, Alaska
Everyone on this education-pace 22-day trip in July carried t-shirts. 

INSULATED JACKET #1
Patagonia Nano-Air Light Hybrid Hoody - Highly Recommended
This is the most comfortable insulated jacket I have ever used. I usually wear it over the Airshed. If it's cold and windy, however, I’ll take this off and put the Airshed on over the top for increased wind protection. (Wearing this against my skin.) The Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody is remarkably stretchy, highly breathable, dries fast, and the hood can quickly add a great deal of warmth. The hood is also bug-proof, which I appreciate when sleeping without bug protection in a quilt sleeping bag. Over the last year, this jacket has become my most-used insulated jacket. 11.6 oz and $249. See it at Patagonia.com

Patagonia Nano-Air Light Hybrid Hoody worn on top of the Patagonia Airshed jacket.
Patagonia Nano-Air Light Hybrid Hoody worn on top of the Patagonia Airshed. I bring these two layers on every trip, year-round. 

INSULATED JACKET #2
I prefer to layer the Patagonia Nano Air Light Hoody on top of the Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody. This combination of an ultralight softshell baselayer (Airshed) with two active insulation jackets is more comfortable to use in motion and dries out faster than a synthetic insulated jacket with a low air permeable fabric. Gram counting ultralight hikers in other climates may be shaking their heads at the thought of carrying 22 oz of insulating jackets. But this setup performs exceptionally well in cold, wet weather and also in the winter. If the wind is hammering and I'm working hard, I wear the Airshed on top of one or both jackets for increased wind protection. Then I add a waterproof shell to completely block the wind. This layering system will work well anywhere on the planet. 10.6 oz and $249.

Climbing Mt. Logan's East Ridge, Canada wearing the Patagonia Nano Air Light jacket.
Three of us wore Patagonia Nano Air Light jackets on an attempt to traverse Mt. Logan via the east ridge. This jacket works marvelously in cold dry weather pictured here and also for cold, wet conditions common during the Alaskan summer. 

DOWN INSULATED JACKET - SUBSTITUTE
Feathered Friends Eos
If I am confident the weather will be good, I’ll bring a down jacket instead of the Nano Air Light Hoody. The Feathered Friends Eos best balances warmth, low weight, and durability. I have been using this jacket since it came out in Spring 2016. It is significantly warmer and more durable than ultralight down jackets (e.g. Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer) that weigh a few ounces less. Thus, it is more versatile and longer-lasting, and therefore a better value. 10 oz and $309. See it a Feathered Friends
Feathered Friends Eos down jacket on a summer night near the Kennicott Glacier, Alaska
Feathered Friends Eos down jacket on a summer night near the Kennicott Glacier.

WINDPROOF SYNTHETIC INSULATED JACKET - SUBSTITUTE
Nunatak Skaha Apex
This is my favorite windproof synthetic insulated jacket for mostly stationary use. It offers the highest warmth to weight ratio of all synthetic insulated jacket. Also, it is the only synthetic jacket I know of that can be customized made to fit your body, and you can choose the fabrics and insulation that best match your needs. Read my extensive BackpackingLight review to learn more. 9.9 oz and $240 as I configured mine.

Max Neale in the Nunatak Skaha Apex on a skiing-packrafting expedition in Denali National Park.
Nunatak Skaha Apex on a skiing-packrafting expedition in Denali National Park.

RAIN JACKET - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Patagonia Storm Racer
The fabric in the revised Storm Racer and the M10 are identical. Patagonia developed their own waterproof breathable membrane and an ultralight face fabric that’s significantly lighter than most competitors. I have used the M10 for dozens of climbing and backcountry ski days and over 1000 miles of wilderness travel. In all of that use, I have only made two small repairs. The M10 is helmet compatible—get it if you wear climbing or ski helmets. Otherwise, the Storm Racer will serve you better. Both jackets are outstanding and it’s remarkable the Storm Racer it costs $129 less than the M10! Only 6 oz and $249. See it at Patagonia.com 
A note about ultralight rain jackets from cottage manufacturers: there has been a lot of hype for waterproof breathable Dyneema fabrics, such as is used on the Shell (6 oz and $450), made by Hyperlite Mountain Gear. I have used earlier versions of these and been sorely disappointed by their lack of comfort, poor durability, and trash bag aesthetics. Based on what I have heard from Hyperlite Ambassadors and other testers, I am confident either the Storm Racer or M10 are the best choice for Alaska due to their increased durability.

Backpacking, crossing a river in Denali National Park, Alaska
My 71-year-old uncle backpacking in Denali National Park this past summer.

HEADBAND - RECOMMENDED
Arcteryx Phase AR
This headband has become one of my favorite layers. It adds a remarkable amount of warmth and weighs less than one ounce. When I am not wearing it on my head, I often drop it down around my neck. It compresses so small that it can fit in the Airshed pocket along with my phone or camera. 0.7 oz and $25. See it here  

HEADNET - OPTIONAL
This can be essential for spring and early summer trips in the Arctic and other places with abundant insect habitat, such as the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta. I do not carry a headnet in Southcentral or Southeast Alaska. Unfortunately, the model I own, from Peters, is no longer in production. Several mainstream brands offer products that I’m not qualified to comment on.

GLOVES - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Showa 282
Waterproof gloves are essential for wilderness travel in Alaska, even in the summer. For six years, I used the Outdoor Research Mount Baker Mitt, which costs $150 and the outer shell weighs 5.6 oz in size large. The main problem with traditional “high tech” waterproof breathable fabrics, such as those used in the Mt. Baker Mitt, is durability. They are rarely durable enough for serious brush. The other problem is breathability. Once the face fabric wets out, they are not breathable. I started using the Showa 282 insulated gloves in the summer of 2017 and have not used another glove since. Ice climbing, alpine climbing, hiking, packrafting in the rain, biking to work, changing my car' studded tires in the winter—everything. These gloves have industrial durability, only weigh 4.2 oz in size XL, have enough insulation to keep my hands warm during active pursuits year-round, and only cost $20. My only complaint is they smelled like cancer and felt itchy against my skin for the first few months of use. I recommend buying them now and letting them off-gas for a while before using them. They run a size small so go up one size. See them at Amazon.com 

Showa 282 glove hiking in the Talkeetna Mountains, Alaska
The Showa 282 is the only glove I have used for the last 16 months, including all winter. I find it to be far superior to high-end waterproof breathable gloves due to its durability and legitimate waterproof material. When I stop moving in the depth of winter, I put on toasty mittens with high-loft synthetic insulation.

FOOTWEAR
Backpacking is walking, an activity which depends entirely upon the function of your feet. I have found that footwear is the single most important piece of equipment to get right. I recommend visiting several stores to try on lots of shoes before making a decision. The ideal type of footwear depends on how rugged the terrain is, the precision and agility of your footwork, the strength of your feet, and the weight of your pack. Trail running shoes perform best for the majority of backpacking. Hiking or mountaineering boots are ideal for extended time in steep, rocky terrain with a heavy pack. The best make and model for you will depend on what fits your feet. Here’s what works well for me:

Protection Trail Running Shoe - Highly Recommended
There is great beauty and efficiency in knowing your equipment intimately, particularly footwear. I am on my sixth or perhaps seventh pair of La Sportiva Ultra RaptorsI have used these shoes so much and in such a wide variety of terrain that I know when they will and will not stick to rock, tundra, wet grass on a 30-degree slope, and compressed “concrete” of lateral moraines. The Ultra Raptor has a burly rock guard, lots of cushion for long days spent rock hopping, and ample toe protection. I have worn these shoes in rough terrain with a 50 lb. pack, which is their upper limit for me. My main complaint is, like almost all shoes that are comfortable for walking, they perform poorly for steep sidehilling, edging, and for fifth-class climbing. Though they are a touch too wide for my narrow feet, their ample protection keeps my feet in good condition, unlike lighter trail shoes. 24 oz and $130.
La Sportiva Ultra Raptor shoes ultralight backpacking in the Brooks Range, Alaska
La Sportiva Ultra Raptor shoes skipping through tussocks and ponds in the arctic. 
I have experimented with normal trail running shoes, such as the Arcteryx Norvan LD pictured here, and prefer a more protective shoe like the Ultra Raptor for most trips.

Lightweight Trail Running Shoe - Substitute
With a light pack in more technical terrain, I love the Arcteryx Norvan VT shoe. This has been a dream come true for me because it combines sticky rubber with a tight lacing system that extends all the way to the toe. It fits like a glove on my narrow foot and gives me far more precision and confidence on rock and steep sidehilling. After a year of experimentation, I now choose to use this shoe for technical hiking and scrambling with a pack that weighs less than 30 lb. 22 oz and $170.

The lacing system and sticky rubber on the Arcteryx Norvan VT shoe make it incredible for technical terrain. Durability is lacking, however,
Boots - Substitute
In rocky mountaineering type terrain with a pack over 50 lb it can be useful to wear boots that offer more protection than trail running shoes. I do not own a pair of traditional hiking boots. For the few times each year I need more protection than a shoe, I use my rigid sole mountaineering boots, which I do not recommend to you. If you are confident that you need a boot, I recommend something like the La Sportiva Trango Tech. That is a lightweight mountain boot with a flexible sole. 

ORTHOTICS - OPTIONAL
I have found custom orthotics to be invaluable for my flat feet. I have two pairs. One is a low-profile model that fits perfectly in my climbing and backcountry ski boots. The other has a thick plastic center component that runs beneath the ball of the foot to the heel and provides a lot of support and protection. Custom orthotics are available from a podiatrist and cost around $300.

Unless I'm carrying a heavy pack (> 40 lb) through extended rugged terrain like this boulder field, I prefer protection trail running shoes to boots. Here, Maresa scrambles through the Talkeetna Mountains en route to the Mountaineering Club of Alaska's new Holden Hut. 
GAITERS - RECOMMENDED
Montbell Stretch Short Spats
The BackpackingLight Ultralight Gaiter State of the Market Report is an excellent resource that summarizes what to look for in a hiking gaiter. The goal of a hiking gaiter is not to be waterproof—you can expect your feet to be wet all the time—but to keep debris out of your shoes. I have had great results with the top recommendation from that article, the Montbell Stretch Short Spats. It stays in place well, even in deep snow, and has proven to be durable. Last summer, I wore through the elastic part of the bottom strap on rock glaciers in the Wrangells. I repaired it in the field with some extra guyline from our shelter and made a permanent repair with elastic cord inserted into purple tubular webbing. Alternatively, Montbell sells a 0.3 oz “Dura Strap” for $3. To be clear, I do not recommend carrying a replacement strap. Static cord works great as a temporary repair. 2.1 oz and $35 at the Montbell site 

Montbell Stretch Short Spats gaiter above the Muldow glacier, Alaska
Behold the mud-busting protection of the Montbell Stretch Short Spats gaiter! Shown here while looking at the north side of Denali from above the Muldow glacier.

HIKING PANT
NOLS Pant - Highly Recommended
I purchased my first pair of NOLS pants in 2006 at the start of a Semester in Patagonia course. They lasted nearly a decade. These are the only comfortable pants I know of that can withstand extended exposure to serious brush, dry fast, and are reasonably light. They are superior to traditional “hiking pants” in every way except aesthetics. The legs are intentionally baggy so you can slip them off over your footwear. The fabric contains no elastane and is therefore difficult to snag and tear—a critical feature for long-term durability. The side zips allow you to quickly take the pants on and off without untying your shoes or boots. The 1000-denier reinforced knees protect my legs against brush and devil’s club. The 1000-denier reinforced butt endures sitting and sliding on rocks. There’s a moderately functional side pocket for lightweight items like a snack, lighter, or maps. A simple drawstring makes them nearly effortless to put on and take off. Overall, this pair of pants performs exceptionally well for traveling or living in the backcountry. $62. Available from NOLS 

NOLS pant on the Root Glacier, Wrangell St. Elias National Park. These are my favorite pants for wilderness travel.

That glorious feeling of taking off your wet shoes at the end of the day. Also pictured here: NOLS pants.

Patagonia Houdini Pant - Substitute
The only alternative to the NOLS pant that I believe to be worthy of considering for a non-waterproof pant is the Patagonia Houdini. I recommend the Houdini pant for trips where the probability of the pant failing is low or when the consequence of failure is low. The Houdini pants are incredibly light and comfortable. I much prefer their fit, feel, and looks to the NOLS Pant. After crossing a river, they dry in a handful of minutes in the sun. Unfortunately, once the fabric has seen a good amount of use, it is no longer as strong and can tear catastrophically. Bring a sewing kit if you use these for a multi-week trip. I have sent two pairs back to Patagonia for a permanent repair before they died completely and I bought a new pair. 3.4 oz and $99. See it at Patagonia.com Note, I heard from Patagonia customer service that the company is in the process of releasing a slight revision to this pant. The new version will be available February 2018.

The Patagonia Houdini Pant is the most comfortable hiking pant I've used. Unfortunately, it is not tough enough for extended trips with lots of brush. Here, Sarah used these pants for one summer in Alaska before finishing them off on a four-day trip walking 90 miles down the Escalante River. 

RAIN PANT - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Arcteryx Beta SL
I have experimented with ultralight rain pants and no longer use them because they do not remain waterproof for long. The best rain pant with the durability needed for this environment is the Arcteryx Beta SL. Last year, I used these for nine weeks off-trail in Southeast Alaska and Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. Since then, I have discovered that they work well in deep snow—so much so that I choose these over my go-to durable climbing and skiing pants (Arcteryx Alpha SV Bib) for climbing trips where I need a waterproof pant and saving weight is important. Noteworthy features include calf-length watertight zippers for ease on and off while wearing shoes or boots and a low-profile waistband. 9.2 oz and $199.

SHORTS - OPTIONAL
In the warmer summer months, I sometimes wear running shorts underneath my wind pants and take my pants off if I get hot. I don’t have enough experience comparing a variety of running shorts to recommend a single best product. The main attributes that are important to me are low-profile waist area for comfort under a hipbelt and a soft, built-in brief. Consider the Patagonia Strider Pro3.9 oz and $65.

River crossing during the Alaska Wrangell Mountains Field Study program.
River crossing during the Alaska Wrangell Mountains Field Study program.

THERMAL BOTTOMS - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Patagonia Capilene Thermal
I've tried a variety of long underwear bottoms and always return to the Capilene Thermal because they are the warmest for their weight, highly breathable, and comfortable. The Arcteryx Phase SL is an ounce lighter, dries faster, and feels sportier with its skin-tight grip. But, for me, the extra warmth of the Capilene Thermal is well worth the additional ounce. On most trips, I bring two pairs of these. I wear one pair for walking if it’s cold and/or rainy. I only use the other pair for sleeping. Thus, in the morning, after a restful night spent warm and dry, I'll put on soaking-wet travel clothes.
3.8 oz and $89. See it at Patagonia.com 

UNDERWEAR - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Arcteryx Phase SL
I have been impressed with the men’s Arcteryx Phase SL underwear and have heard high praise from ladies about the Phase SL bra and undies. The fabric is light, highly air permeable, and comfortable. Most importantly, Arcteryx aces the design and patterning. See the Phase SL collection here.

VAPOR BARRIER SOCK - OPTIONAL

The most effective way to significantly increase the warmth of my feet during cold weather trips is to wear a vapor barrier sock over another sock. In this genre, the Rap VB Sock is the best commercial model I’ve used. (I remove the top drawcord.) On cold three-season hiking and mountaineering trips where I may need the warmth of a vapor barrier sock, but not enough to warrant bringing the Rab socks, I insert my feet into U-Line plastic bags after I eat their contents. Using these bags as a vapor barrier sock is astonishingly comfortable and doesn’t require bringing anything extra. An example of a trip where we needed vapor barrier socks and relied on U-Line bags was the 2017 Baranof Island Traverse.

Long days slogging through snow in cooler weather and/or rain can be made more comfortable with vapor barrier socks. Here, John and I turned to our U-Line food bags, which added a waterproof, air impermeable barrier above our socks. 


The Ultimate Alaska Backpacking Gear List - Part Two: Equipment

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

This is the second post in a four-part series that aims to curate the current best available tools for lightweight human-powered landscape crossings in Alaska. Navigate to the other posts here:

Part 2 - Equipment. See below.
Part 3 - Accessories. Coming soon.
Part 4 - Summary spreadsheet plus things I rarely recommend. Coming soon.

CATEGORIES: BRING LESS TO SAVE WEIGHT

The products listed in this series of posts have been divided into four categories:
Highly recommended - Best-in-class performance for the Alaskan environment and climate. 
Recommended - These items can increase comfort, convenience, and safety. To go ultralight, don't bring some or all of these.
Optional - Unnecessary items that can further increase comfort and/or happiness.

Substitute - Though not as versatile, these products can perform better than the Ultimate Choices for specific applications.

Leif Muse walks among icebergs in the recently-drained Hidden Lake, Wrangell St. Elias National Park.

ULTIMATE CHOICES: EQUIPMENT

TREKKING POLES - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork 
Versatile. Durable. Repeat. These poles can do everything and they are hard to break. 17 oz and $169. See it.
Why are trekking poles “highly recommended” instead of “optional?” Because, in a trail-less wilderness, they reduce effort and increase safety by a large margin. For example, they make creek crossings, balancing on fallen trees, boulder hopping, steep and slippery sidehilling easier. Similar to the difference between two and four-wheel drive. As for safety, they significantly reduce risk during river crossings and more generally through reducing the probability of falling in challenging terrain. 

Crossing the Matanuska River just below the Matanuska Glacier terminus.
Crossing the Matanuska River just below the Matanuska Glacier terminus. Brrrr!!!

SLEEPING PAD - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
Therma-Rest NeoAir XLite
I have been using this pad since Fall 2011. It is the gold standard for a light, comfortable pad that’s warm enough to sleep on snow, ice, and cold soil underlain with permafrost. The pad is also impressively durable. I have both the Regular and Short size and use the Regular 90% of the time because I sleep better. 12 oz and $170 for size Regular. See it at REI.com 

Therm-a-Rest Neo Air XLite sleeping pad in the Tongass National Forest.

SLEEPING BAG - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

Katabatic Gear Grenadier 5 
Unlike most “15-degree” sleeping bags, this bag is truly warm enough for use below freezing. And it only weighs two pounds! The adjustable girth hugs your body to eliminate dead air space and can be expanded to accommodate a puffy insulated parka and pants for cold winter use. Katabatic Gear is the only quilt manufacturer I know of with a design that effectively prevents air transfer when I’m sleeping on my side. Also, I find quilts to be more comfortable than mummy bags because I can turn over inside the bag, rather than with the bag. Further, as with all quilts, laying directly on the sleeping pad makes this bag last longer than traditional mummies, where you crush the down insulation. How about keeping your head warm? I wear the Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody when it’s cold out and add another insulated jacket or a down hood (consider the Nunatak Down Hood) when it’s below freezing. This bag weighs 30 oz and costs $550. See it on the Katabatic Gear website. 
Katabatic Gear Grenadier 5 sleeping bag. Credit: Katabatic Gear 


Feathered Friends Lark UL 10

I have used somewhere around 40 three-season mummy sleeping bags. The Lark UL 10 offers the highest warmth to weight ratio. It is by far the best in its class, significantly warmer than the Patagonia sleeping bags released in 2017. Excluding that it is made in Seattle with the highest quality down and fabrics, the primary factor that sets this bag apart from the competition is the hood design. The Lark has a huge adjustable neck baffle that seals in warm air. Both the neck baffle and hood close securely with snaps, rather than Velcro, which is used by Western Mountaineering and is not as secure or easy to use. If you prefer a mummy bag to a quilt, I recommend the Lark UL 10. It keeps me toasty warm spring through fall. 31.3 oz and $559. 

Also consider the Lark YF 10, which weighs 1.7 ounces more (33 oz total) and costs $70 less ($489) than the UL 10.  See both Lark bags at FeatheredFriends.com

Reading in the Feathered Friends Lark UL 10 sleeping bag, Talkeetna Mountains. 

ZPacks Twin Quilt 5
Two-person sleeping bags are warmer, lighter and can be more comfortable than individual bags. I own three two-person sleeping bags and the ZPacks Twin Quilt 5 is my favorite for lightweight trips. I have the version that was released in 2015, which is warm enough down to around 20 ish degrees Fahrenheit. The current model, released in 2017, has a highly beneficial addition: a “neck pillow” that insulates the area between you and your companion’s shoulders. The 5-degree Twin Quilt weighs 37 oz and costs $629. Compared to buying two Katabatic quilts, you save 23 oz and $471. See it at ZPacks.com. 

Also, when using a double sleeping bag, it’s nice to strap two similar sleeping pads together to form a single, continuous mattress. I use ZPacks Pad Straps most of the time. On trips where saving weight and time are important, I tape both pads together with at least three 24” strips of Tyvek Tape on each side of the pads. Tape is lighter, eliminates fussing with straps in the morning and evening, and stays in place for about a month of everyday use.

Dan and I slept out under the stars in the ZPacks Twin Quilt 5. Denali National Park.
Nunatak Gamut
In extremely wet conditions, such as Alaska’s southeastern and southcentral temperate rainforest (Prince William Sound and south), a synthetic insulated sleeping bag can be useful. Depending on your shelter, however, it may not be necessary. I have found that it is imperative when using a square tarp in the temperate rainforest because dense fog can envelop the shelter, causing it to slowly "rain" under the tarp. Everything gets soaked! (This happens significantly less with a pyramid shelter.) On the rare trips when I need a synthetic insulated sleeping bag, I use the Nunatak Gamut quilt. Several companies make similar models. I prefer this for two reasons: it has an ultralight fabric (0.67 oz/yd) and can be made with a closed footbox, which is warmer and lighter than the typical open footbox. I choose the 35-degree Climashield Apex insulation. 24 oz and $220. Available from Nunatak.

Nunatak Gamut synthetic insulated quilt sleeping bag in the soaking wet fog of Southeast Alaska.
Nunatak Gamut synthetic insulated quilt sleeping bag (orange) in the soaking wet fog of Southeast Alaska.


SHELTER

Hyperlite Mountain Gear UltaMid 4 - Highly Recommended
This is my most-used shelter. If I were to have one tent, I’d choose this. See my long-term review to learn why I think it's the best all-purpose ultralight shelter on the market. I rarely use dedicated bug protection. When I do, I bring the Hyperlite floorless bug insert, which weighs 16.7 oz. This gigantic shelter weighs 24 oz and costs $865.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear UltaMid 4 in the Brooks Range.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Square Tarp - Substitute
Occasionally, when a trip is going to be especially physically challenging for me, I'll bring this tarp. However, there is a significant tradeoff between weight savings and weather protection. I have used this tarp for several trips where its lack of protection was not worth the weight savings. For example, in order to avoid sleeping on a snowy, windy ridge where a pyramid would have worked well, I descended three thousand feet into a valley and regained that elevation the next day. Even down in that valley, we pitched the tarp in “storm mode” (two feet off the ground) which is only slightly more comfortable than a bivy sack. The key point here is: I only use this tarp if the trip will be especially challenging for me and the terrain will allow sufficient wind protection. Why this particular model? I have used Dyneema Composite Fabric flat tarps from ZPacks and Mountain Laurel Designs and prefer the Hyperlite model because of its excellent construction quality and aesthetics. I remove all of the stock guylines and linelocs so that I can attach longer 2mm Dyneema cord to save weight. 9.5 oz with lines and $355. See it on Hyperlite’s website.

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Square Flat Tarp pitched in "storm mode" on a windy, rainy night on Baranof Island, Southeast Alaska.

Mountain Laurel Designs DuoMid - Substitute
After several ultralight exposed ridgeline trips where — even with extensive route planning—a flat tarp was inadequate, I bought a Dyneema Composite Fabric DuoMid. The intention was to have the ideal tool for two specific trips. However, I’ve barely used this shelter because the UltaMid 4 only weighs 6 oz more. That’s the weight of a few energy bars. I almost always find the increased comfort of the UltaMid to be worthwhile. 17.7 oz and $440. Available from Mountain Laurel Designs.

Mountain Laurel Designs DuoMid Dyneema Composite Fabric in the Chugach Mountains. 

STAKES - RECOMMENDED

8” Easton Nano Nail
Some people don’t carry stakes. They prefer instead to anchor their shelter to rocks and logs. I have done this for a three-month expedition in Patagonia and on some Alaska trips. However, I prefer to carry the extra weight of stakes because it often significantly reduces the amount of effort required to pitch a shelter. For example, I don’t need to choose a campsite with access to rocks or logs—I can camp anywhere. Regarding which stake to use, I prefer the 8” Easton Nano Nail, which has an excellent combination of holding power and durability. They work well in everything from deep, mossy tundra to hard-packed glacial moraine. Both the tip and end cap are strong enough to withstand daily pounding into hard soils with a rock. I carry eight of these stakes on most trips. They weigh 0.4 oz each. With guyline loops at the top and a stuff sack, eight stakes weigh around 4 oz. Mountain Laurel Designs sells the stakes individually with guyline. If you buy six or more, they include a stuff sack for free. See the stakes at Mountain Laurel Designs.com

GROUNDCLOTH - RECOMMENDED

This groundsheet weighs 3.7 oz, works well, and only costs $9. My only complaint is it does not last for long trips. If you are doing a remote trip longer than a month, consider a 52” by 90” ZPacks Flat Groundsheet, which weighs 4 oz, costs $99, and is tough enough to last for years. 

Shaking out the Gossamer Gear Polycro groundsheet. 

BACKPACK

Hyperlite Mountain Gear 4400 Porter
This is my favorite backpack for carrying up to 45 lb. It is large enough for packrafting or a two-week mountaineering trip. I have a custom model with the bottom and sides that are made with woven Dyneema for long-term durability—intended for mountaineering and for carrying skis. Most of the time, I attach the 4 oz Hyperlite Stuff Pocket to the outside for easy access to food, water, and clothing. If you don’t have any intention of carrying skis or ice tools on the outside, you are likely better off with the Windrider, which has two side pockets. Read my long-term comparative review here to compare all Hyperlite backpacks.

Skiing out of the Alaska Range with a packraft inside the Hyperlite Moutain Gear Porter backpack. Denali National Park.
ZPacks Nero
This pack is small and light. I have used it and its predecessor for two of the most physically challenging trips of my life. It carries 20 lb comfortably. If you want to strap a rope or a packraft on top for a day or two, or start out with lots of food, the pack can manage 30 lb. I am always excited to be using this pack because it is a true pleasure to be carrying so little weight! 11 oz and $200. Available from ZPacks.com

Going fast and light through the mucky mud with the ZPacks Nero pack. Tongass National Forest.

Seek Outside Unaweep 6300
This pack is truly comfortable for heavy loads, is lightweight for its capacity and comfort, has excellent side pockets, and the frame can adjust to fit any torso size. I swap from the 4400 Hyperlite to the 6300 Unaweep anytime I’m carrying a big or heavy load. 56 oz and $470. See it at Seek Outside.com

The Seek Outside Unaweep 6300 is "an ultralight load monster." No other pack can match its comfort while carrying big loads. 


SPOON - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

GSI Table Spoon
I cut part of the handle off this spoon to make it easier to pack into pots and pockets. I like to use it at lunches to eat sardines. I also add a strip of orange duct tape to the top of the handle to make it easy to locate. (Once, at 14,000 ft camp on Denali’s West Buttress I left our spoons out and it snowed four feet overnight. We spent most of the next day excavating camp and searching for the spoons.) This beautiful little spoon weighs 0.5 oz and only costs $0.75 at REI. 


The $0.75 GSI Tablespoon only weighs 0.5 oz. I cut the handle down some for easier packing into small spaces. I also add a piece of orange duct tape to the end of the handle for higher visibility. 

STOVE

MSR Pocket Rocket 2 - Highly Recommended 
For most applications, the Pocket Rocket strikes a good balance between the inherent tradeoffs common to all lightweight backcountry stoves. Its main limitations are instability and vulnerability to wind. According to MSR, a 5 MPH wind can cause as much as three times more fuel use in a given cooking period. I frequently erect a windshield with one or two backpacks. Sometimes, to save weight, I’ll cook dinner over a fire and use the stove in the morning to make hot drinks. 2.6 oz and $45. See it. 

Using a canister stove system and comparing Nunatak and Mountain Laurel Designs synthetic insulated sleeping bags.
1.7L MSR Reactor - Substitute
For winter use, when extensive snow melting is necessary, and for long summer trips where increased efficiency is worthwhile, the MSR Reactor is the ultimate stove. MSR claims this stove is nearly 30% more efficient than the Pocket Rocket 2. That’s without wind! If I were to have one stove to do everything, I’d choose the 1.7L Reactor. I have used this stove at -37 F, for high-altitude alpinism, and also on a five-week traverse of the Brooks Range. It is easy to use, fast, efficient, and highly durable. I have been using the same pot and burner since 2010. I have replaced the lid. On lightweight summer trips, I remove the lid (using a bowl as a lid substitute) and I remove the handle (replacing it with a loop of cord). Those modifications reduce the total weight to 14.9 oz. $240. See it.

1.7L MSR Reactor stove used with a bowl as the lid and with a loop of cord to replace the handle.
1.7L MSR Reactor stove used with a bowl as the lid and with a loop of cord to replace the handle. One of these 16 oz fuel canisters will last more than two weeks when boiling 1.5L of water twice a day in the summer.

1.7L MSR Reactor stove at approximately 13,500 ft on the south face of Denali.  If I were to have one stove, I'd chose this one because it is efficient, works well year-round, and can be paired with three different size pots.

Trail Designs Sidewinder Tri-Ti - Substitute 

This stove has emerged as the leading alcohol stove system, due to its wind resistance, stability, and efficiency. It is my favorite stove for going fast and light with two people when we boil water only for dinner. My favorite part about the Sidewinder is its whisper-quiet flame, a welcome change from the roar of the Pocket Rocket. The burner, windscreen, Tyvek case, and measuring cup weigh a total of 2.3 oz. With one boil per day, it is lighter than using the Pocket Rocket with canister fuel for trips up to approximately seven days. The stove’s windscreen is made specifically to fit your pot. I prefer the 1.3L Evernew pot described below. The Sidewinder and burner fit inside the pot. I pack around 1.0 oz of alcohol per day which boils a full pot of cold water. 2.3 oz and $79. See it at TrailDesigns.com

Couscous and edible flowers for dinner!

POT

MSR Big Titan Kettle - Highly Recommended 
This pot is light, tough, has enough capacity to cook a big meal for two ravenous people. This is my favorite pot for use with the Pocket Rocket stove. It's pictured in the fourth photo above. 6.4 oz and $99. See it.

Evernew 1.3L Ultralight - Substitute
This pot is a perennial favorite among lightweight hikers due to its low weight, ability to feed two people, and sufficient durability. I have used it with a wide variety of stoves and cooked with it on top of open fires. (The rubber covers on the handles melt; it’s best to remove them.) My only complaint is that it is not large enough to feed two ravenous people. The size works when my adventure partner and I are eating a smaller hot dinner supplemented with cold snacks, when I’m less hungry, or when I’m traveling with someone who doesn’t eat as much as I do. Generally, I prefer a larger pot. I mostly use this pot with the Trail Designs stove. 4.6 oz or 4.0 oz without the handles. $69. See it here.

Bear tracks in the Brooks Range, Alaska
Bear tracks.

Ultimate Alaska Backpacking Gear - Part Three: Accessories

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

This is the third post in a four-part series that aims to curate the current best available tools for lightweight human-powered landscape crossings in Alaska. Navigate to the other posts here:


Part 3 - Accessories. See below.

CATEGORIES: BRING LESS TO SAVE WEIGHT

The products listed in this series of posts have been divided into four categories:
Highly recommended - Best-in-class performance for the Alaskan environment and climate. 
Recommended - These items can increase comfort, convenience, and safety. To go ultralight, don't bring some or all of these.
Optional - Unnecessary items that can further increase comfort and/or happiness.
Substitute - Though not as versatile, these products can perform better than the Ultimate Choices for specific applications.

Students in the Alaska Wrangell Mountains field Study program stop to snap photos of an old moulin on the Kusklana Glacier
Accessories are small items such as a water bottle, sunglasses, camera and note pad. Here, students in the Alaska Wrangell Mountains field Study program stop to snap photos of an old moulin on the Kusklana Glacier.

ULTIMATE CHOIES: ACCESSORIES

WATER BOTTLE - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 

Platypus 2L Platy Bottle - Highly Recommended 
This reservoir carries 2.5L, weighs only 1.2 oz, and is durable enough to last for about two years. I bring one and no other water bottles. The caps are not attached, but I have never lost one, even in extensive winter use. I prefer this bottle to the Hydraflask Seeker 3L because its diameter is wider and therefore easier to pack. $13. See it here. 

Drinking from the Platypus 2L Platy Bottle in July.
Drinking from the Platypus 2L Platy Bottle in May.

SUNGLASSES - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

The two key attributes I look for in sunglasses are photochromic lenses and sufficient ventilation to prevent the lenses from fogging. Consider a Julbo model that uses their Zebra lens. 

SUN HAT OR VISOR - RECOMMENDED

A visor protects from sun and rain. I use an el cheapo cotton/plastic visor that I got in Siberia a decade ago and have since developed a strong attachment to. That weighs 2.2 oz. Arcteryx makes some great looking hats and visors that weigh half has much and are fashioned from high performance materials. 

Sunglasses, visor, camera, and a shoulder pocket--all accessories that make life more comfortable.

PLASTIC FOOD BAGS - RECOMMENDED 

U-Line 9” x 12” 2 mil Industrial
This is the standard bag used by outdoor institutions and guide services. It is far more durable than a ZipLoc and does not tear apart at the seams in cold weather. They also double as vapor barrier socks! Reusable—wash them after a trip. The classic mistake by new users users is to tie the overhand knot too tight. Use a loose overhand knot for ease when opening. $37 for 1000 bags. Available at uline.com 

ULine industrial plastic bags, pictured here, are more durable than standard ZipLoc bags. They can easily be washed and used again. 1000 bags cost $37.

RISK KIT - RECOMMENDED

I pack a first aid kit, repair kit, and emergency communication device into one stuff sack that I call a “risk kit.” 
Components of my Risk Kit: satellite communication and backup GPS navigation device, first aid kit (bottom center), and a repair kit (bottom right).
EMERGENCY COMMUNICATION - RECOMMENDED 
Garmin InReach Explorer+
I coordinated a high-altitude rescue that saved my friend’s life using this device.  I prefer the larger and heavier InReach Explorer+ to the InReach Mini because it has preloaded topomaps for the entire United States and serves as backup GPS navigation. This is 100% reliable, even more so than a satellite phone. If my cell phone dies and I can’t navigate with Gaia, I know I will be able to navigate in a whiteout or dense fog/clouds with the GPS and large screen built into the InReach Explorer+. I tie the device to a loop of cord that hangs from my neck for accessible, waterproof navigation. Also, the large capacity battery can last more than a month with regular messaging and some navigation. The reduced weight (4 oz less) and smaller size of the InReach Mini make it the obvious choice for activities that don’t benefit from backup navigation (e.g. hiking in trails and alpine climbing). I prefer the increased capability and security of a multi-purpose device that has been proven to save lives in the harshest conditions. 7.5 oz and $450. See it here.


Coordinating resupply logistics with the Garmin InReach Explorer+ satellite messenger and GPS navigation device.
Coordinating resupply logistics with the Garmin InReach Explorer+ satellite messenger and GPS navigation device. Root Glacier, Alaska.

FIRST AID KIT
This post describes the contents of my preferred first aid kit for ultralight trips and expeditions. 

REPAIR KIT
I have found that the most common repair is a tear in a fabric. For example, a sharp rock cuts through backpack fabric, abrasion wears through a packraft tube, a branch tears rain pants, or an ice axe that’s being used as a stake in the alpine tundra comes loose and punctures the side of the tarp. 
Here are the items I bring in an “ultralight” repair kit and an “expedition” repair kit for a trip with two people:

Ultralight Kit
  1. 10 ft Tyvek tape - for repairing tears in fabrics. 
  2. Two alcohol swabs - for cleaning fabrics, especially inflatable sleeping pads and packrafts, before applying Tyvek tape.
  3. 20 ft. 1.2mm Dyneema cord (0.25 oz) - for replacement shoe laces, shelter guyline, backpack repairs, lashing things to a pack, etc.
Expedition Kit
Everything from the ultralight kit plus:
  1. 10 more feet of Tyvek tape
  2. Two more alcohol swabs 
  3. Floss
  4. Needles (two sizes) stored in a small rectangle of closed cell foam cut from a sleeping pad.
  5. Patagonia Expedition Sewing Kit - for serious repairs to packs, shoes, boats, and thick materials. This only weighs 0.6 oz without the case.
  6. Aqua Seal - versatile glue for shoes, packrafts, and for reinforcing or waterproofing sewn repairs. A large tube weighs 1.4 oz. Also available in a small tube.
  7. Super glue - Unlike Aqua Seal, this glue is rigid when it dries. It’s useful for repairing hard objects like trekking pole grips and plastic parts. Rarely needed but only 0.2 oz. 
Looking at topo maps in the Gates of the National Park Ranger Station.

KNIFE - RECOMMENDED

See the first aid kit post above.

BEAR SPRAY - RECOMMENDED 

Many people have traveled thousands of miles through the arctic and subarctic wilderness without ever using bear spray. I also I know two second-degree connections who were killed by bears in the last two years. I bring bear spray just in case. Larger commercial airlines do not allow this in checked luggage. It’s often best to purchase locally. Also, I tie a 16" piece of cord around the mouth of the metal canister and add a loop with an overhand knot at the end. This cord can dangle on the outside of the pack for easy access and the loop at the end can be used to clip the bear spray to something if needed. 

ODOR-PROOF FOOD STORAGE - RECOMMENDED 

Loksak Opsak 
I bring one or two of these large bags to store food in at night. I place them above my head, where they help to keep my pillow (extra clothing or gear) in place. 1.5 oz each. $15 for two at REI.

WATERPROOF BAGS FOR ELECTRONICS - RECOMMENDED 

Loksack Aloksak
This variety pack of bags is excellent for waterproofing a phone, battery bank, camera, etc. They are even touchscreen compatible. $15 from REI.

NAVIGATION - RECOMMENDED 

GAIA GPS
This app revolutionized backcountry navigation.

PRINTED MAPS - RECOMMENDED

After planning my route in Google Earth and sending it my phone and InReach, I upload all route files to caltopo.com and print paper maps, which I store in a Loksack Aloksak bag. See the photo below.

STUFF SACKS - RECOMMENDED 

I have found that lightweight non-woven Dyneema stuff sacks do not stand the test of time. In my opinion, they are not worth buying. Rather, I prefer a thicker, heavier non-woven Dyneema dry bag style stuff sack for my sleeping bag. I will also bring one or twoMoutain Laurel Designs Large Pro Silnylon sacks for extra clothing and food storage.

COMPASS - RECOMMENDED

Suunto M3 Global
With a compass on my watch and my phone, I rarely use a precision analog compass. On committing trips, I carry one in case my electronics die. A more compelling reason to bring a compass is it allows you to not bring any electronics. One can navigate and tell time with the sun and a compass. As far as specific product recommendations, I defer to Skurka on the M3 Global. See this post for his experience and rationale in selecting this model. 1.6 oz and $59. See it on Amazon.

SHOULDER POCKET - OPTIONAL

ZPacks Shoulder Pouch
I prefer to store my camera in a pocket that attaches to a backpack shoulder strap. Unlike competing products with zippered closures, the ZPacks model has a drawcord closure that’s easy to open with one hand. When the weather is good, I place my camera directly in the pocket. During hard rain and river crossings I put the camera in Loksak bag before putting it in the shoulder pouch. 0.5 oz and $29.

ALTIMETER/GPS WATCH - OPTIONAL

Suunto Ambit3 Peak
If you want a watch that has an altimeter, can record a GPS track for your route, and has exceptional battery life (200 hours with a one-minute recording interval), consider the Suunto Ambit3 Peak. I bought this watch several years ago based on Andrew Skurka’s recommendation and have been most impressed. 3 oz and $285 at Amazon.

An altimeter watch and a shoulder pocket are two nice accessories.

WATER PURIFICATION - OPTIONAL

Katadyn Tablets
With some effort put into route planning, there is no need for water purification in Alaska. Many people have traveled thousands of miles without it. The only time I have purified water was floating out the lower Kobuk river, where all incoming streams drained from tundra ponds and bogs. Even after looking at the topo, it was difficult to assess water quality without getting out of the boat and climbing up the 20 ft bank. Then, we purified most of our water using Aqua Mira. Since then, I have carried four Katadyn tablets in my first aid kit just in case the only water source is suspect. 

HEADLAMP - OPTIONAL

Black Diamond Storm
A headlamp is not needed in the summer. For the other three seasons, I bring a bright light with a long-distance beam that’s capable for route finding and off-trail navigation. I have learned, through testing bike lights for OutdorGearLab, that quantitative tests are necessary to properly evaluate headlamp performance, particularly battery life. You cannot trust manufacturer claims regarding headlamp performance. Randy Spurrier, co-owner of OutdoorGearLab, has run their headlamp review since its inception. I believe that is the most credible review on their site. The Black Diamond Storm wins GearLab’s Editor’s Choice. 4 oz and $50. 

Why not use an ultralight rechargeable headlamp like the Petzl Bindi? Because a bright light is required for off-trail navigation. Wasting hours stumbling around in the dark is not worth the 2 oz weight savings. Also, a cell phone flashlight app weighs nothing and works well for occasional use.

CAMERA - OPTIONAL

Sony RX100 VI
A zoom lens is what I want most in a pocketable camera. It allows me to capture images that my phone cannot. I have owned two generations of the Sony RX100 and love it. Most of the photos shown here were taken with it. The latest version of the camera offers a 24-200mm zoom lens, which makes it, according to dpreview.com, “a spectacularly capable travel camera.” When my current camera dies, I plan to replace it with the RX100 VI. 10.7 oz and $1199. See it here.

Taking a photo with the Sony RX100 pocket size camera
I enjoy a pocket sized camera with a zoom lens. 

BATTERY BANK - OPTIONAL

You’ll need to calculate your expected changing needs in order to find the best battery bank for your trips. I own two: the Anker PowerCore 5000 (4.7 oz and $20) and the Anker PowerCore 20100+ (16 oz and $70). To save a small amount of weight and space, consider a short USB charging cable.

Midnight in July in the Chugach Mountains.


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Ultimate Alaska Backpacking Gear - Part Four: Summary Spreadsheet + Rarely Needed Items

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

This is the third post in a four-part series that aims to curate the current best available tools for lightweight human-powered landscape crossings in Alaska. Navigate to the other posts here:

Part 4 - See below

Walking along the Foss, a ramp-like glacial feature, on the western edge of the Kennicott Glacier.

SUMMARY SPREADSHEET

This summary spreadsheet lists all products, their weight, cost, and describes why they are exceptional. The sheet is organized into four categories:

Highly recommended - Best-in-class performance for the Alaskan environment and climate.
Recommended - These items can increase comfort, convenience, and safety. To go ultralight, don't bring some or all of these.

Optional - Unnecessary items that can further increase comfort and/or happiness.

Substitute - Though not as versatile, these products can perform better than the Ultimate Choices for specific applications.

The goal with categorization is to distinguish between the things one may need and the nice-but-not-essential items. Click here to see the spreadsheet on Google Docs. You can copy it to your Google Drive or download it as an Excel sheet. 

Wolf print.
Now for the final section in this series:

THINGS THAT ARE RARELY NEEDED

Bear Canister / Ursack
An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. With decent campsite selection and cooking habits on a traveling trip, there is no need for a bear-resistant container to store your food in. Most experienced Alaska wilderness travelers do not bring them. Rather, a best practice is to cook dinner and then travel more before setting up camp, where you put your food in a Loksak Opsak bag (see the spreadsheet or Part 3 - Accessories for more information). The exception to this practice is basecamping. If you are doing a basecamp trip, protection for food can be essential. The Ursak Major has become the go-to choice. It is the lightest option approved by the National Park Service. Another proven option for group basecamping is a battery-powered electric fence. 

Insulated pants
Insulated pants can be really comfortable for the short amount of time we spend in camp before climbing into a sleeping bag. However, I do not recommend them for lightweight human powered trips spring through fall. Here’s why:

1. They are not comfortable in motion. Unless it’s frigid outside, windproof insulated pants are generally too warm and insufficiently air permeable for use while moving. In my experience, they are only comfortable for use in motion when it’s really cold and windy outside (e.g. below zero Fahrenheit). Above freezing, they can become a hot, sweaty, wet mess when worn under rain pants in the rain.

2. They are fragile and expensive. Synthetic insulation, especially the short-staple varieties most commonly used, are legitimately fragile. They degrade quickly with compression. Sleeping in them regularly will ensure they have a short lifespan.

3. They are heavy. The extra insulation from wearing pants in your sleeping bag weighs significantly more than adding extra insulation to your sleeping bag. For example, the ultralight $150 Nunatak Skaha Pant weighs around 7 oz. Adding another three ounces of down to a sleeping bag would be warmer and last years longer.

4. Thermal bottoms are warm enough. I find that the two thermal bottom system described in Part 1 - Clothing (one for walking, one for sleeping) is warm enough for three season trips where the emphasis is on travel. If I am still cold, I’ll drape my sleeping bag around me.

I generally wear insulated pants in the winter. Here are two photos I took when insulated pants are great.


Dan wearing down insulated pants on the world's largest non-polar icefield. 

Zeb wearing down insulated pants around 19,000 ft. in the Alaska Range

Waterproof footwear - Not recommended
Since we have no choice but to spend a lot of time walking through rivers, creeks, and wetlands, it’s best to have a shoe that drains quickly. I do not own any waterproof shoes. In the winter, I'll add vapor barrier socks or put my feet in plastic bags (a vapor bag that I already have with me from storing food). For more information, Andrew Skurka has a good summary of when waterproof footwear is beneficial. 


Frolicking on a river in December. I don't own any waterproof shoes because they are less comfortable and less versatile than normal shoes that have ventilation and drain easily. In the winter when there's not much snow, normal shoes and socks work fine. If I'm walking through deeper snow that can melt and chill my feet, I add vapor barrier socks. 

Camp/river crossing shoes - Not recommended

For safety and comfort, cross rivers in shoes or boots that securely attach to your feet. Do not use sandals or Crocs. I start eat day knowing that I’ll have wet feet all day. And I rejoice when I massage them and dry them in the evening before climbing into the sleeping bag, where they become toasty warm. 


Zeb, doing a river dance in Denali National Park. I have found that trail running shoes, such as those pictured here, which drain easily are the most comfortable shoe for three-season wilderness travel. 
I found these lost objects on a 20 ft stretch of river near Anchorage, below a common ford site. Two different sandals, a paddle, and a sleeping pad. This point of this photo is to demonstrate that it's important to use shoes that fasten securely to your feet. 

Looking down several thousand feet from a ridge in the Wrangells.


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Part 1 - Introduction and Clothing

Backpacking Capitol Reef National Park with a dog

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Dogs are prohibited from backcountry areas in national parks. I support this policy because most are poorly trained. If allowed in national parks, they would foul the “natural atmosphere” and have mild ecological implications. Despite my support for the policy, Sarah and I planned a 90-mile route into and through Capitol Reef National Park with her dog Seldom. We chose to violate the no dog policy because we felt Seldom would have no significant adverse implications to humans or the environment:
  • He has no negative social implications. He does not bark at people or dogs outside and rarely shows interest in other dogs. The only potential negative impact is on people’s perception of nature and "wilderness." That is, someone might become disturbed by seeing a typically urban pet in a location they believe to be wild. But, compared to the average backpacking dog, this is rare because we rarely hike on trails, rarely camp in established sites—we most commonly go to places without other people.
  • His environmental impact is equal to or less than a human’s for three reasons: (1) He doesn’t chase and therefore has little impact on wildlife. (We have a near perfect success rate at calling him back from moose, bears, mountain goats, deer, birds, etc; (2) The area of his paws is smaller than my feet—he crushes, for example, less cryptobiotic soil than I do; (3) Like ours, his poo can be buried.
I believe Seldom’s excellent behavior combined with our route selection and low impact camping practices make it reasonable for him to join us on certain trips through backcountry areas in some national parks. Capitol Reef being one of them.


The Route
We planned a 90-mile mostly off trail route from the Coyote Gulch trailhead to the Capitol Reef visitor’s center in Fruita—alongside, through, and on top of the reef. The original aim was to do this in October, but our 80-mile Escalante trip took longer than expected (we intended to combine them into one trip) so we rescheduled the reef for the first week in January. 

Hitching in blue, walking in pink.
Better than being sick in a warm house
I caught a cold when we were leaving Nebraska and Sarah felt like she was coming down with one. We went forward with the trip because, as Sarah said, “being sick in canyon country is better than being sick in a warm house in a warm bed in Salt Lake City.” Through we felt weak and tired, it was totally worth it; coughing up green phlegm in a gorgeous canyon was far more enjoyable than in my bed.

We covered the ~110 miles from our parked car to the start of the route with only six miles of walking—a lucky feat considering the rural roads and low season traffic. We rode with a Mormon family from Salt Lake, cabin owners from Salt Lake, California road trippers, a fourth generation local rancher, and California landscape photographers. The California road trippers asked us why Seldom didn’t have a pack, which made us realize that we left his pack and food in the car. Oops!

Wading through the unfrozen Escalante river with air temps in the 20’s was frigid. I carried Seldom on my pack across the open water, breaking through the ice on the banks, so he didn’t turn into a frozen fur ball. He loved it. Farther up, the river had three to four inches of ice in some places; we tiptoed across, sometimes dragging our packs behind in case we broke through.

Walking through Stevens Canyon was a blast. There are several areas the easiest route crossed slickrock benches in order to avoid pour overs. Great fun. The ice pools were also fun to walk on and we smashed them with big rocks to get drinking water.





The ice completely changed how we interacted with the canyon—rather than wading through pools, we slip and slid across them.





On the afternoon of the third day we bailed from our route in hopes of hitching on the Nottom-Bullfrog road back to our car. This decision was motivated by the snow, which had arrived in quantities that would have made our high, slickrock route unreasonably dangerous and much slower. We were also moving slower than normal, our bodies felt tired and achy from being sick, and I had a flight to catch in two days.

We exited east and walked to the road where we immediately caught a ride with some archeologists who were surveying BLM roads. They carried us out of their way for 15-20 minutes. Then we walked for several more hours into the darkness without seeing any other vehicles. The next morning we woke up at 4:00 AM to 3” of fresh snow and set off down the road (6” of snow) expecting to walk the remaining 30 miles to Highway 24, where we could hitch to our car. Remembering walking in the pre-dawn hours munching energy bars and watching color return to the landscape makes me smile. A friendly rancher from Utah Sandy Ranch picked us up and drove us the remaining distance back to our car. We walked about 16 miles by 11 AM and were darn tired—Sarah had a sore throat and I was still expelling green phlegm. We could see the happy exhaustion in each others faces.



$125 fine for Seldom
We took almost no care to hide Seldom from park employees: we parked in front of the visitor center’s main entrance and filled out a permit (during the process we had to lie about not having a dog and that person later saw us with Seldom—she knew we were breaking the rule). Further, when we returned to our car Sarah went into the visitor center where the person she lied to saw her and called in a ranger. We voluntarily showed the ranger our intended route with ~50 miles in the park, described how our actual route differed from the intended. 

Both the ranger and the visitor’s center employee described the rationale for the no dog policy. We refrained from arguing why Seldom’s impact was less than that of the average dog (or person?) and that grazing cattle in the park (much of the park appeared to be grazed) has a greater ecological impact and a causes a much greater reduction in people’s perception of “wilderness” than allowing the rare dog to accompany the rare backpacker. Instead, we accepted the fine as the cost hiking with a dog and as punishment for our lack of effort to avoid park employees.

Despite the sour ending, this was a lovely trip in stunning country. We are both excited to return to finish the reef scrambling and canyoneering route. Reflecting on the region in general, I suspect Coyote Gulch to Stevens Canyon to an exit on the Nottom-Bullfrog road is one of the best short trips (2-4 days) in the Southwest.

Ski Tracks, Ptarmigan Peak: route description and topo

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Last Sunday, Cory Hinds and I climbed Ski Tracks, a 8-10 pitch mixed route on Ptarmigan Peak that's seven miles from my house. The route gets its name because ice (normally) forms in two parallel lines near the top of the north face and could appear like ski tracks. Cory drew a topo and typed up a route description, which I'm posting here because it's the only way for it to reach the public (he wrote it for the Alaska Mountaineering Club's monthly publication, which only reaches paying members).

We had a blast of a day. Biking in five ish miles on packed snow and climbing mostly easy mixed terrain with some snow slopes. The wind picked up in the afternoon and sent torrents of spindrift down on us. The last two pitches were the thinnest Cory has seen them (he's climbed the route five other times). We reached the summit at 3:30 PM, enjoyed some sunshine, splendid powder glissading, and bombed back to the truck on the bikes. This was the most diverse day trip I've done in the last several years--we had everything from fun and easy biking, frozen hands, vicious spindrift, a bit of post holing, and stunning view of countless mountains including Denali. What a great day.

Ski Tracks Topo


Pitch 1

We found a little bit of ice. And had great views--Denali is the distant bump on the right.




Summit view--mountains beyond mountains!


Cory's Route Description
Pitch 1:  Start at the first major bulge of rock on the right side of the north couloir, at the base of an obvious weakness in the mountain trending up to the right, approximately 500 feet from the bottom of the couloir and ~1 hr hike from the Powerline.  Kick steps up a short slot, clipping a fixed pin on the right when it steepens.  Climb through and around blocks and steps with good jugs and frozen turf, passing a fixed spectre on the right (crux #1).  Continue straight up to a set of slings around a block.  Clip the slings with some long runners and traverse right another 30 meters or so to another block with slings on the shoulder (low angle but run out).

Pitch 2:  Ascend the easy snow ramp, placing protection in the rock wall on the left.   Stop at a left-trending ramp before reaching the ridge crest, and before reaching a rock wall with black streaks.   We found a fixed tricam at the anchor, a few steps up the ramp.   Recommend simul-climbing the ramp to the anchor.   

Pitch 3:  Climb the left trending ramp and turn the corner to the right up into a chimney.  Stem past a chock stone then stem up and exit left (crux #2) at the top of the chimney.  Traverse left 10 m or so after exiting the chimney, and up around a broad ridge to a snow field.   Climb the snow field to a short face where you will find a fixed anchor.

Pitch 4:  Walk right up a snow ramp into a major amphitheater with a steep rock wall at the back.   There are various options here.  Go left to the ice if the ice is in good shape.   If it looks too thin (which it often is), descend back to the center of the amphitheater and kick steps up the snow ramp on the right side of the amphitheater and set a belay left of an obvious weakness in the rock wall.  

Pitch 5:  Climb through the weakness, finding good rock protection and exciting moves with good foot steps and some frozen turf (crux #3).  At the top of the short wall (40 m or so), move left and up across a snow ramp to first possible belay anchor in the rock wall above.

Pitch 6:   Move left and around a short corner.  If ice to the left is good, climb the steep step.  If it is rotten, climb lower angle rock and turf to the right of the ice, up through an awkward squeeze slot.  Then ascend left across some lower angle ice and up into the right Ski Track gully.  Belay at a crack at the top end of the first rock wall on the left side of the gully.   

Pitch 7:  Climb straight up, over a short steep ice step and through a lower angled snow field.  Belay at base of next steep pitch.

Pitch 8:  Climb up the steepening couloir, typically filled with ice.  This is moderate ice climbing, maybe grade 3+ or 4-.   Near the top of the couloir, the route steepens and the ice sometimes thins (crux #4).  If the ice is too thin, look for options of rock protection in the left wall.  In low ice years (like January 2016), this can make things very exciting, with a long runout. Top out around a final small boulder and look for a fixed spectre in the next crack on the left.   Your partner can walk up onto safe ground and belay you up.   

Walk up to the right up an obvious ramp and top out on the ridge then turn left and walk to the summit.   Enjoy the view, then hike off the backside, down through Ptarmigan Pass, and back down to Powerline.

Patagonia Grade VII Review: The Best Down Parka Ever

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Overview 

I have had the great privilege of testing all of the best down parkas in the world—over 20 models worth more than $12,000. Of these, the Patagonia Grade VII is by far the best. It is the SpaceX rocketship of down parkas. No other parka offers:
  • As much warmth and a voluminous expedition fit for the low weight of 24 oz; 
  • The outstanding comfort and convenience of eight pockets;
  • The most comfortable down parka hood I've ever used; 
  • Lightweight yet robust fabrics with welded construction to further increase durability in high wear areas. 
For lightweight human-powered activities in cold weather, there is nothing finer. If I were to have one down parka, it would (with great enthusiasm) be the Grade VII.

The purpose of this review is not to convince you to buy a $900 parka. Rather, the goal is to expand upon a Down Parka State of the Market Report that will be published by BackpackingLight by explaining in greater detail why this parka performs exceptionally well. In my opinion, the Grade VII is a work of art that deserves to hang on the wall in a museum. It is so good that, sometimes, I exclaim “wow!” and “oh my gosh!” when I put on. This is the only piece of outdoor gear I own with a high existence value--I derive happiness from knowing that it exists. 

The most sophisticated piece of outdoor clothing ever made

Box baffled down parkas are the pinnacle outdoor product. They are the most difficult type of clothing to construct—significantly more difficult than three-layer waterproof breathable jackets. The Grade VII is likely the single most sophisticated piece of outdoor clothing ever made. Casey Shaw, the lead designer, told me it was developed with no commercial costing concerns. The goal was to build the best possible parka and then consider taking it to market. The construction is so complex it took him a month to sew it. Then he spent a week training the best seamstresses at the factory “all the tricks and complicated maneuvers” necessary to build the baffles and pockets. He said, “No one probably needs this level of execution, but one rarely gets the opportunity to pursue excellence at this level.”

Using the Patagonia Grade VII parka on Mt. Logan, Canada.

Key Points and Specifications 

  • This is the only premium down parka with 100% box baffled construction
  • Myriad small baffles provide outstanding down stabilization, resulting in no cold spots and a higher warmth to weight ratio 
  • Welded seams increase durability and water resistance in high wear areas
  • Robust fabrics will last for years of hard use
  • Expedition cut accommodates extra layers
  • Ultralight - only 24 ounces in men’s medium
  • The most sophisticated piece of outdoor clothing ever made
  • Performance is far superior to competing $800-$950 parkas
  • $900 retail price
  • See it at Patagonia.com 
Patagonia Grade VII hanging out in an expedition basecamp, Denali National Park,.

Comparing the World's Best Down Parkas

The two tables below show performance scores and key specifications for each parka I've tested in the last two years. Many fine parkas (including the Montbell Mirage, Arcteryx Ceres SV, and Feathered Friends Volant) were excluded from this round of testing due to their inferior performance for lightweight human-powered trips in cold weather.

The chart below shows total performance scores for each parka. Note the outstanding performance of the Grade VII using the criteria and weighting shown in the table above. 

In manipulating the weighting of the scoring criteria, I found the Grade VII scored the highest until the weight criterion (weight of the parka) consumed approximately 70% of the total score. This finding reinforces field testing, which concluded that the grade VII is the down parka. Below around 18 ounces, none of the parkas I've tested have been able to keep me warm on multi-day trips and/or have the features I find important on multi-day trips. For that reason, I don't know of any down garments that weigh less than 18 oz that qualify as a "proper parka."
Performance Comparison

Warmth

Though it only weighs a couple ounces more than standard down parkas, the Grade VII is significantly warmer. Perhaps 50% warmer. It is ideally suited to high altitudes and polar expeditions. The Grade VII is by far the best parka for climbing technical routes at high altitudes. It is also the best choice for any ultralight human-powered activity in really cold weather. 

As with all expedition parkas, it also works well for standing around in the cold for a long time in a basecamp. But if you're just standing around, there's no need to the efficiency of the Grade VII; a heavier parka such as the Feathered Friends Khumbu shown below will work fine.

Note the difference between the length of the Patagonia Fitz Roy (left), Patagonia Grade VII (center), and Feathered Friends Khumbu (right). Of all the parkas I've tested, the Grade VII has the warmest and most comfortable drop-seat. Completely covering the butt adds a lot of warmth. Also, unlike the Khumbu and many other parkas, the front of the Grade VII curves up to save weight and prevent interference with a harness.
Baffle Design
Box baffles are warmer than sewn-through baffles. The illustration below shows the difference. 
Credit: Nunatak

The Grade VII is the only parka I’ve used that employs 100% box baffled construction. Most others reduce warmth by using sewn-through construction. For example, the $825 Western Mountaineering Snojack uses sewn-through baffles under the arms. Similarly, the Feathered Friends Khumbu has a sewn-through hood. And, finally, the $950 Arcteryx Firebee AR uses pleated construction, which is not a true box baffle.


No other parka has as many box baffles as the Grade VII. Most of them are small, designed to stabilize the down. This is the key factor that separates it from the competition. For example, the Grade VII has nine baffles to stabilize the down in the shoulder area. Most other parkas have one single baffle here, which allows down to shift to the bottom of the baffle, leaving a cold spot. 
The Grade VII parka has nine baffles across the shoulder area for superb stabilization. Due to the complexity of building these baffles, many other parkas have only one baffle here, which can result in cold spots.

The chart below shows warmth scores for 12 parkas tested.

Weight

My men’s medium weighs 24.1 ounces. This is incredibly lightweight considering the level of warmth, expedition cut, eight pockets, and large helmet-compatible hood. Other parkas weigh less. But they perform at a much lower level. For example, the Feathered Friends Hooded Helios weighs 17 ounces. It is cut short—nearly a belly shirt on me—has sewn-through baffles that create cold spots, doesn’t have an adjustable waist so lots of cold air enters, has no internal drop-in pockets, doesn’t even have zippers on the small handwarmer pockets, and the hood is too small for comfortable use with a helmet and doesn’t have a rear adjustment to reduce the volume when you’re not wearing a helmet. The Hooded Helios saves seven ounces, but you’ll be shivering when someone in the Grade VII is toaster warm.

The chart below shows weight scores for 12 parkas tested. Higher scores are better. See the table above to compare the exact weights of all parkas tested.

Features

This variable assesses the presence and quality of features that I have found to increase comfort, convenience, and warmth. he Patagonia Grade VII is leagues ahead of all other parkas when it came to its features. Here are a few highlights:
  • Huge adjustable, helmet compatible hood with a high collar that protects the neck and chin - this is the best hood of all parkas I’ve tested;
  • Long drop-seat completely covers the butt - this adds a large amount of warmth. Unlike other parkas, the bottom baffle hangs lower than the hem adjustment to further increase warmth;
  • Two exterior chest pockets - this is the only parka I’ve used with two chest pockets. They are great when you want to securely store smaller items (for example, a lighter or your phone) while reserving the handwarmer pockets for your hands;
  • An expedition fit is easily capable of accommodating two puffy midlayers;
    Elasticized stitching in the interior back of the parka pull it close to your body, eliminating the need for a separate drawcord, which is used on other parkas;
  • Two handwarmer pockets are insulated on both sides;
  • Two waist adjustments with cords that stow up, inside the interior pockets;
  • It is the only parka with four interior drop-in pockets, two of which are off to the side for greatest visibility of your feet. Also, it is the only parka with drop-in pockets have mesh at the bottom to let snow out;
  • Elasticized wrist cuffs are easy to pull over gloves and mittens and can also pull up over your elbows;
  • Excellent arm mobility.
Overall, the features on the Grade VII set a high bar that no other parka comes close to. 

Here are some superb features found on the Grade VII parka: (1) drop-in pocket off to the side to allow for good visibility of your feet; (2) standard drop-in pocket; (3) dual draft tubes insulate the zipper without getting caught in the zipper--the best design of all parkas tested; (4) mesh lets snow out of the pockets! (5) hem waist adjustment stows inside the pocket to prevent it from snagging on a harness.
Fabric flaps cover the handwarmer pockets to prevent snow from entering when you forget to close the zippers. Also not the large, highly visible zipper pull.


The chart below shows the features scores for 12 parkas tested.

Durability

The Patagonia Grade VII has one of the highest durability to weight ratios of all down parkas I’ve tested. It uses the Houdini fabric (a 1.2 ounce per yard 15-denier) on the arms, chest, and shoulders. No other fabric in this weight class can match the strength of this fabric. For example, here are the tear strengths for different premium lightweight fabrics used by Patagonia:

Grade VII Houdini (1.2 oz 15-denier): 3600 x 2800 grams of force (gf)
Grade VII back and sides (1.2 oz 20-denier): 3350 gf
Micro Puff synthetic insulated jacket (0.7 oz 7-denier): 1400 gf
Fitz Roy down parka (1.0 oz 20-denier): 1300 x 1150 gf

As you can see, the Grade VII fabrics are twice as robust as other premium lightweight fabrics. 

The Grade VII’s durability is increased further by welding all baffles on the Houdini fabric, which is used in high wear areas (the darker blue fabric in this photo). The advantage of this construction method is there are fewer holes in the material, which means you can’t abrade the stitching, thereby reducing the likelihood of a tear.

The chart below shows the durability scores for 12 parkas tested.

Compressibility 

Compressibility can matter more than weight. With this in mind, Patagonia chose the 20-denier fabric instead of the Houdini for the back and sides because it is more supple and compressible. The result is a remarkably small packed size for an expedition grade parka.

Water Resistance

When a down parka is the best tool or the job, moisture comes from the Inside, not outside. I have found that highly water-resistant shell fabrics are not beneficial when used in down parkas designed for lightweight human-powered activities., They are not needed. Worse, they increase dry time. 

To prevent moisture from entering the Grade VII, Patagonia added small fabric covers over the handwarmer pockets. These serve to prevent blowing snow from entering the pockets when we forget to close the pocket zippers. This feature can be particularly important when climbing at altitude, when the human brain is deprived of oxygen and more likely to make errors, such as forgetting to close pocket zippers. Also, I think it contributes to the Grade VII’s handsome aesthetics.

Value

For a premium down parka, the Grade VII is the best value. It performs significantly better than all other parkas in its price range: Western Mountaineering Snojack ($825), Arcteryx Ceres SV ($850), Arcteryx Firebee AR ($950).

Testing the Western Mountaineering Snojack, Feathered Friends Khumbu, and Patagonia Grade VII down parkas.

Best applications 

The Grade VII is best suited to technical climbing at high altitude where one needs a very warm parka, durable enough for cramped belays surrounded by sharp rocks, with lots of pockets, all at the lowest possible weight and smallest packed size. The Grade VII is also the best for other pursuits in extreme cold that demand a low weight and small packed size. For example, a 200-mile unsupported ski tour in the Arctic in December.

Compared To  


Low Price: Montbell Frost Line - This is only $289 and performs significantly better than the Mountain Equipment Lightline, the cheapest parka tested, as well as many parkas that cost $100 more. This is my highest recommendation for anyone who doesn't use a parka often or doesn't need a "properly warm" parka. The Frost Line ties with the Feathered Friends Hooded Helios as the least warm parkas tested. I need something warmer.



Best All-Purpose: Patagonia Fitz Roy - This is the parka I use most frequently. I choose it for almost all day trips because I don't need the warmth of the Grade VII. It has some top-notch features borrowed from the Grade VII (e.g. dual draft tubes, excellent helmet-compatible hood, above average down stabilization, etc.) This is the parka I recommend most frequently to people looking for a versatile, lightweight model. $449.


Lowest Weight: Nunatak Kobuk Down Hoodie - This is the lightest fully-featured, box baffle parka that's warm enough for multi-day trips. Nunatak allows you to choose from a variety of fabrics and other custom options such as increasing the sleeve length and back length. When made in the 7-denier Robic fabric, a custom option, the Kobuk only weighs 18 oz. The Kobuk does not perform as well for climbing as the Fitz Roy because the hood, pockets, and dangly adjustment cords are inferior. But it is slightly warmer and 2 oz lighter in the standard fabric. The Kobuk costs $575 in the standard fabric when built with a similar pocket configuration as the Fitz Roy. 

Mountaineering Guides: Feathered Friends Khumbu - If you spend several months guiding and teaching mountaineering each year, I recommend the Khumbu. This is the warmest and most durable parka tested. It's superb for standing around in the cold. It would also be excellent for other applications in frigid conditions where low weight is not important, such as living in the Arctic. 35 oz and $499. If you don't mind carrying around a two-pound parka, the Khumbu is an excellent value for truly frigid conditions. 

Conclusion

The Patagonia Grade VII is the best down parka in the world. I recommend it only if you are attempting a challenging trip in very cold weather where saving weight is critical to success. It is too warm and unnecessarily high performance for everyday use. However, if you have the privilege of using one, I am confident you'll immediately notice the outstanding craftsmanship. To learn more, watch Steve House share his thoughts in this video on Patagonia's website.

Grade VII parka on a ski mountaineering trip in the Chugach Mountains, Alaska. 

Grizzly

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A poem by my uncle about backpacking in Denali:

Thin
And, Flapping all day,
The north side
of this thin rip-stop tent
Goes quiet,
At midnight
And reddish,
From sunset...

Think of them,
As surrounding den’s’
a ground squirrel’s,
An excavator,
Tearing up the tundra,
Scooping aside Dwarf Willow chunks and peat,
Burrows left shredded,
Then eating them,
Juicy,
fur and all
Not washing paws
Not picking up.
Juicy.

Or
Head first,
Eating berries,
Leaves and all.
Then, asleep in their furskins.

Beyond us,
On the next gravel bench
Along side this quitting glacier,
Sheep eat the tundra,
Tiny willows and Drius and Labrador teas.
Then bed down
On their food
On their table.

Morning.
Sun’s been up for hours,
Wind’s up again,
Surrounding me,
Bowing the tent sides,
Like a bosom.

Caribou lope close,
Racks glance back:
“Man,
They go places for place.”


We should carry claws.

2019 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Ski Classic: Part 1 - Preparation

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Intro

I have been interested in doing the winter ski classic “race” for several years. This is an unsupported point to point landscape crossing event with a dozen or so Alaskan wilderness lovers. The main barrier to me participating previously was cost. I needed to pay the $300 entry fee and get a pair of narrow cross country skis with metal edges, which cost about $500 with Dynafit toe piece bindings and skins. This year, the event was back in the Wrangells—crossing part of the park south to north. John Wros ask me to join him on a beautiful 130-mile route that began in McCarthy and climbed 8,000 feet up a series of glaciers and then wound down, over, up, down, up, and eventually to Tok. This route was particularly appealing to me because I spent weeks looking up at those mountains and glaciers in the summer of 2017. I wanted to go there! My mother paid the entry fee (thanks, mom!). I bought the requisite skis. I was in!

Cross-Country Ski Preparation

On average, since 2005, I have been cross-country skiing less than two times per year. After spending the early part of the winter focused on climbing, I was nervous about getting into shape for a long cross-country ski journey. In order to prepare, I spent about 90 hours on skis—skate, backcountry nordic, and backcountry touring) between January 1 and mid-March. That’s an average of 11 hours per week. The most enjoyable aspect of that period was the three overnight trips that put my new skis to use. Here are brief descriptions, maps, and photos for those trips.

Powell - Nelchina Loop 

In early January, John and I attempted to complete a loop that was far too long for the allotted three days. The highlight of our one night out was skiing under a full moon up the Matanuska river—no need for a headlamp! We shared the Feathered Friends Spoonbill sleeping bag and didn’t sleep much because we were cold. When we got out of the tent around 8:00 AM, it was -20 degrees Fahrenheit. Realizing our loop wasn’t possible, and all other loops were too involved for our level of motivation, we turned around and skied back to the car. Even though we only went 26 miles total, this trip kicked my butt and demonstrated that I needed to spend some more time on skis one the next two months.
The Powell to Nelchina Glacier loop. On our first day, leaving the car around 10 AM, we only made it to the tent symbol. Realizing we needed more than three days for this loop with the deep snow conditions, we turned around.

John skiing along the side of the Glenn Highway on our attempted Powell-Nelchina loop trip.
John skiing along the side of the Glenn Highway on our attempted Powell-Nelchina loop trip.

Enjoying the cold January morning.

Most of the Eklutna Traverse in a day

This was my third time on this classic backyard glacier traverse. I love it, particularly starting at sea level in Girdwood and immediately climbing up 5,000 feet above the temperate rainforest to the Eagle Glacier. This outing is a bit over 30 miles. It’s great to travel fast and light by staying at one of the Mountaineering Club of Alaska Huts.

The Eklutna Traverse follows the green line across a series of gentle, local glaciers. The orange arrow is my house in Anchorage. The red pins and other points are locations I've slept in the backcountry.
We saw a curious skin track that turned out to be a 🐐track, and later caught up with the team on their morning stroll.

Gaining Goat Ridge. Credit: Johnathan Rupp
Gaining Goat Ridge. Credit: Johnathan Rupp

Credit: Johnathan Rupp.

Girdwood to Knik

Girdwood to Kick (orange line) follows the path of least resistance around the Western Chugach mountains.
Girdwood to Kick (orange line) follows the path of least resistance around the Western Chugach mountains. 
The trip was about 55 miles. We spent two nights out. Over a few passes, off a glacier, around a glacier, across a few lakes, and down a river. This is another world-class outing in the backyard. It was my first time skate skiing on snomachine trails and overflow--really fast and exhausting with a pack on. 

These three trips and some outings around town boosted my confidence about skiing all day for five or more consecutive days. More importantly, it was great fun to see some new places using tools that are much faster than my backcountry touring skis. 
Over the passes leaving Girdwood. Phenomenal skiing in this area!
John's boot was frozen to his NNN ski binding so he climbed up this section with one ski on and later endured a long alder bash also with one ski on. On the Classic, he carried a small thermos with hot water help remove the iced-in boot.
Skiing along the river at the toe of the Lake George Glacier.
Skiing along the river at the toe of the Lake George Glacier.

Death, Dreams, and the Baranof Traverse

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This morning, Malcolm called me to share that our friend Danny died yesterday. 
The rock beneath his foot broke and he fell down the mountainside. We had lived together for a time. He woke up at 6 AM and ground coffee by hand. He sent women long handwritten love letters with watercolor paintings via snail mail. For a couple years, he summered by himself in a cabin on a beach in Lake Clark National Park where he played guitar on the porch for an audience of salmon and bears. He lived a simple life with an ease and free-flowing happiness that are uncommon in today’s world. He will be missed.


Danny backcountry skiing
Danny


I have been wrestling with my passion for the same dangerous outdoor pursuit that killed him. I love being in the mountains and in wild places. It is where I feel most at home, most at peace, most alive. It feels satisfying to learn, to progress, to employ a depth of knowledge about the environment, and combine skills acquired over years. The challenges posed by evaluating and mitigating risks, problem-solving the unexpected, and navigating relationships and communication challenges with partners—they have been some of my best teachers. 


I have had a few known close calls. 

One was when I almost rappelled off the end of a rope on El Cap. I felt the rope go through my brake hand and instantaneously—without conscious thought—let go of the Gri-Gri in an attempt to stop. Only the last inch of rope was caught in the camming device. I quickly fastened an ATC onto an adjacent rope and yelled to McKenzie, above, “I almost died!”

A second was when I fell into a crevasse unroped and was precariously stoppered by warm, adhesive summer snow. It pinned me at my chest. My legs were dangling in midair, fifty feet above the cold, blue bottom of the crack.

A third was when three of us were rescued from 16,000 feet on Mt. Logan’s East Ridge, while one of us had high altitude cerebral edema, a popped sleeping pad, a soaked sleeping bag, and the weather was closing in.

A fourth was when I paused for a quick snack and drink, and a huge wet loose avalanche poured off the cliff above and fell 100 feet in front of me, smothering the entire slope in six to eight feet of heavy mush. If I hadn’t stopped to snack, I would have been buried alive and alone.

I am embarrassed by all of those close calls and haven’t told many people about them. 

Far more frequent are the times when I was not aware of the close call. The crampon stayed on the micro edge during the subtle shift of my hips from left to right. The rubber sole stuck to the steep sandy slope above the cliff. The moss beneath my foot held onto the rock beneath. My timing, angle, and balance upon two skis were just right. Life went on.

I have been fortunate to receive three grant awards for trips in memorial of people who died in the mountains. Karen McNeill and Sue Nott remain frozen somewhere on Sultana’s Infinite Spur. Johnny Copp and Micah Dash died in an avalanche in China. This year, at the last minute before the deadline, I applied to the Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award to make my third attempt at my dream of traveling across Baranof Island’s wild ridgeline from the northern tip to the southern tip. Kyle died on Ogre II in Pakistan. I was awarded the grant in his name. The award committee said, “he would be psyched.”

Thirty minutes after Malcolm called with the news about Danny, I boarded a Cessna Caravan for a flight to Dillingham for work. In the front seat, I cried thinking about Danny. His passing is a painful reminder that life is precious and oh so short. It is a reminder that the most important things in life are spending time with loved ones, making this world a better place, and pursuing your dreams. 

I’m going to Baranof in six weeks. I’m excited and nervous. I plan to return from there alive, healthy, darn tuckered out, and wiser and happier as a result of the experience.

Cheers to this marvelous and precious life that we live.


Southern Tip.jpg
This is the southern tip of Baranof Island. 

Hyperlite Mountain Gear Dirigo 2 Review

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Overview

Thus far, I hesitate to recommend the Hyperlite Moutain Gear Dirigo 2. Compared to single pole pyramid shelters, it is not as weather resistant, not as comfortable, not as durable, and not as versatile. I believe this shelter is best suited to bug-season hikers who do not have the time or desire to learn the skills necessary for using ultralight shelters like flat tarps and pyramids. For example, the Dirigo might be the best available tent for my mother, who goes backpacking a few days per year in the summer, wants to save weight, and doesn't have the campsite selection and pitching skills to use other shelters. She would love it! However, for fast and light trips, long-distance landscape crossings, and winter use, other tents offer greater performance and value. Here is some more summary information before the longform review:

The Dirigo weighs 28 ounces, employs a hexagonal shape, and has an integrated floor and bug protection. It pitches with two trekking poles, has two doors, and enough space for two shorter people to feel comfortable inside. Since you cannot remove the floor or bug netting, this tent is best suited to trips where bug protection is a necessity for the majority of the trip. Think swarming mosquitos. Also, the Dirigo’s reasonably stable design makes it more qualified for use in exposed environments with high winds compared to its closest competitors, such as the ZPacks Duplex. However, based on my experience thus far, the Dirigo will not replace Hyperlite’s UltaMid 4 as my favorite do-everything-well shelter.  Consider: what backcountry activities you are likely to pursue over the next five to ten years? If summer backpacking is your only activity, read on for my take on the Dirigo. If you will pursue multiple activities and want an ultralight shelter for year-round use, I suggest crossing the Dirigo off your list and, instead, read my long-term review of the UltaMid 4.

Testing the Hyperlite Mountain Gear Dirigo 2 on a ski mountaineering trip in Alaska's Chugach mountains.
Field Testing
I used the Hyperlite Dirigo 2 on a two-night ski mountaineering trip in Alaska’s Western Chugach mountains in late March. We skied, climbed, and hiked about 25 miles and with around 9,000 feet of elevation gain—reaching three summits. Eric took some beautiful photos on the trip, which you can see here if interested. I used the Dirigo as a pillow the first night because we stopped skiing at 9:30 PM and slept under the stars for expediency. At $800, the Dirigo was the most expensive pillow I have ever used. We pitched the tent the second night and slept better because it blocked the wind. This review is my first impression of the shelter based on using around 75 different tents and sleeping inside the Dirigo for only one wintry night. I will use the Dirigo over the summer and update this review with other results in the fall. 

Performance Rating

Weather Protection

Wind
I suspect the Dirigo will perform well in high winds—likely leading its class in this area. This is not the typical ultralight shelter meant only for summer hiking in good weather and protected campsites. Thanks to the low angle walls, hexagonal shape, and strong Dyneema Composite Fabric, it appears to be capable of higher wind speeds and gusts. However, I do not believe the two-pole design will be as stable or as quiet as single pole pyramids. 

Rain
All shelter fabrics are waterproof. In my experience, when it comes to keeping you dry inside, what matters most is resistance to splashback. That’s when water ricochets off the ground and enters the tent under the wall. Distance from the wall and the height of the bathtub floor or groundsheet are important here. I’m guessing the Dirigo will perform well in most off-trail environments, where you can select absorbent campsites (e.g. moss, tundra, etc.). If I were choosing between the UltaMid 4 and the Dirigo for a week in the rain, I’d choose the UltaMid 4 in a heartbeat because (1) its larger area provides more opportunity to escape splashback; (2) you can enter the shelter (standing) with all of your wet clothes, lay down a groundsheet on one side of the tent, change into dry sleep clothes, and cook dinner (on the bare ground) inside the tent, and attach the floorless bug netting to the four corners at anytime if you want bug protection. Also, if you are approaching six feet or taller, your head and feet are guaranteed to touch both ends of the Dirigo during a rainy, windy night. Overall, I don't believe this shelter is large enough to perform well on wet weather trips. Ryan Jordan, in his Dirigo review, concluded the following: "In its current form, I cannot recommend it for use in humid or very rainy environments."

Condensation
In my experience, this type of tent is prone to condensation and you just need to deal with it. It's one of the drawbacks associated with saving some weight compared to a larger pyramid shelter and bug insert. In the big picture, the condensation is not a big deal and should not be a primary factor in choosing what type of shelter is best for your needs. (Other factors like weather resistance, livability, weight, durability, etc. matter more.)

Snow
Like all single wall tents with integrated bug protection, the Dirigo 2 performs poorly when pitched in deep snow. It should, however, be plenty capable of handling the unexpected late summer or fall snow storm, where it’s pitched on dry ground or in a couple inches of snow. Unlike traditional floorless pyramid shelters, the Dirigo is not an ideal choice for deep snow and blowing spindrift. Here are a few observations based on my experience with it in the snow:

Don’t use the grommets. In deep snow, we learned that the tent cannot be effectively pitched in the traditional three-season method (where adjustable poles tension from the bottom grommet to the sleeves in the peak). When we tried this, we lost several inches of headroom because the poles are largely unsupported by the snow and rely solely on the grommets. (The poles sink below the level of the floor.) As you can see in the photo below, both grommets bent and pulled partially out of the fabric! Pitching the tent well in snow requires adjustable poles with snow baskets or some type of harder surface to support the poles. 

Floor maintenance required. A second reason I don’t recommend using the Dirigo 2 as a four-season tent is the inner tent hangs from the roof by lightweight bug netting. You must pitch the tent and then adjust the level of the floor by adding or removing snow. If there is too much snow under the floor, you have less headroom. If there is too little snow under the floor, your weight could tear the bug netting. Traditional double wall tents, such as all Hilleberg models, address this risk by using elasticized toggles that stretch before they tear. That design is more forgiving than what is employed by the Dirigo and all other similar shelters made for lightweight summer hiking. 

Snow loading Regarding the ability to endure snowloading without collapsing, I have not tested this and do not plan to. The Dirigo has relatively low angle walls, which are great for shedding wind, not snow. I do not intend to use this shelter again in a “real winter” environment. 

Insect Protection

What share of your outings require bug protection? That is a critical question to examine before purchasing a tent with an attached floor and bug netting that cannot be removed. Personally, I haven’t needed a shelter with bug netting in almost four years. Here in Southcentral, Alaska the bugs come out in April and extend through July. That’s only four out of twelve months. During the months with flying insects, I seek out campsites that are away from prime bug habitat and ideally in areas that are more exposed to wind. This works well. In the summer of 2017, I spent over 40 nights out in floorless shelters without bug protection in Southeast Alaska, the Wrangells, and Southcentral, Alaska. In early August 2018, I used a floorless pyramid when backpacking on the north side of Denali National Park. We were comfortable. Sure, there were a few nights where I lost a bit of sleep because we were forced to camp in buggy areas. Overall, however, I was happy to not be carrying something that was unnecessary for the majority of the trip. For me, the Dirigo’s attached bug netting makes the shelter fit for use only in very buggy places. I view the attached bug netting as a drawback. When paying top dollar for a high-performance shelter, the versatility of being able to add insect protection when needed increases performance. Simply put, I prefer floorless tarps and pyramids without fixed bug protection.

Livability

The Dirigo 2 is a small shelter that is cramped for two tall people. Compared to my favorite shelter, the Hyperlite UltaMid 4, it is downright uncomfortable. The Dirigo’s main livability advantage over the typical ultralight shelter is the two separate doors that allow two people to enter and exit at the same time, or get up in the middle of the night without climbing over someone else. Eric is 6’ 2” and I am 6’ 1”. There was enough space for the two of us to sit up. Our heads and feet were touching both ends of the shelter at the same time. A few extra inches of length would help us taller folks. A small overhang in front of the two doors creates a small area with the illusion of weather protection. We stored our ski boots there and, since it was not windy, they did not fill up with snow (snow protection would be required if there were significant wind). Is this area a vestibule? No, I don’t consider it to be a proper vestibule because if it were raining out, I would expect the area to get wet from splashback. 
Eric melting snow outside the Dirigo 2 awning
Dirigo 2 awning with ski boots.
Removable pocket
Our heads and feet were touching the top and bottom of the tent at the same time. We concluded that the Dirigo is not long enough for us (6' 1" and 6'2"). This photo also shows the small panel of waterproof breathable fabric.

There is not much extra space inside the Dirigo. I consider it to be two-person "bivy" tent for summer. 
Even with four people, the UltaMid 4 is more comfortable than the Dirigo. Also, when there are lots of bugs, you can cook inside a pyramid shelter with a floorless bug insert (on the ground inside the bug netting). With the Dirigo’s sewn-in floor, I would not use an alcohol stove inside the shelter.

Durability

The Dirigo is likely to be the most durable tent in its class (single wall with integrated bug insert). However, this is a class that is NOT known for its durability. I do not trust the average “ultralight tent” in high winds. That includes dedicated pole supported tents such as those made by Big Agnes and MSR. I’ve watched them become flattened and broken in high winds. With the strong fabrics and dual trekking pole setup, the Dirigo leads its class in protection against high winds. This is a huge advantage compared to other similar shelters. Again, though, the strongest and most durable type of ultralight shelter is the single pole pyramid.
One area for the Dirigo’s improvement lies with the door design. Most tents capable of handling high winds and snow have a clip to transfer tension from away from the zipper. Unfortunately, the Dirigo does not have this feature. I recommend that one clip be added to each door.
The Dirigo does not have a clip to transfer tension from the zipper to the fabric, a standard feature on pyramid shelters and all four-season tents.
Due to the poles not being adequately supported in the deep snow on the night that used the tent, bug netting by the door was under tension and ripped. For the same reason, both of the grommets used to secure poles partially failed. This was disappointing and does lend credibility to the “bombproof and foolproof” claim that Hyperlite used in the Dirigo’s marketing. See the photos below. 
Grommet failure on the Hyperlite Dirigo 2 during the first night of use. The grommet deformed and pulled partly out of the surrounding fabric.
Due to pitching the poles in the grommets in deep snow, tension caused the bug netting to tear.

Versatility

Testing thus far reinforces my hypothesis that the Dirigo performs best during bug season. Though it can be used throughout three seasons (and winter if you are closer to the equator where there is less snow), it performs best during that single buggy season, when the attached bug netting is beneficial.

Weight

Ultralight means choosing between what is nice and what is necessary. Is the Dirigo 2 an ultralight shelter? Yes, during the times that bug protection is necessary. Most of the time this shelter is used, however, it will be a “lightweight tent.” I believe the Dirigo is best for people who want a lightweight tent but do not have the time or interest I learning the lightweight backpacking skills that are necessary to use a flat tarp or a pyramid. As for the numbers:
The Dirigo 2 weighs 28 ounces. The Hyperlite UltaMid 4 weighs 23 ounces. Carrying the UltaMid’s floorless bug netting and a polypro goundsheeet brings increases the weight to one pound more than the Dirigo. My hypothesis is: on most trips, bringing the UltaMid and bug protection is worth the extra eight ounces per person. I look forward to testing this hypothesis over the summer and reporting back. Also, let me repeat that most of the year bug protection is not necessary and the UltaMid 4 weighs less than the Dirigo.

Packed Size

Packed size often matters more than weight because it allows you to take a smaller and lighter backpack. One thing that surprised me when using the Dirigo was its larger than expected package. The carbon center support and associated rigging add substantial bulk. This is not a large drawback for most lightweight hikers. However, if you are doing a long-distance thru-hike or anything where saving weight is a top consideration, the extra bulk of the Dirigo compared to tarps and pyramids is substantial. 

Value

This tent is expensive compared to other DCF summer shelters. An example of an environment where the Dirigo 2 could be a good value is the Arctic, where there are both a plethora of insects and vast open areas with no protection from wind. There, in the summer, it would be most uncomfortable to squeeze by with a flat tarp without bug protection. I plan to take the shelter on an expedition to the Arctic Refuge this summer. 

Compared To

ZPacks Duplex 
The Duplex is the Dirigo’s closest competitor. I have used it and its predecessor, the Hexamid, both in the Lower 48 and in Alaska. The Duplex weighs 9 ounces less than the Dirigo. That’s a lot! However, it is not as capable of enduring high winds and may not be as durable. How often do you camp above treeline in storms? Could you walk another hour to drop into a valley or find a natural wind break? The Duplex is also $200 less expensive than the Dirigo. 
Neither the Dirigo nor the Duplex are reliable winter shelters. This photo was taken from ZPacks website and shows their Duplex shelter in a scenic location. Unfortunately, as it is pitched now, the shelter is mostly useless. It should be pitched tight against the ground with the edges buried in the snow to combat spindrift. Also, the small rocks and vertically positioned ice tool will not withstand high wind. Further, the Duplex's large unsupported panels make the shelter less capable of higher winds compared to the Dirigo. 
UltaMid 4 
The Dirigo 2 weighs one pound less than my UltaMid 4 with a polycro groundsheet and Hyperlite’s four-person floorless bug insert. With two people, that saves eight ounces per person—approximately four Snickers bars. For me, on most trips with two people, I would rather have the bombproof reliability, comfort, and versatility of a true pyramid shelter (my UltaMid 4 weighs 23.9 ounces) and add bug protection (16.7 ounces) when needed. 
The Hyperlite UltaMid 4 is a palace for three people and is more comfortable for four people than the Dirigo is for two. This is my overall favorite ultralight shelter. Photo from the 2019 Alaska Mountain Wilderness Classic. Credit: Jan Tomsen.

Mountain Laurel Designs SoloMid XL
 
I own a Dyneema Composite Fabric SoloMid XL (12.5 oz) and use it on two-person trips where saving weight is the top priority and we need the wind resistance and snow loading protection of a pyramid shelter, not a flat tarp. Since I enjoy the large size of the UltaMid 4, I prefer the SoloMid for shorter trips of one to three nights. If you’re on a budget, consider the silnylon SoloMid XL or DuoMid. Adding a silnylon Inner net weighs 14 oz and costs $185. That’s around 35 ounces and $450.
Mountain Laurel Designs DuoMid, February 2019.

The Mountain Laurel Designs SoloMid XL is my favorite ultralight two-person pyramid because it only weighs 12.5 ounces and can handle the worst conditions. When pitched on snow, it has significantly more interior space than the Dirigo. March 2019. 

Conclusion

Despite the arrival of the Dirigo 2, the Hyperlite Mountain Gear UltaMid 4 is still my favorite ultralight shelter. I believe the weather protection, livability, durability, and versatility of the UltaMid 4 are unmatched. Those statements are supported with ample evidence presented in my long-term review of the UltaMid 4. However, if you want a no-fuss/no-skills-required summer tent for buggy trips without much rain, the Dirigo could be the best option on the market. I’ll use the shelter a bunch this summer, and update this review in the fall. In the meantime, to learn more, see more Dirigo 2 video and specifications on Hyperlite’s website. 

Updated Hyperlite Mountain Gear Dirigo 2 Review + reflections on how to buy things

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I updated my review of the Hyperlite Moutain Gear Dirigo 2 tent after using it since March. You can see the revised review, with photos from the Arctic Refuge and local outings, here.

Did my opinion change after using the tent with four more people for several weeks? No. I learned more about the tent's advantages and disadvantages, but I got things 90% right after one snowy night in March.

It has been interesting to see how different media cover the tent. Most outlets have a financial interest in writing a good review--you earn $64 each time someone clicks through to buy a Dirigo from your site! ($800 x 8% commission.) When faced with these incentives, it's hard for businesses to write critical product reviews.

Some folks that attended the media launch event in Arizona wrote positive reviews
GearJunkie: their review appears to be an expanded version of a manufacturer's press release
Adventure Alan: "we think Hyperlite Mountain Gear hit a bullseye in tent design"
The Trek: "badass new shelter"

Some folks have not fully recommended the tent
BPL: "In its current form, I cannot recommend it for use in humid or very rainy environments."
Section Hiker: "my advice would be to hold out until the Dirigo 2.0 version ships and the shelter is refined still further."

Others recommend it
Switchback Travel"it’s one of the most complete designs on the market for serious ultralighters"

My bottom-line position on the Dirigo is: most people should skip this type of tent and get a modular tent that's more versatile and more durable.

What a bummer! My affinity for the great people who work at Hyperlite as well as my remaining student loan balance wish that I could say, "the Dirigo is amazing and I highly recommend that you buy one right now."  (I do, however, feel that way about the Hyperlite UltaMid 4 and please click this affiliate link to buy one.)

Nowadays, few outdoor media outlets provide the critical cross-category analysis that is necessary to help us get the best thing for our needs. Most reviews are optimized for google search rank and are designed to provide advice within the category you are looking for. For example, if you are searching for a softshell, you'll find the Best Softshells of 2020. The point of that article will be to direct you to one item of a small sample size, which the business wants you to buy. The ultimate goal of your search, however, is not finding the best softshell for your needs, it's finding the best jacket for your needs. Though you may not yet know it, the best jacket for you may not be in the softshell category.

To truly find the best jacket for you--one that matches your physiology (do you sweat a lot?), your activities (70% backcountry skiing/ 30% ice climbing?), your style (are you a light and graceful skier or a hard-charging beast?), your environment (dry fluffy Utah or heavy and wet Washington?), the conditions that you tend to go out in (sunny, temps 0-25 F), etc.--is through experimentation (try a dozen or more!) and through not-short personalized conversations with experts in product design and materials in that specific field. The best folks to chat with are those who have at least a decade of design/construction/testing experience. Those folks are rarely the sales staff at REI. Those folks are also rarely the athletes and ambassadors who have marketing contracts. (Ambassadors spend their time training and on trips; you want to speak with people who have spent their time thinking about gear). The answer, especially with clothing and ski boots, can involve great complexity.

Unfortunately, online reviews are either a labor of love or are intended to make money. I am critical of how affiliate sales have shaped media. They have driven a race to satisfy google and sell you things. Yet, I fully recognize that this (OutdoorGearLab) is exactly how I was able to earn enough money to fuel my focus on climbing (2010-2014). I realize that there is value in enabling businesses to exist for the purpose of helping to inform our decision-making. My displeasure comes from seeing an increasing number of reviews that have high influence, but low efficacy at directing us to what might truly be the best thing for our needs.

Arctic Village to Kaktovik

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I have wanted to visit the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge for a decade. The goal of this trip was to spend time with good friends in this special place. We visited in June and July 2019. This post shares a few stories and images from the trip.

Willow Cooktop

Cooking over an open fire greatly enhances the wilderness experience and one’s sense of place. Forging for dried grasses and twigs; collecting an armload of willow sticks; finding a suitable surface that will not be impacted; whooooooo! whooooooo! whoooooooo! to get the flames started; rotating around the fire to avoid being in the thick of the smoke; clothes absorbing the smell; sitting around watching the flames. These are simple pleasures that are eliminated by a traditional efficient cookstove. Whenever possible, we used a willow stick cooktop. 

Making a campfire in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
Credit: Anna Joseph


Making a dinner over a fire in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge

Too close for comfort

Despite planning the trip months in advance, these happened at the start: 
  1. The day before we left, our two canoe-style paddles arrived on the doorstep. 
  2. On the morning of our departure, two two-person loaner packrafts arrived via FedEx Express.
  3. I thought we’d be fine arriving at the Anchorage airport 40 minutes before departure to Fairbanks. That was not the case during the mid-summer tourist blitz. After stressing through the security line, we sprinted toward the gate in our socks wearing our PFDs, drysuit filled with clothing flying behind as I ran because there wasn’t enough time to repack it into a bag. Alaska Airlines had just closed the gate door, but they reopened it for us.
  4. In Fairbanks, 45 minutes before our flight to Arctic Village, the chief decision-maker at Wright Air Service told us we could not fly with our alcohol fuel as it was packaged in lightweight plastic bottles. It MUST be in metal containers, she said. Feeling responsible for finding a solution, I asked a young woman packrafting guide in the waiting room to borrow her car to drive to Fred Meyers to buy metal fuel bottles. I approached her in front of all of her clients. We had never spoken before but she loaned me with her car ten minutes before her departure to the Arrigetch. I sprinted through Fred Meyers, unable to find fuel bottles. Instead, we flew our alcohol fuel in double-wall metal thermoses, which we gifted to someone in Arctic Village. In mid-September, I saw the woman again at a mutual Anchorage friend’s wedding. Her name is Jewel. 
These events resulted from piss poor planning. The reality is: I was treating this trip as a casual outing and didn’t want to put the time in to obsessively plan it, like an expedition. I enjoy uncertainty, mystery, and adventure. So much of our lives are run on schedules, rules, and processes. For something that does not require a high level of precision for success and safety, I like the challenge of figuring things out in realtime. A lesson I learned on this trip is: though I may enjoy uncertainty on a trip where I have a high level of confidence, our group did not. 
Molly and Anna having a ball tromping through the tundra.

Bearanoia 

Anna had an extreme case of bearanoia. I attempted to serve as her bearapist before and during the trip. To address her concerns pre-trip, I supported her desire to bring three cans of bear spray for five people, cook dinner and travel more before camping, and put our food in odor-proof bags at night. As we were getting ready for bed on day two she told me she had many nightmares of bears back home in Denver. Yet she came! That takes serious courage. She is a strong woman. 

Bugs

This year, I was astonished by the abundance of bugs. They occupied the airspace in high density from the valley floors all the way up to the highest elevation we traveled over. Imagine thousands of cubic miles filled with bugs. Molly’s research found that the amount of mosquito biomass in the Refuge exceeds that of caribou. Our group quickly discovered which human was the most succulent. However, as soon as we descended out of the mountains onto the coastal plain, the bugs disappeared. This is why the Porcupine Caribou herd chooses the 1002 Area as its calving ground. See the 1002 Area in the map below. 


A cloud of mosquitos
Credit: Anna Joseph




Record-breaking heat

Alaska experienced record-high temperatures during this trip. I took a photo of my watch to remind me that it was 64 degrees Fahrenheit when we were climbed into our bags at midnight one night. Consequently, some of us enjoyed walking in our underwear during the day. 


Will in the record-breaking Arctic heatwave

Teaching, behavioral health, nursing, the West, and climate change

We had ample time to chat about life, work, places, people, passions, and shoot the shit. This was really nice. 

Anna and Chris doing "the frog" stretch.

Route switch

I went into this trip expecting that our group would do the ultra world-class route that we planned over a variety of mountains into the glaciated headwaters of the Okpilak River. This is the stunning U-shaped valley that catches the eye from 3,500 miles above earth (try it in Google Earth). Early on in the trip, however, we decided instead on Plan B—the Hula Hula. Since reality was less than my expectations, this was disappointing for me. Yet the real-world consequence was trivial. Our route and experience were great. World-class. In retrospect, our group should have approached the trip with the expectation of doing the Hula Hula and viewed the other route as an unlikely bonus.

Looking at maps to inform which route to travel
A moment of tension after a long day of walking: debating which route to take.


Time to chill

With our route switch, we had a few extra days for side trips, chilling, reading, and relaxing.
Day trip from the Hula Hula. Credit: Chris Simrell
Another day trip from the Hula Hula!


We had the Hula Hula to ourselves

My primary concern with doing the Hula Hula was: it’s the trade route. I expected it to be full of other parties on rafts going luxury style. I wasn’t interested in being around that. However, we saw no one else and only a few signs of human activity (e.g. rocks moved by people at campsites). It felt wild. It was wild. And it was beautiful. In total, we saw one other person en route to Kaktovik. 


Anna dancing in the boat.


No drysuit

The only type of packrafting that I currently pursue is wilderness: gentle rivers where packrafting is definitively the most efficient form of travel. I have never owned a drysuit and chose not to borrow one for this trip because I have shivered through a couple hundred miles of cold Arctic boating before and I assumed we would do the Okpilak route which involved significantly more days walking. Though I was planning to be FRIGID COLD AND MISERABLE while boating out to the ocean for those days, the warm temperatures and little rain made things relatively balmy. So nice!




Coastal Plain

The place that struck me most on our route was the coastal plain, a novel place for me. Many other rivers in Alaska meander out gradually to the coast, ending in vast flat deltas. For example, the Kobuk River loses only six inches of elevation per mile along its exit to the Chukchi Sea. This state’s largest and flattest example is the Yukon-Kuskokwim River Delta, whose mouth is as wide as the state of Utah! However, the rivers in this part of the Arctic Refuge move swiftly north, with a good gradient. There were nearly continuous small rapids to keep the paddling engaging. Then, moving out into the plain gifted us with gorgeous views of the mountains we came from, stretching as far we could see to the east and west. We found ample evidence of the recently-departed caribou herd. Countless footprints, small antlers, and bits of fur.

Credit: Chris Simrell





Barrier Islands

We paddled out to the barrier islands west of Kaktovik and crossed them into town. The travel on this day was diverse. The river transformed into a wide delta that became so shallow and quick-sandy it was easier to carry our boats on the adjacent tundra. We paddled across the mouth of Arey Lagoon to an island, put our boats away, walked along the sinuous island, paddled across Kuvritovik Entrance, and walked the spit onto Barter Island. We cooked dinner with water from a dark brown tundra tea puddle, which resulted in a significant debate about water quality. Then we walked through Kaktovik around 11 PM. We saw lots of polar bear prints on the narrow island and spit, but thankfully no animals. 
Barter Island as seen from the flight west to Deadhorse. We floated out from the left of the drame and the islands into town.

Channel hopping from the Hula Hula River to Arey Lagoon.
Crossing the narrow barrier island toward Kaktovik. Credit: Anna Joseph


A small (front paw) polar bear print compared to my hand.

Great Infrastructure

The north slope communities have very nice infrastructure compared to most of Alaska’s rural communities. (Thanks to revenue from oil production.) Kaktovik had a beautiful new airstrip and a new subdivision fully constructed for future development—roads built, traffic signs installed—ready and waiting for houses if/when the population increases. 

Polar Bear Watch

On our last night, camping out by the airstrip in Kaktovik, we all engaged in a round-the-clock polar bear watch. I found it to be a most worthwhile experience because we slept out under the sun and there were no bugs. My shift was from 2:00 AM to 4:00 AM. The air temperature was 38 degrees Fahrenheit. I used the time to jot down some reflections, watch the sun, myriad wildflowers blowing in the wind, the Arctic ocean, and lots of birds flying overhead. It was a wonderful, slow way to absorb the place before jumping back into the frontcountry hustle.

View west at 3:00 AM during my polar bear watch in Kaktovik.

Feathered Friends Tanager Sleeping Bag Review

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My favorite ultralight bag for going fast and light.
Feathered Friends Tanager ultralight sleeping bag

My Sleeping Bag Strategy

The world’s best sleeping bag collection hangs from an old kayak paddle in the basement of my 1951 ranch home here in Anchorage. Between the furnace and the cement wall that was dug out by hand many decades ago, eight of the finest-crafted cocoons lie ready for adventure anywhere on the planet. Though it’s nice to have this arsenal that offers maximum performance for all activities, I use two sleeping bags the majority of the time. One is the Feathered Friends Lark UL 10, which is my all-purpose, year-round, go-to. The other has become the Feathered Friends Tanager 20 CFL, which comes with me when I want to go faster, farther, or enjoy the comfort of carrying less weight. For many of us, this two-bags-do-most strategy is an efficient way to approach owning sleeping bags. 

Over the last year, the Tanager has become my favorite ultralight sleeping bag. So much so that I sold my Katabatic Gear Palisade quilt! I prefer the Tanager because it is warmer, more comfortable, and easier to use. This review describes why I choose the Tanager from a deep field of high-performance ultralight sleeping bags.

Feathered Friends Tanager: Specifications and Features

  • No hood
  • No zipper
  • 950-fill goose down
  • 19-20 oz depending on the size
  • Crazy Freaking Light fabric
  • $369
Waking up in the Feathered Friends Tanager with a dog on a summer backpacking trip in the Western Chugach Mountains, Alaska.
Waking up in the Feathered Friends Tanager with Seldom (dog) on a glorious summer backpacking trip in the Western Chugach Mountains, Alaska. 

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Performance Assessment

Weight

As a rule of thumb, consider building your sleeping bag collection in one-pound increments. For example, the lightest bag weighs around a pound, the next bag weighs around two pounds, etc. This method addresses a wide range of temperatures without requiring an entire room/garage/basement/REI to store sleeping bags. A four-pound down bag will be warm enough for the vast majority of frigid places in the world--you can stop there. If you desire, the next step is filling in gaps with double sleeping bags for extra weight savings and extra fun. 

Which bag to choose in the one-pound range?  
This is our opportunity to elect either warmth or versatility. You cannot optimize for both.

Warmth

Four things are required to optimize warmth in the one-pound range:
  1. Crazy freaking light fabric. Less than one ounce per square yard. Most manufacturers are using 7-denier fabrics. At 0.59 ounce per yard, ZPacks uses the lightest fabric.
  2. The best down. At least 900-fill goose down for compressibility and low weight.
  3. No unnecessary junk. From a minimalist perspective, this means no zipper, no hood, no dead air space, no-frills.
  4. Box baffles. To increase loft, the bag must be made with box baffles. This increases the insulation value of the bag dramatically compared to sewn-through construction. See the diagram below. 
diagram showing box baffle construction and sewn-through construction
I prefer ultralight sleeping bags with box baffle construction because they are warmer than sewn-through bags.

Using those criteria, we can eliminate all mummy sleeping bags from consideration. We can also eliminate most 30-degree and 40-degree bags, which have sewn-through construction. What remains are box baffled quilts and hoodless hot sacks.

I agree with Feathered Friends’ 20-degree rating on the Tanager. I have used the bag several nights in winter temperatures down to 10 degrees and was warm with appropriate clothing. 

Beelzebub Case Study
On a bike to hike to ski to climb Mt. Beelzebub in early April in the Chugach mountains we camped at 6,200 feet. The temperature in the shelter was 10 F when we woke up. I wore the following in the Tanager:
  • Patagonia Capilene Thermal bottoms
  • Arcteryx Gore-Tex bibs
  • Patagonia Airshed
  • Patagonia Nano-Air Light
  • Patagonia Macro Puff
  • One pair of light ski socks

I slept on a Therm-a-Rest Uberlite pad, which I put on top of my backpack. (This is significantly less insulation than my traditional winter sleeping pad.) Two of us used the Mountain Laurel Designs SoloMid XL pyramid tarp. (Double wall tents are warmer.) 

In the Tanager, I was warm and comfortable. Also, this was an efficient system because I needed all of the clothing for the rest of the trip. Here are a few photos of us in the shelter and the glorious campsite. 

winter camping with the Feathered Friends Tanager sleeping bag
Beezlebub campsite. The Feathered Friends Tanager is pictured on the left on a summer sleeping pad and a backpack inside a pyramid tarp.
Mountains covered in snow
View of our Beezlebub campsite (center).
Continuous Horizontal Baffles
Many sleeping bag manufacturers are switching to vertical baffles for three-season bags. This design provides better down stabilization than horizontal baffles. Additionally, according to a Patagonia sleeping bag designer who spent a day doing the math, vertical baffles save a small amount of weight. Contrary to this trend, however, the Feathered Friends Tanager uses continuous horizontal baffles. (Down is contained within a tube that wraps around the entire bag.) This is a good choice because it allows you to move the insulation where you want it. For example:
  1. Shift the insulation to the sides or the bottom of the bag in warmer temperatures. 
  2. Shift the insulation to the top and sides of the bag—removing everything from the bottom—on the coldest nights. 

No Drafts
Unlike perfectly trained quilt sleepers such as Andrew Skurka, I have never been able to sleep motionless on my back. Rather, I switch from side to side. Even with a reliable attachment system (e.g. Katabatic Gear) I often let warm air out from the underside of quilts. I appreciate that, with the Tanager, there are no open areas to transfer cold air. 

Versatility 

Two primary attributes are required to optimize the versatility of a sleeping bag in the one-pound range:
  1. Adequate warmth. The bag must be warm enough for you to sleep well.
  2. 3/4 length ventilation. The ability to vent the majority of the bag is helpful for enabling us to sleep on warm summer nights. This can be accomplished through a zipper, such as is done on the ZPacks Classic and Feathered Friends Flicker, or without one, such as on all quilts.

Most often, ultralight sleeping bags are not warm enough. I recall a weeklong trip across the high desert in March where three of us were miserably cold in 30-degree quilts. This problem is not unique to below freezing temperatures. For example, here’s an excerpt from a summer packrafting trip that Luc described:

Balancing weight and comfort, which is closely related to recovery, is tricky going into new terrain… Ben and Diana shaved weight by bringing +40 sleeping bags which turned out not to be warm enough… It is a constant game, trying to save weight but bringing enough stuff to sleep well at night. 

Rarely is an ultralight sleeping bag too warm. Sleeping bags serve the purpose of slowing the transfer of heat from your body to the surrounding environment. On hot summer nights, it’s easy to solve the “I’m too hot” problem. Just remove the sleeping bag. 

Hot Summer Night Case Study
High temperatures smashed all-time records in Alaska in summer 2019. I chose to test out the Tanager for several nights to see if the bag could work for me in the summer. 

When the air temperature was 69 Fahrenheit, I draped the bag over me like a blanket. Then, when my body cooled off and the air temperature dropped into the upper 60s, I climbed in and pulled it up to my hip. I woke up in the morning with the bag loose around my shoulders. The chart below shows the air temperature the night I just described. You can see my feet sticking out from under the bag I used it as a blanket. 

This chart shows the air temperature over time the night the photo below was taken. The temperature was 69 degrees F when I entered the tent.

Feet sticking out from under the Feathered Friends Tanager sleeping bag
The Tanager does not have a way to vent the lower body. However, you can drape the bag over you like a blanket. See my feet sticking out. Alternatively, you can pull it up to your waist. If it's really hot, you don't need a sleeping bag.
Based on my experiences this summer, I found that the Tanager to be comfortable when used as an ultralight bag, year-round, in my climate. I would not recommend it if you regularly sleep out when the temperature is above 70 degrees Fahrenheit at night. Then, you will be better served by an ultralight bag with 3/4 length ventilation. 


Backpacking with the Feathered Friends Tanager sleeping bag
Fall ridge walking with the Tanager.

Comfort

Typically, when evaluating sleeping bags, gear testers use this variable to assess the spaciousness of a sleeping bag. More space to sprawl about is more comfortable up until the associated weight hurts your back and legs when carrying more bag. Additionally, extra interior space makes the bag colder because increasing the “conditioned volume” requires either more energy or more insulation to maintain the desired interior temperature. 

The Tanager is a thermally efficient sleeping bag that is cut trim. I found there was plenty of space for me and the winter layering setup I described above. However, if you have a larger build—perhaps Men’s XL, I fear the bag will not have enough space for your body and a super puffy down parka.
If you’re interested in using the Tanager in cold winter temps (e.g. below zero Fahrenheit) with insulated clothing, I was able to fit in the Tanager with insulated down pants, a down parka, and wearing the big Intuition liners from my size 31 mondo backcountry ski boots. I suspect that setup would work well for a few days on a fast and light trip. Anything longer and I’d want a warmer bag and a vapor barrier liner. 

The adjustable girth on a quilt allows them to perform better when used with puffy down pants and a parka—no competition there. But I have never found myself using my least warm sleeping bag with expedition down gear.


Woman sleeping in the Feathered Friends Tanager sleeping bag
Jen climbing into her Tanager on a November 2019 ascent of Mt. Yukla's north face. She wore a sewn-through down jacket in the bag. Temperatures were in the low 20s Fahrenheit under the pyramid tarp. I was expecting it to be much colder and brought my Feathered Friends Lark UL 10, pictured in blue at left.

Ease of Use

This is the easiest type of sleeping bag to use. Just climb into it and cinch the neck closure. If you want to optimize the placement of the down, use your hand to move it around before climbing into the bag. That’s it. Unlike quilts, I appreciate that I don’t need to carry two cords with me and spend time each night strapping them to the pad and bag. I also appreciate that I don’t need to fiddle with the cord placement during the night. 


Feathered Friends Tanager in the Hyperlite Dirigo 2 tent.

Packed Volume

When going ultralight, packed size can be more important than weight because small things allow you to take a smaller backpack, which can save a lot of weight and increase comfort. With no zipper and only one small drawcord, the Tanager packs down very small. I have not measured the packed volume. No doubt, 40-degree and 50-degree bags—those with less insulation-will be able to compress slightly smaller. 


The Tanager comes with this stuff sack. The bag can compress to less than half this volume. 

Hard to Kill 

Charlie Sassara, an Alaskan alpinist, has said, “make yourself hard to kill …then chose partners that are equally or more difficult to kill.” 

Going ultralight involves a higher level of risk. Your objective demands so much from you physically and mentally that you need to bring as little as possible. When I’m engaging in an ultralight trip, I want to bring things that work. Things that are reliable.

I consider the Tanager to be a partner that’s hard to kill. Here’s why:
  • There is no zipper—the weakest link on all sleeping bags. 
  • Unlike quilts, there are no plastic clips or cords to keep track of or break.
  • The fabric has proven to be more down proof (fewer down clusters poke through the fabric) than those I've used from ZPacks and Nunatak.
  • The bag is made by a firm that has a remarkable track record of reliability. I have observed this over the last decade by using nearly a dozen Feathered Friends products. 
These give me great confidence that the Tanager will be a reliable partner for my adventures. 


Unlike quilts, the Tanager is effortless to deploy and doesn't require adjusting straps in the middle of the night. Also, I have a high level of confidence in the bag's construction quality. Shown here at 10 PM on a smoky night.

Compared To

The table below compares some of the best ultralight sleeping bags in the one-pound range. Below that, I share brief narratives for select bags. 




July 2019: this was the last time I used my Katabatic Gear Palisade 30 quilt before selling it and adopting the Feathered Friends Tanager as my ultralight three-season bag.

Katabatic Gear Quilts
I have used four Katabatic quilts since 2012. They have a reliable pad attachment system that is perhaps the best available for side sleepers. They also use a reliable 0.85 oz shell fabric. Their bags are designed with durability in mind and are beautifully made. I consider Katabartic Gear's Elite series to be the gold standard quilt to which all other quilts are measured. The Alsek is the Tanager's closest competitor. I currently own their Grenadier 5, which I use a few trips per year in moderate winter temperatures (above 0 F) when saving weight is the top priority. That bag weighs two pounds. 

I switched from the Palisade to the Tanager because I regularly woke up in the middle of the night fidgeting with the Palisade's pad attachment straps. I try to lock them to the cord deep under my back. Then I try to fall asleep on my bag and not move. But, inevitably, I turn on my side and cold air comes through the gap between the bag and the pad. When I started using the Tanager, I found that it was warmer and more comfortable than the Palisade. 

ZPacks Solo Quilt sleeping bag

ZPacks Classic Bag and Solo Quilt
The ZPacks Classic Bag (if you want a zipper) and the Solo Quilt (for no zipper) have a high warmth to weight ratio. I have used three versions of ZPacks’ bags. My favorite is neither the Solo nor Classic, but the Twin Quilt, which is made for two people. 

Unfortunately, I have never been "wowed" by the construction quality of a ZPacks sleeping bag. Whether it be the use of DCF baffle fabric (we have yet to see if this lasts for a decade or more of regular use), the barely adequate down proofing of the 0.59 oz fabric, or sloppy sewing in one area, ZPacks has yet to meet the exacting construction standards set by other manufacturers. For example, I am highly confident that their bags would not meet Patagonia's durability standards.

Manufacturers regularly test durability by assessing performance over time in washing machines. On their website, ZPacks cautions against washing their bags in a machine. They say, "If you do try a washing machine do so at your own risk using the delicate setting." 

Based on my experience with the Tanager thus far, the 7-denier 0.76 oz fabric that Feathered Friends selected is more down proof than the current 0.59 oz ZPacks Ventum fabric. Furthermore, Feathered Friends uses a 15-denier liner fabric on the Tanager, which is even more durable than the shell fabric. Through using close to a dozen Feathered Friends bags, jackets, and parkas over the last decade, I have never seen an issue related to their manufacturing quality. Thus, when selecting something intended to last me for the next decade, I have more confidence in the Tanager than a ZPacks bag. Feathered Friends down sleeping bag


Feathered Friends Flicker
In 2014, Feathered Friends sent me a prototype of the Flicker to provide feedback on. Though I appreciate the highly versatile design, saving weight is more important to me than versatility in an ultralight bag. I also don’t need my bag to convert into a blanket. However, it's a comfortable choice for warm-weather backpacking and camping!

Nunatak 
I have not used the current version of the Nunatak Arc UL. Based on my experience with three of their quilts, two down jackets, and one parka, I believe Nunatak is a great choice if you want a custom product. For example, if you want highly water-resistant fabric added to a quilt footbox. I currently own a Nunatak synthetic insulated quilt that I use only (and very rarely) in very wet conditions. 

Western Mountaineering Astralite
I have not used the Astralite and don’t plan to. Based on photos and others' opinions, I fear that the basic pad attachment system does not compare to Katabatic Gear’s design. 

Feathered Friends Vireo
I have used the Vireo at -10 Fahrenheit with puffy pants and a parka. I dislike this bag because it only has enough insulation in the upper half to warrant a 40-degree rating and therefore must be used with a down parka in cold temps. The Vireo is poorly suited to summer use. The Tanager is a better choice for most types of alpinism. Also, if you’re really trying to save weight, you’re going to share a bag with your partner; thus the Spoonbill or the Twin Quilt. 

Conclusion

The Feathered Friends Tanager 20 CFL is my new favorite bag for going ultralight in most seasons. For more info, or to buy it, take a look at the Feathered Friends website. 

Throttling Back and Turning Right

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I’m simultaneously feeling sad and relieved. I’m overflowing with optimism and excitement. I’m throttling back and turning right. 

Throttling Back 
The throttling back started in 2017. That year, I was rescued from Mt. Logan’s East Ridge, went skiing in the Alaska Range and packrafted out to town, failed at the Baranof Island ridge traverse a second time, and spent most of the summer in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. It summed up to five expeditions, more than ten weeks in the backcountry, and many wonderful experiences with people and invaluable life lessons. 

 That fall, I got a real job. In my first interview, we discussed my readiness to commit to a position where I’d need to rent myself to an organization for the vast majority of the year and be in an office instead of playing in the mountains. I was ready. I love challenges. This was a new challenge, a really big one, one that I felt was meaningful, and I was excited to give it a try. 

Since then, my outdoor goals have largely been immersion instead of intensity. I’ve dramatically scaled back my risk tolerance. I no longer have any desire for high altitude alpinism or any form of high-risk climbing. 
 

Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award 
In 2019, I thought I wanted to pursue an intense trip, but my heart wasn’t in it and I bailed. Specifically, I was awarded a Kyle Dempster Solo Adventure Award for a third go at the Baranof ridge traverse. Then, in April, my former roommate Danny died climbing a local peak when the block of rock he was standing on gave way and he tumbled down thousands of feet to his death. I reflected on this event and wrote about some of my own close calls [here]. If you read that, you’ll see I still thought I wanted to pursue Baranof. 

On a sunny day in early May 2019, I went out for a 30-mile valley tromp with a heavy pack. 12 hours in, I found myself wallowing through thigh-deep isothermic snow still several hours from the road. This type of activity was needed to be fit enough to have a reasonable chance at the Baranof ridge traverse. But I was bored. It felt meaningless. I had nothing to prove to myself or to others. I had been there before. I knew I could do it. 

 Earlier in the morning, I listened to the Firn Line podcast episode with Brad Miklejohn (recommended) while post-holing through miles of knee-deep snow. Brad described losing his family-member Kyle Dempster to an addiction to climbing and eventual death while climbing. “He was on a path that I barely survived.” “I’m sorry that Kyle is not here to contribute to this world..it’s just a damn shame.” 

 In the middle of a mile-long meadow of thigh-deep wallowing, I decided to cancel the Baranof trip. I immediately sat down in the snow and dumped out the 15 liters of water that I was carrying. My heart was not in it. I had the body, skills, and equipment to do it—but I didn’t want to. That decision made me feel immensely lighter. I later returned the grant funds for someone else to use for a purpose that better honors the objective of a solo adventure. 

Turning Right 
This brings me to turning right. 

 There is a time for everything. 

My last fifteen years have been a combination of education and work (priority A) and the intense pursuit of outdoor activities (Priority B). Priority B has resulted in phenomenal, priceless life experiences that keep giving to me day after day after day. They have forever shaped my character and values. I could share many examples. 

 The pursuit of intensity with Priority B feels less meaningful now. Now is the time for contribution, to shift more effort to A. 

However, feeling alive and being in the wild are things that I have no intention of discontinuing. I want to stay on the loose.

Finishing a three-day ski mountaineering trip near Prince William Sound, Alaska in March 2020
Finishing a three-day ski mountaineering trip near Prince William Sound, Alaska in March 2020

Still on the Loose

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This is likely the best piece of writing to be published on Hyperlite's blog in its near decade-long existence. It went up a year ago. It's worth revisiting again.

Two quotations: 

1. "no outdoor adventure, in fact no thing, can ever provide lasting happiness. I no longer have to do anything to be happy..." 

2. "Our senses evolved to thrive in wilderness, but the signals they receive are easily swamped by modern noise. I find it hard to fully arrive in a place in less than a week. The first three days are spent reconnecting with my senses, and the last three days I’m already leaning forward into re-entry."

The book (On the Loose) Brad references in the blog post is indeed good. I took photos of my favorite parts of its text, below.







Patagonia Thermal Airshed Review - Not Recommended

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Introduction

Most outdoor media only publish net positive reviews and minimize constructive comments. These behaviors stifle product innovation. 

The purpose of this constructive review of the Thermal Airshed is to improve decision-making at Patagonia regarding the design of active insulation jackets and help people find the best clothing for their needs. Patagonia sent me this jacket at no cost and with no obligation to review it. 



Specifications

  • 8.2 ounces on my scale
  • 65 gram per square meter PlumaFill continuous filament synthetic insulation
  • 1.7 ounce per square yard fabric with approximately 40 cubic feet per minute air permeability 
  • $259

Background

Where I'm coming from: I have a great passion for cold weather layering. It's taken me at least a decade to understand my physiology, the materials, and processes that create a good cold weather clothing system. I have a particular interest in active insulation synthetic insulated jackets due to their comfort and versatility. I've researched over 100 synthetic insulated jackets and used about 35. For more foundational information on synthetic insulated jackets, see the Synthetic Insulated Jacket State of the Market Report on BackpackingLight.

Thermal Airshed history: Several years ago, Patagonia released what is arguably the best shirt/softshell/active insulation jacket on the market—the Airshed. Last year, the Airshed Pro Pullover improved upon the original design with a longer length, hood, and sleeves that are easier to pull up. This fall, Patagonia released the Thermal Airshed, which adds a light layer of synthetic insulation to the Airshed fabric. Simultaneously, Patagonia discontinued the all-star Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody. In testing the Thermal Airshed, I thought to answer:

"Is the Thermal Airshed a high-performance, versatile active insulation jacket?"
The answer is no.

Performance Assessment

Despite the excellent materials, the performance of the Thermal Airshed has been disappointing. I don’t recommend it. Here are the five primary reasons:

  • No stretch. The best active insulation jacket—the Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody—has a highly air permeable stretchy knit fabric on the back and underarms. This makes it incredibly comfortable. The Thermal Airshed has no stretch. This makes it confining, generally, and especially for dynamic arm movements. Recommendation: bring back the now discontinued NALHH and improve upon its stretchy design.
  • No exterior pockets.  I found the interior drop-in pocket and interior zip pocket on the Thermal Airshed to be (1) too small and (2) located such that the pocket contents were pushed into my gut when I wore a pack with a hip belt. That is uncomfortable. I could only comfortably wear a hipbelt when the pockets were empty. Conversely, when I had my phone in one of the pockets, it banged around more than when stored in a chest pocket. Recommendation: Add an exterior chest pocket.
  • Tight fit and restrictive fit. I like an athletic, slim fit. However, the Airshed Thermal’s tight fit and pattering are too restrictive. This prevents me from wearing another light insulation layer underneath. More importantly, the fit restricts my arms. Also, a longer cut would increase warmth when your arms are overhead. In a men’s medium, the Thermal Airshed fits me such that it looks like a fancy outdoor fashion jacket—too tight fitting to be practical. Recommendation: Add more room and improve comfort with a pattern that enables comfort with a wide range of movements. 
  • Not long enough. The Thermal Airshed is cut too short for use in the mountains, for backcountry skiing, climbing, and mountaineering. It rides up, exposing my back and belly, when I raise my arms. Recommendation: make it longer.
  • Consider a hood. Hoods are not necessary for high output layers. In some cases, they are detrimental. However, there should be an option to have a hood. That is not available. Recommendation: Add a hood option.

Field Testing

I only used this jacket for about five days this fall and winter. The truth is: after wearing it for the first time, didn't want to use it because It knew it would not work well. Nonetheless, I took it for an 18-mile hike/run, a 20-mile backcountry nordic ski, a putz about ski, and on several other day trips, several runs around town, and on a few other outings where it never left my pack. It performed best for runs around town where the conditions were constant and predictable. 
Photos of me in the Thermal Airshed


Max Neale running in the Patagonia Thermal Airshed jacket
Running in the Patagonia Thermal Airshed.

Fiver degrees and calm.
It was very windy here. I was cold with the Nano-Air Light Hybrid Hoody on top of the Thermal Airshed. Alaska Range in the background!


Conclusion

I do not recommend this jacket. The Patagonia Thermal Airshed is best suited to cold-weather runners. However, even if that’s your jam, I don’t recommend it. 
What do wear instead? I'm not aware of any high-functioning, versatile active insulation jackets that I consider worth purchasing new. If you can't find the Nano-Air Light Hybrid Hoody for sale used, I suggest the Patagonia Capilene Thermal Hoody and the Airshed Pro Pullover. Yes, both. Wear the Airshed over the fleece for extra warmth and wind resistance. That combination of two time-tested, best-in-class layers offers greater performance and versatility for $20 less than the Thermal Airshed. I've been using this combination for three years and have yet to find a better duo.
Why not a warmer active insulation jacket like the Patagonia Nano Air Hoody or Arcteryx Proton LT Hoody? They are too warm for most active pursuits. I find that I only used those over my Airshed and Nano Air Light Hybrid Hoody when it's either properly cold (e.g. below zero) or when it's really windy. Even if a warmer active jacket like those may be a great choice for you (I'm skeptical), our money goes the farthest when we invest in the layers we use the most.
How did this happen!?
I hold Patagonia in the highest regard when it comes to active insulation jackets. But what happened here? How did this slip through the cracks? Regardless of the answers to these questions, Patagonia should improve upon the design of the outstanding, yet discontinued, Nano-Air Light Hybrid Hoody by adding an exterior chest pocket and a stretchy fabric that collects less snow than the original knit fabric. 

Joys of Two-Person Packrafting and the Best Two-Person Packrafts Review

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Eric, Julie, and Finn on the Sanctuary River, Denali National Park, Alaska
Eric, Julie, and Finn in the Alpacka Raft Forager. Denali National Park, Alaska. Credit Tony Perelli

Two-person packrafts are significantly underutilized today. Why? Except for a brief stint with the Alpacka Scout, I've only owned two-person packrafts since I got my first boat in 2012. For me, the benefits of a double boat far outweigh the limitations. On the rare occasion I want to use a solo boat, I borrow one. (There are also a variety of rental options.)  This post describes the joys of two-person packrafting and my evaluation of the best two-person packrafts on the market. I include affiliate links to Alpacka's site.

Why Buy a Two-Person Boat? The Joys of Two-Person Packrafting!

Conversation, teamwork, and stronger relationships

Psychologists have found that the most important driver of our long-term happiness is our relationships with other people. Also, we derive more joy from experiences than material possessions. For me,  teamwork, conversation, and the relationship with my boating partner make double boating more fun--and make me happier--than solo boating.

The Joys of Teamwork: I find it highly enjoyable and rewarding to collaborate with another person in the shared challenge of maneuvering a boat in the most efficient way through a wild landscape. You’re in it together. You work, together, in a performance that requires communication, skill, and knowledge. There’s the coordination of leaning into paddle strokes, the amount of power that goes into each stroke, and steering--together. It’s rewarding to collaborate and enjoy the journey with someone else.

Good Conversation: In solo boats, folks are often spread out on the river. I find that that it's not possible to maintain a conversation with another person. However, in a two-person boat, it’s easy to chat with your boatmate all day. Engaging in conversation with someone for hours on end while floating through a wild landscape is really great! 

Stronger Relationships: I’ve found that the teamwork and communication aspects of double boating strengthen the relationships I have with my adventure partners. Others have, too. For example, here’s how Tony Perelli describes two-person packrafting:

Going into intimidating rapids as a team offers something unique that a solo alpacka does not, a different style of teamwork and responsibility, communication, commitment and selflessness.  It's a real test and a real pleasure.

 The canoe community has referred to tandem canoeing as divorce boating...It has had the opposite effect for Becky and I but that probably has little to do with the boat and more to do with the lessons a boat can deliver.

In sum, I’ve found that two-person boats create a richer experience and more durable happiness than my time in solo boats. Even if there were no performance benefits of sharing a boat, I'd recommend them solely for the improved experience. 

Alpacka Oryx in the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
Anna and Molly, having a blast while ripping down the Hula Hula River in the Alpacka Raft Oryx. Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska.


Two-Person Packraft Performance Advantages 

More Versatile

Versatility is important because a packraft is a long-term investment. As our interests and activities change over time, a versatile boat will work well for a wide variety of activities.

Here’s a great quote from Yvonn Chouinard that describes the environmental benefits of versatile products:

The reason why we won’t face up to our problems with the environment is that we are the problem. It’s not the corporations out there, it’s not the governments, it’s us. We’re the ones telling the corporations to make more stuff, and make it as cheap and as disposable as possible. We’re not citizens anymore. We’re consumers. That’s what we’re called. It’s just like being an alcoholic and being in denial that you’re an alcoholic. We’re in denial that each and every one of us is the problem. And until we face up to that, nothing’s going to happen. So, there’s a movement for simplifying your life: purchase less stuff, own a few things that are very high quality that last a long time, and that are multifunctional.

I consider two-person boats to be more versatile than a solo boat because they are generally more capable. For example:

  • You can take other people with you. And they don't need to own their own boat. 
  • Three people can ride in the Alpacka Forager!
  • Great for dogs and family trips with kids (See Dave Chenault's FAQ post about packrafting with kids.)
  • Bring two people and food and gear for a multi-week expedition
  • Hunt a caribou or elk, and float out hundreds of pounds of meat
  • Double boats offer outstanding performance for raftpacking, which is boat-assisted walking with fewer packrafts than people (See Roman Dial's recommended strategies for raftpacking.)
  • Two-person boats are great for fishing because one person can steer while the other casts.
  • You can pick up your mother from the airport! I did this a few years ago by paddling from a summer rental home in Sitka, Alaska across the harbor, walking a few minutes to the airport, and paddling back to the house with my mother. She loved it.  


Packrafting out of the Alaska Range
I've skied and floated out of the Alaska Range twice with a two-person packraft. Both times were with experienced whitewater kayakers who didn't (at the time) own packrafts. I like that I can share my double boat with anyone, and they don't need to own or rent a packraft.
Faster

If you’re trying to move fast or are on a long-distance trip, the increased speed of a two-person boat can be significant. Two-person boats have more power (two people), less drag (less surface area touching the water), and are more aerodynamic (one bow instead of two). These factors make two-person boats faster. Speed can make a big difference on flatwater (lakes, ocean, gentle rivers). The longer the trip, the greater this difference makes. For example, the Kobuk River in the western Arctic, Alaska, drops an average of six inches per mile over the last roughly 100 miles. Facing a headwind in the rain, two people working together is easier and more enjoyable than two people in their own solo boats barely making forward progress. 

I asked Alpacka to rank the speed of their boats in flatwater with no wind and no current. Here are the results:

1st Place: Oryx. The Oryx's narrower hull shape and solid bottom floor make it the fastest packraft on flatwater. 

2nd Place: Forager. The Forager’s self-bailing bottom increases drag compared to a closed bottom.

3rd Place: Explorer 42. One generally person paddles both people. Therefore, this boat is significantly slower than the Oryx and Forager, where two people are paddling. 

Reduced Weight

Two-person boats can save up to five pounds per person compared to single boats. The table below compares the weight per person across the Alpacka Explorer 42, Forager, and Expedition. I used the Expedition for comparison because it is arguably the best all-purpose solo packraft. 

Cost Savings

A two-person boat can save you $2,000 dollars compared to buying two solo boats. For example, the Alpacka Explorer 42 and a carbon fiber kayak paddle cost only $858 per person. In contrast, two people purchasing the Alpacka Expedition and carbon fiber kayak paddles cost around $2,440 per person! 

Double Versus Single Packraft Cost Comparison
DescriptionExplorer 42ForagerExpedition x2
Boat$1,500$2,100$4,200
Paddle$215$260$680
Total Cost$1,715$2,360$4,880
Cost Per Person$858$1,180$2,440

Why Not Choose a Two-Person Boat?

Two-person boats are not for everything or everyone. Though I'm a huge fan, here are some reasons why a solo boat may be a better choice for you:

Reduced Whitewater Performance

The only double boat that can handle Class V whitewater is the Forager. Depending on your skills, two people can paddle larger volume Class III rivers in the Oryx and, if you're really good, the Explorer 42. Since safety is always a top priority, on wilderness trips I regularly portage around rapids I believe I have a good chance of tipping over. Therefore, for me, the reduced whitewater performance of a two-person boat has never been a significant drawback. 

You Can’t Go Creeking

Double boats often cannot turn fast enough to navigate small, super-fast creeks, which require instant response turning. Last fall I joined a crew of veteran Alaska packrafters on the Kings River. I was out of my comfort zone in a one-person boat and it would have been difficult to run a two-person boat through the frequent, tight Class III rapids. But that was a day trip that sought out whitewater. If we were loaded down with overnight gear, we would have walked downriver to avoid the whitewater creek, and then floated--no problem. 

What about Going Solo?

Two-person boats can be paddled by one person. Their performance depends on how much weight you have in them. Put some weight in the bow. Expect to be able to do Class II rivers solo.

Two-Person Packraft Performance Evaluation


Most Capable: Alpacka Forager

Alpacka Raft Forager

The Forager is the most capable, versatile, durable, and fun double boat. Its super stable platform and self-bailing deck make charging through rapids a blast! It can carry 1,000 pounds of whatever you want, cruise Lava Falls on the Grand Canyon, catch salmon or trout out of any river or ocean, carry a pile of friends and dogs, and is still light enough to be packed on multi-week landscape crossings. This is the best overall double boat due to its very high performance to weight ratio. The Forager weighs 8.9 pounds per person and costs $1,200 per person with paddles. See it at Alpacka’s site. 

Recommended paddle: Aqua-bound Shed Apart Carbon

Top Pick for Flatwater: Alpacka Oryx

Alpacka Raft Oryx

The Oryx is an exceptionally comfortable boat for Class I-II rivers and flatwater. Though the high center of gravity makes it tippy, it can handle Class III rapids if you have a veteran paddling team. The boat weighs 10.8 pounds. See it at Alpacka’s site. 

Recommended paddle: Aqua-Bound Shed Apart Carbon

Top Pick for Ultralight: Alpacka Explorer 42 

Kokopelli Twain

The Explorer 42 was my first packraft and remains the best at bare-bones ultralight travel. Generally, one person paddles (saving two pounds by not bringing a second paddle) and the other person takes in the views. This boat is a great choice for lightweight travel where the majority of the route is on land and you're happy to portage around Class III rapids. With one paddle and a backband for the front person, the entire setup only weighs 6.2 pounds! (Two people can also paddle kayak style, adding a second paddle.) The primary drawback to the Explorer 42 is that the person who is not paddling can get chilled, especially if you're sitting in cold water in the rain without a drysuit. It's beneficial to approach cold and wet weather trips expecting some discomfort on the water in exchange for increased comfort while carrying the boat on your back. Per person, this is the most affordable Alpacka boat. See it at Alpacka’s site. 

Recommended paddle: Aqua-Bound Shred 205

Maybe Lakes?: Kokopelli Twain

Kokopelli Twain
I haven't used this boat and I don't have a desire to. It's designed for lakes and has a removable rigid keel. Though it costs several hundred dollars less than the Alpacka Oryx, the reduced river performance isn't worth the cost savings for me. It's also heavy for a flatwater boat. 13.6 pounds. See it at the Kokopelli site.

Performance Rating
I rated the best two-person packrafts based on their whitewater performance, versatility, weight, durability, and comfort. The charts below show the overall scores and individual performance scores. Scores for the Kokopelli Twain are based on assumed performance. 

Tandem Packraft Performance ReviewTandem Packraft Performance Ratings

Specifications

Double Packraft Specifications Comparison
Alpacka ForagerAlpacka OryxAlpacka Explorer 42Kokapelli Twain
Weight (lb)13.410.88.313.6
Tube Diameter (in)13.113.111.712
Length (in)124129110122
Width (in)43413837
Capacity (lb)1000800600600
Tube Fabric420d210d210d210d

Evaluation Criteria

Comfort

Comfort can be important on longer trips with lots of time spent boating. The least comfortable position is kneeling, such as in the former Gnu and current Racing Gnu. Kneeling in a pool of water on my feet the discontinued Gnu for 12 hours a day for 11 days straight (almost all rain) was the most painful experience of my life. For example, my feet were swollen and red and it took several weeks before I could walk normally again. The good news is all of the current two-person boats for wilderness travel are incredibly comfortable in comparison! With its upright canoe-style sitting position, I found the Alpacka Oryx to be the most comfortable double boat. The Explorer 42 is the smallest two-person boat, but is still leagues more comfortable than boats that have been used by packraft pioneers. 

The chart below shows the performance rating for comfort.


Roman and Peggy Dial in the Brooks Range in 1986
Roman and Peggy Dial in the Brooks Range in 1986. Two-person packrafts are vastly more capable and comfortable than the mini setup shown here. Credit: "Packrafting!" by Roman Dial.

Packrafting in Utah
A lightweight double boat is a fantastic tool for exploring the desert southwest landscape. This early 2000s Alpacka is significantly smaller and less comfortable than all current two-person models. It didn't have a cargo fly zipper so we put a bag on the bow and another between our legs, one person paddling while sitting on the stern.



Alpacka Raft Forager with three people
Eric, Julie, and Finn enjoying the comfort and capability of the Alpacka Forager. Denali National Park. Credit: Tony Perelli. 

The Alpacka Oryx has tall seats that put you in an upright canoe paddling position, making it the most comfortable two-person packraft I've used. Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska.


Weight

Some wilderness trips are mostly hiking. Others can be fly-in straight to the river with only a small portage or two. If you want to cross a large landscape in good time, saving weight is essential. The chart below shows the weights of the four packrafts evaluated here.



Crossing the Olympic Peninsula fast and light with the Alpacka Explorer 42. This boat is surprisingly stable and powerful when the front person paddles from a kneeling position, shown here, and the rear person wraps their legs around the front person. 

Enjoying the Alpacka Raft Explorer 42 in Denali National Park.
Enjoying the Alpacka Raft Explorer 42 in Denali National Park.

Durability 

All three of these boats are durable. However, the Forager takes longevity to another level with its 420-denier fabric. The Oryx and Explorer 42 use Alpacka’s proprietary 210-denier fabric. The Kokopelli Twain uses a 210-denier fabric.

The chart below shows the performance rating for durability. 

Floating out the Arctic Coastal Plain in the Alpacka Raft Forager, Arctic National Wildlife Refuge
Floating out the Arctic Coastal Plain in the Alpacka Raft Forager, Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Alaska. The Forager's 420-denier tube fabric makes it the most durable two-person packraft on the market. 

Whitewater Performance

The Forager is the only double boat capable of serious whitewater. Its capability here exceeds my skills. The wide, stable platform is remarkably confidence-inspiring. Captaining this boat for the first time felt like driving a big truck—sitting on the back, you’re high off the water and can just charge through rapids. I’m nervous paddling whitewater in the Explorer 42 and Oryx. However, running rapids in the Forager is just plain fun! 

The chart below shows the performance rating for whitewater performance. 

Here are two of Mike Curiak's photos of Tony Perrelli and Becky King running the Grand Canyon with the Alpacka Forager. 

Tony Perrelli and Becky King running the Grand Canyon with the Alpacka Forager

Tony Perrelli and Becky King running the Grand Canyon with the Alpacka Forager

Versatility 

In descending order: Forager, Oryx, Explorer 42. The Forager is a class of its own due to its immense storage capacity and the myriad ways you can attach things to it. Also, the Forager can carry three people! Summer fun floats anyone!?

The chart below shows the performance rating for versatility.

Storage Capacity

Storage capacity was not a scoring criterion because all of the boats evaluated here have ample storage. For example, even the Explorer 42 has enough capacity (600 lb)for a multi-week ultralight expedition with two people. However, the Oryx and Forager have larger tubes that swallow huge amounts of food and gear. Further, the Forager’s increased width enables it to carry large loads inside the boat. The Forager is the boat of choice for backcountry hunting or traditional, gear-laden river trips. 


The Alpacka Forager has a manufacturer's recommended weight capacity of 1,000 pounds, making it the ideal craft for heavy loads. We paddled Class III with 500 pounds in the boat. 

With Mom in the Brooks Range

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I looked at Gaia for about 30 minutes, drew in some route options, and we started packing up at noon the day before our departure. My mother and I went backpacking in the Brooks Range in June. She wrote a brief summary, which I'm sharing below. I cleaned up some of her typos and added a few photos.

The most striking part about this trip was observing how much I have changed over the last five years. In 2015, Sarah and I went from the Haul Road to the Chukchi Sea, a trip that felt really big for me at the time. Five years and thousands of miles later, the same range feels like home. It felt normal to step off the road and wander out into the tundra, over rocky passes, and through creeks. The comforts of home. 


Mom's writing:

Old Mountain tops touch snow skies on the Dalton Highway, aka the haul road, traveling alongside the pipeline. Truckers haul loads of supplies through all seasons- see some weather, mountains & the road. We cross the arctic circle, the continental divide, pass the most northern spruce tree, and cross the mighty Yukon River.

At Coldfoot - a tiny berg with gas, diesel, & eats;  we fuel up & warm our insides with soup after 15 road hours. Then we find a suitable spot to leave the car, stash a bike for return travel to the car, & set out with backpacks & Seldom Seen Smith, our esteemed canine travel companion. Seldom bucks & complains when he dons his little pack carrying his kibbles, but once underway he’s all in.  I'm carrying my layers, sleeping gear & water- 15 lb, Max is literally carrying everything else- tent, food, his gear, & all the skillsets needed for our intended traverse of the continental divide in a fashion that I can participate in at age 66. Non-night one we spend far enough from the road to leave it behind. It’s light all night, despite cold rain showers- we wear masks to sleep. Early am arrives when Seldom makes his need known to join Max in the comfort of his down bag- which becomes an endearing ritual.

Day two we hike in dense cloud cover several hours to the first pass, which feels daunting as it becomes steep & the precip changes to snow. Seldom rolls in ecstasy at the first snowfield, & every one thereafter, showing his Alaskan character.

At the pass I’m pumped- feeling if I could do the first one that the rest was possible. 
A whole new valley appears through the snow, and down, down we go through the scree to the plush tundra- resurfacing a memory of jumping on the bed in this fun turf. The expansiveness of the landscape is so new to me- I’m learning to read distances as I once learned to read words. We have trail lunch on a tundra bench, and continue down the valley, crossing the drainage & past lower slopes of two mountains. I’m amazed that we can travel with ease in this treeless landscape. Seldom finds a caribou antler along the way – it’s old, so he is not overly interested in its dinner potential. 


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Max has years of experience finding flawless campsites, and does this every night, setting up the pyramid tent on a bench with a vista of the valley we’ve traversed & tomorrows pass. Trail runners and socks come off and we luxuriate again in the tundra over dinner.  The arctic skies clear & the temperature drops- we’re snug in our down bags & Seldom snuggles up on his foam pad & his own puffy. 26 degrees.
 
There’s little to mark the time of day in the arctic. The sun goes behind the mountains after midnight, it is briefly looking like late afternoon in the middle of the “night” & the sun is again very bright in the early morning.

The songbirds around us seem to think it’s evening around 11:30 PM and sing a delightful chorus, followed by quiet until they resume around 4 AM, though it remains sunny all of this time. The brief summer season is compressed, with spring flowers blooming right alongside fall asters, helping me appreciate even more this moment I’m sharing with my own son & Seldom.

The morning of our third day we are well situated to climb the next pass, & after several hours of steady uphill we leave the tundra for scree. Seldom circles back several times to check on me in the rear, wagging encouragement as he herds me upward. We arrive at the continental divide and yet another stunning vista of castled peaks, many hues of gray flecked with oranges and green on the lower shoulders of the mountains. We study the route ahead both visually and on Gaia GPS-we can now see the pointy bits in the distance on our route and they look gnarly to me.

In our immediate foreground is a steep scree slope with long drops, so as we begin our descent I recite the "Om hamne padme Om" prayer of protection and begin following Max and Seldom down. Shortly we need to climb up a steep section, which is collapsing below me as I ascend. For a mountaineer like Max this is not even on his radar, but for me it is dizzying and I’m feeling afraid of heights, not to mention the long drop awaiting me if I fall. Max asks “how are you doing mom?” and I respond “dizzy and terrified”. 

So when I’m in a safe spot sitting, out comes the GPS as Max re-examines our options given my obvious limitations. It’s all good, as there is another route out if we down climb the pass we just went up and go out a different drainage. It wasn’t all good in my mind, however, because I really wanted to do the circuit we had planned and was very disappointed in myself. I had a serious injury the previous year and had spent many months recuperating and gathering myself to be able to hike again. It is hard to practice to be compassionate and accepting of my own limits of fitness and age, but I resolve to dry my tears and put my best foot forward for the path ahead, and we retrace our route down the pass, with Seldom thrilled to have time to dig for ground squirrels. Once again we find our way to a valley floor with a creek singing. I’m feeling spent from my conflicted emotions yet relieved by Max’s compassion and having a safer passage ahead. We hike on for several more hours then make an early camp on another tundra bench. Max and Seldom takeoff to climb the adjacent peak-  so adept at moving in this terrain that they disappear into the lofty steeps in minutes. I begin writing this narrative in the warm afternoon sound and dive into The Spell of the Sensuous, an apt read for the Brooks range. I have time to slow down and listen deeply to landscape – the tundra birds are bathing in the trickle of water flowing near our tent. Tiny, close-cropped alpine flowers bloom everywhere. 

I’m captivated by the spiral twist of the dryas flower with its artful unfurling of downy feather-like seed structures. I’m awestruck by the myriad of species so well adapted to this unforgiving environment.  I have a new appreciation for tiny spiders, & inchworms that make their way across my page this afternoon- graced by keen awareness from my own experiences earlier this day. Then Max and Seldom bound back into camp breathless and delighted with their Camaraderie. Seldom pounces in on the caribou antler I found in the creek, getting at the marrow of this bone larger than his entire body.




Later when Max and Seldom were sleeping and spooning, I was watching the progression of light and color change on the mountains as the hours passed. Sleep evaded me while a deeper perception grew within me. The nearby creek was singing- it’s music sounded so human-made that I was convinced there must be people camping nearby, though there was not a soul within many miles of us. I knew I was witnessing shapeshifting in the soulful music of the water, The saturated bronze, mauve, shades of gray and green rock and tundra in the ancient mountains enveloping our camp.

 I felt that I was given permission to bear witness to the soul of this arctic place – precipitated by being humbled in and by this landscape that allowed this transformative experience. I was enveloped with water music yet filled with an energy of severity as the guardian spirits of these ancient mountains revealed themselves. The majestic presence of immense mountain goddesses looked through me. Erosion had softened their flanks but not their souls over eons of time, These guardians of the Brooks Range let themselves be known during that moment. I felt seen, scrutinized, and I knew that we were being allowed passage through this sacred place where waters change direction. In this still point place of being seen & known, my own old soul mountain core settle, and I slept.

In the morning, I felt sure-footed as we climbed again to the continental divide and made our way down a steep narrow creek drainage to a confluence, had last trail lunch in the spell cast by these mountains in a lush moss green meadow with ice-cold meltwater to drink- literally filling our wellsprings up with this rare place.

We hiked out the last couple of miles to the haul road, hid our packs in the willows, and proceeded to hike along the pipeline route over Atigun Pass to the car. We drove south a ways, camped on the North fork of the Koyakuk River – another perfect arctic evening. The water was low; another gift presented itself in thousands of perfectly rounded river rocks ranging in hue from bone white to black. We slept soundly under the spell woven by these mountains, their tundra, waterways, and the spirits of caribou &  brown bear. Then woke early, breakfasted in Coldfoot, hearing the story of the woman who served our food: she arrived on a trip from Southern California 17 years earlier, was smitten, flew home, sold everything, and returned permanently, having found her home place.

Homeward bound ourselves, we drove another 255 miles to Fairbanks, and continued south. Rare weather prevailed & Denali was in full splendor, her summit visible above the clouds for a long distance of our drive. Max pulled over to the side, stopped and was remembering six years earlier the anniversary of his Cassin Ridge ascent of Denali - a watershed moment in his life that rehomed him to Alaska. 

Gratitude that my body could do this trip, with deep appreciation to my son for making possible this experience.


Meet Ruby, My Electric Adventure Rig!

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Some technologies can significantly improve our quality of life. Electric vehicles are one.

Meet Ruby, my electric adventure rig! She was made in Michigan in May 2017, cruised 36,000 miles in California, and joined me on January 4, 2021. She was $40,000 new. I paid a dealership $15,000. Ruby is an absolute blast to drive, costs $2,000 a year less than a Toyota Tacoma to operate and maintain, provides an overall better experience than a gas vehicle, and has no tailpipe emissions. 

Here are some of our adventures over the last few months! 

Charging the Chevy Bolt EV in Seward, Alaska
Charging Ruby during a trip to Seward, Alaska in early February.





My philosophy on transportation

In an ideal world, we would have everything we need within a short walk or bike ride. Transportation is an inconvenience, it doesn’t make us durably happy, and it can be one of our largest expenses. I strive to make transportation fun, easy, cheap, and have a low environmental impact. Being able to bike or take public transit to work is important to me. Most of my driving is for adventures. 

A blast to drive

Once you go electric, there’s no going back. Ruby has as much torque as a V6 Toyota Tacoma. However, unlike the Tacoma, that torque is always available, instantly. She silently rockets from a stop! 

Previously, I thought driving a manual transmission was fun. One pedal driving is better.  Let your foot off the right pedal and Ruby makes energy while rapidly decelerating. It’s precise, effortless, and makes a gas vehicle feel so sloppy. Instead of wasting energy going downhills, Ruby makes energy. I only use the brakes when parking and if needed for a sudden stop in traffic. 

Comfort and time savings:

  • Ruby is nearly silent. This makes driving and sitting in traffic peaceful instead of stressful. (I didn’t realize it was mildly stressful until I drove electric.)
  • Instant electric heat, heated seats, and a heated steering wheel are so comfy.
  • No cold starts. There’s no need to wait for the engine to warm up. Just press the power button and go.
  • No more gas stations! 

66% cheaper than driving a Tacoma

Almost no maintenance

In 2019, New York City found that the city government spent between $204 and $386 maintaining each of its electric cars, compared with more than $1,600 for the average gasoline-powered car in its fleet. 

Ruby’s manual says to rotate the tires every 7,500 miles, change the cabin air filter every 22,500 miles, and change the coolant every 150,000 miles. That’s it. Just replace the battery in 15 years and keep going. 

Here’s a table that summarizes the fuel and maintenance cost for driving 10,000 miles per year using the results from the Alaska Center for Energy and Power EV Calculator and current gas prices in Anchorage. Despite the high cost of electricity in Anchorage ($0.17 per kWh), driving Ruby is 66% cheaper than a Tacoma. That’s a savings of $2,000 per year. 

Annual FuelAnnual MaintenanceAnnual Total
Chevy Bolt EV$744$260$1,004
Toyota Tacoma$1,980$1022$3,002


The chart below is from this New York Times article.


Free charging

All of the public EV charging stations here are free. When I go to Girdwood to ski and hike, I charge for free. Thus far, I’ve received almost 500 miles of free driving from that station. Similarly going north, there’s a fast charger at the Chevy dealership 1.9 miles off my typical route to Hatcher Pass. Swing by there to get 100 miles of free driving in 30 minutes. 

No tailpipe emissions

On a cold, still day outside my house I can smell vehicle exhaust from the nearby highway. Similarly, on cold days, a local primary care clinic closes its air vents because employees and patients complain of smelling exhaust inside the building. Gross! EVs have no tailpipe emissions that pollute our air. 

Part of the solution to meet Anchorage, American, and global climate goals

Using EPA average vehicle efficiency stats, driving an EV in Anchorage results in a 72% emissions reductions compared to a gas vehicle. See the image below for assumptions.



The ACEP fuel cost tool (link above) calculates that Ruby emits 62% less greenhouse gas emissions than a Tacoma if you live in Anchorage and do not have a garage. 

In Juneau, where the grid is almost all hydro, an EV gets the equivalent of 17,000 miles per gallon!! 

Also, generally, all new power generation nationwide will be renewable because it’s the cheapest. This will further reduce EV emissions over time. Even better, if I had solar panels on my roof, I’d be driving on sunshine and saving even more money. 

Q&A

What actions should I consider taking?

  1. Test drive an EV
  2. Get two quotes to add solar PV to your home
  3. Encourage your employer to get an EV and install charging stations for employees


Describe your experience with the 2012 Nissan Leaf

I owned a 2012 Nissan Leaf from June 2019 to June 2020. It only cost $5,000. But the 60-mile range was impractical. I sold it to a mechanic who said he had always wanted an electric car and was excited to have something with fewer moving parts. He uses it for his commute to work and around town.

Charging my (former) Nissan Leaf at home.

How does Ruby do in the snow and ice?

I’ve only owned front-wheel drive cars. Ruby’s super smart traction control is the best I’ve experienced. She exceeds my expectations for winter driving. I can go everywhere I want to.

What’s Ruby’s range?

Ruby’s siblings here report over 300 miles in the summer and 120 miles at -40 degrees Fahrenheit. I averaged 2.7 miles per kWh over the winter for a total range around 150 miles. This has been great for use as my only vehicle. I can go everywhere I want for weekend trips without charging up, and there are chargers if I want them. For example, I can charge for free in Girdwood on the way back from Turnagain Pass or in Wasilla or Palmer on the way back from Hatcher Pass. But, thus far, I haven’t needed to do that.

Where are the charging stations?

See plugshare.com. Here's a map of current charging stations in this part of Alaska.




Can Ruby do road trips in Alaska?

Later this summer, we’ll have fast chargers from Seward and Homer to Fairbanks. A summer road trip to Fairbanks (360 miles) would add an hour for charging. The Biden administration is expected to fund 500,0000 EV chargers across the nation later this year. Other EV manufacturers, like Rivian, are building their own nationwide charging networks. 

How much does it cost to install a charging station at home?

  • $0 if you buy a new car. Chevy is including a charger and free installation with the 2022 Bolt EUV (new model). 
  • Smart chargers, like the JuiceBox 40, can be $600. Either run the electrical yourself or pay an electrician to install an outlet.
  • My Nissan Leaf came with a charger and a 240V extension cord, which I plug into my electric dryer plug. I kept these when I sold the Leaf. 
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